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Hand Crank?


Rod L

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HUGH IS DA MAN!!  This is exactly what I did when I primed the oil pump on my rebuilt engine (milling the slots in a socket) with that big old drill motor.  This could be done and use a long-handled ratchet wrench to move the crank ever so slightly and slowly.  The crank stub on my engine took a 13/16" deep well socket to do what I needed to do.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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I did the same but I used a Farmall Tractor hand crank and bored it out to 13/16. 

 

But if all you want to do is set the point gap, why not just loosen the distributor and rotate it until the points are on the cam? Then set the points and turn the distributor back to time it.

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Edited by Morgan Wright (see edit history)
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  • 1 year later...

As usual, Brian is right on.  A Dwell Meter is essential equipment for one of these old engines.  Mine is an Actron CP7677.  I ordered it online and I think it was around $45.00 plus the shipping.  The 13/16" milled slotted socket with at least a 12" extension on a long handle ratchet will do a fine job of turning the crank so that the points can be set.  Ask me how I know all of this stuff - I've only done it twice and that's enough.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

AACA Life Member #947918

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An easier approach...

 

1.     First remove the spark plugs to ease engine rotation

2.     Jack up one rear wheel

3.     Move transmission shift lever into a gear

4.     rotate the raised wheel, or have someone do it for you while you watch for the desired location

Edited by Marty Roth (see edit history)
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Larry, 

   Thank you for the measurements.  I like to have something around for bumping a motor. The hex on the crankshaft is great when you have it.  I like the idea of raising a wheel as well.  I will post some photos when the car is in my garage.  

 

Replacement drawing attached with Larry's dimensions

 

Hugh

356496277_HandCrank.JPG.53e3ad2038f345599703db559781a380.JPG

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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On 5/3/2022 at 2:36 PM, Marty Roth said:

An easier approach...

 

1.     First remove the spark plugs to ease engine rotation

2.     Jack up one rear wheel

3.     Move transmission shift lever into a gear

4.     rotate the raised wheel, or have someone do it for you while you watch for the desired location

Hey, we tried this today and the wheel would not turn. Tried each side and then both off the ground. That just allowed both rear wheels to turn. What am I missing?

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If the engine is recently rebuilt it may be quite stiff and you are still geared up big time just from the diff, so the crank may be the only answer. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

You can buy a new crank handle from Phil in Sydney Australia. He makes them in perfect spec for about $195 AUD ($150 US). 
 

Search Vintage Standard Buick Engine Cranl Handle (note typo is needed). It’s on Gumtree which is like Greys. 
 

phil also has NOS Delco S/G one way clutch housing with distributor drive and a few other parts for vintage Buick NOS. A3E9316F-6AC3-4DE5-BC04-3F15DAC909CC.jpeg.d062f760143ede4f66a19754d6a097ed.jpeg

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  • 4 weeks later...

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