Rod L Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Want to ck/set the point gap, but don't have a hand crank (1928 Buick sport roadster). Any suggestions on what might work as a hand crank or where to get one? Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
37_Roadmaster_C Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 A very basic way to turn the crank is to put the car in the highest gear and rock it by hand. The crank will turn. You may have to juggle back and forth a bit to get to a high lobe, but you can do it. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 For easier rolling, if you want you can take the spark plugs out. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) Rod, This will get you started. Can anyone provide the dimensions from a Buick Master Hand crank so that they are available as this question comes up frequently and I will add those dimensions to my drawing. Hugh Edited April 2, 2021 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 HUGH IS DA MAN!! This is exactly what I did when I primed the oil pump on my rebuilt engine (milling the slots in a socket) with that big old drill motor. This could be done and use a long-handled ratchet wrench to move the crank ever so slightly and slowly. The crank stub on my engine took a 13/16" deep well socket to do what I needed to do. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 (edited) I did the same but I used a Farmall Tractor hand crank and bored it out to 13/16. But if all you want to do is set the point gap, why not just loosen the distributor and rotate it until the points are on the cam? Then set the points and turn the distributor back to time it. . . Edited April 14, 2021 by Morgan Wright (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oregon Desert model 45 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 I made one from a model T hand crank and an end cut from a stainless shaft. This shaft was work hardened on the outer diameter. I was able to drill down the center on the lathe and cut the slot using an angle grinder, and then weld both pieces together. Kevin 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod L Posted April 2, 2021 Author Share Posted April 2, 2021 Wow!! Thanks for all the great replies and excellent ideas, Im sure to get her points pointed in the right direction. (pun intended-- sort of). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted May 2, 2022 Share Posted May 2, 2022 Helping a friend and trying to get some items in place before his car shows up. Can anyone provide dimensions A, B, C, D for an early Buick 6 or Master hand crank? Thank you, Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Get a dwell meter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Hugh: I will go out and measure mine from the 1925 Master. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Hugh: A=.825 B=.387 C=.650 D= 1.650 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 As usual, Brian is right on. A Dwell Meter is essential equipment for one of these old engines. Mine is an Actron CP7677. I ordered it online and I think it was around $45.00 plus the shipping. The 13/16" milled slotted socket with at least a 12" extension on a long handle ratchet will do a fine job of turning the crank so that the points can be set. Ask me how I know all of this stuff - I've only done it twice and that's enough. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 (edited) An easier approach... 1. First remove the spark plugs to ease engine rotation 2. Jack up one rear wheel 3. Move transmission shift lever into a gear 4. rotate the raised wheel, or have someone do it for you while you watch for the desired location Edited May 3, 2022 by Marty Roth (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 (edited) Larry, Thank you for the measurements. I like to have something around for bumping a motor. The hex on the crankshaft is great when you have it. I like the idea of raising a wheel as well. I will post some photos when the car is in my garage. Replacement drawing attached with Larry's dimensions Hugh Edited May 4, 2022 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted May 8, 2022 Share Posted May 8, 2022 On 5/3/2022 at 2:36 PM, Marty Roth said: An easier approach... 1. First remove the spark plugs to ease engine rotation 2. Jack up one rear wheel 3. Move transmission shift lever into a gear 4. rotate the raised wheel, or have someone do it for you while you watch for the desired location Hey, we tried this today and the wheel would not turn. Tried each side and then both off the ground. That just allowed both rear wheels to turn. What am I missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted May 8, 2022 Share Posted May 8, 2022 Was it in High gear? you can't turn it in first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted May 8, 2022 Share Posted May 8, 2022 It was in 1st. Will retry tomorrow in high gear. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted May 9, 2022 Share Posted May 9, 2022 Tried today in 3rd. Still won't move. Does it matter which wheel you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted May 10, 2022 Share Posted May 10, 2022 If the engine is recently rebuilt it may be quite stiff and you are still geared up big time just from the diff, so the crank may be the only answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted May 10, 2022 Share Posted May 10, 2022 Remove the sparkplugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buick Downunder Posted May 28, 2022 Share Posted May 28, 2022 You can buy a new crank handle from Phil in Sydney Australia. He makes them in perfect spec for about $195 AUD ($150 US). Search Vintage Standard Buick Engine Cranl Handle (note typo is needed). It’s on Gumtree which is like Greys. phil also has NOS Delco S/G one way clutch housing with distributor drive and a few other parts for vintage Buick NOS. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted May 29, 2022 Share Posted May 29, 2022 That crank looks exactly like the original one that I have. Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant L. Meredith Posted June 22, 2022 Share Posted June 22, 2022 Rock10, was the brake handle released? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 Yes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 You don't need to turn the engine, if all you want to do is set the point gap, just loosen the distributor and rotate it until the points are on the cam. Then set the points and turn the distributor back to time it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rock10 Posted June 23, 2022 Share Posted June 23, 2022 We were setting the valves. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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