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Stewart vacuum canister


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I am looking for someone to rebuild or replace a Stewart vacuum canister from a 1930 Willys sedan. I spoke to someone in New York but he won't do a 4 screw top, only 8 screw. Pics included. 20210326_131343.thumb.jpg.6a8f3acdde603839b9cc9b5542b7a527.jpg

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Never seen a 4 screw before. Most likely, if it hasn't been hacked at, a good cleaning and a new gasket and it will work fine. I just did the unit on my 1917 that sat for 82 years.........cleaned it, new gasket, its been prefect ever since. Not much to them.

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I agree with Ed.  I put one of the larger units back into service last year. It had been dormant for decades. As long as there are no vacuum leaks, the flapper seats, the float floats and the fuel lines from the tank are tight it should be good to go. I gave it a good cleaning , replaced the gasket (tapped out with a small ball peen hammer) and gently cleaned-up the flapper valve and seat and it works as advertised.

 

Here it is photo of it installed but not all plumbed up which was a chore since both the outlet from the fuel tank and the carb itself are on the opposite side from the vacuum tank. 

 

IMG_0313.jpg.67ad27dbc4bdb52f46817354f28f2902.jpg

 

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It's one of the most reliable fuel delivery systems ever invented. 99% of the complaints about them are the result of being dirty.

If the top is damaged, can you plug 4 of the holes in an 8-hole top? If the holes are evenly spaced - and the same distance from the center - you just have 4 extra holes. I'm guessing the gasket would seal them off but it's been a very long time since I rebuilt one.

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I agree with the previous comments, I have had them in my 1920's cars and they work fine.  What is wrong with yours? You refer to the cannister, does it leak?  Have you had it working?

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I have a 4 screw vacuum canister on my 28 Whippet.  I soaked all the parts in vinegar for a few days to clean the passages the needles travel in. I had to solder a few holes on the inner tank and made new gaskets (2) and reassembled. Make sure you do not use any silicone based sealer on the gaskets. Be sure the air vent is open too.

Have you opened the canister?  Is the float lever operated? Mine is NOT. Mine is a bell shaped float that is supported by a wire. The float is tricky to align, so if you are going to rebuild yours, post a few photos of the inside tank and float. Early Dykes manuals show in detail the workings of many different types of vacuum canisters. If you need info, let me know.

 

There are members of the Willys - Knight - Overland - Registry that offer rebuilding services too.

Visit their website - WOKR.ORG   and go to the forum. Click on the PS&L (Parts & Service List) link on the top of the page to find vendors that might help.

If you're not a member of WOKR, consider joining to gain info from other Willys owners.

 

Good Luck

 

Bill

Edited by wmsue (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

The 4 screw top type vacuum canister was also used on the smaller Chevrolets and probably other smaller cars. It is a stamped metal top whereas the 8 screw Stewarts have cast tops. There is a fellow in Texas who ended up with the remains of Mike Larsens tanks and parts. He has some parts, and is going to offer them in a rebuilding service.

 

Art

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