Jump to content

1925 Buick fan hub


KEK

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone -

 

I filled my fan hub with oil as per the instructions in the shop manual and it slowly leaked out but didn’t noticed it until my fan belt got oiled. =-).  Does anyone know if these hubs can be rebuilt so they don’t leak. Maybe solder around the edge?

 

Also, please look at the zerk in the hub. Does this look original to you. I don’t know how to add oil to this type of zerk, it looks like its made for grease. I just removed it and squirted oil in the hub with my oil can. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Ken

 

668D99C7-5E76-4B3B-A709-CC41A1A8870B.jpeg

9066B166-2DB8-4F5C-8EB1-B6AB8A30FE09.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken, 

   This is the maintenance free upgrade.  There is a felt seal on that old style hub and the felt is probably wore out.  You can't really get an oil seal to fit it either.  Sorry that oil got all over the belt and the engine, but that's how those keep everything lubricated.  You can have this modern version made locally, or Tony Bult from Wisconsin has made some of these in the past and may still have some.       Hugh

454584900_FanHub1.thumb.JPG.96fd5387f3178d4ede82ffec34a741b6.JPG79709569_FanHubConversion.thumb.jpg.280290e50436eae6207e5bd96e4eb2f4.jpg803253424_fanhub-3Kevin.thumb.jpg.416601b408d3ad6cfceb0c041a266a75.jpg

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I have also discussed on my "Fan Hub Makeover".

 

DSCF1721.thumb.JPG.ca27a1383d3bcb15975675ecd47a99bd.JPG   DSCF1720.thumb.JPG.d00d34c847b0c30c6aba4603da57b715.JPG

First I machined and fit bushings to compensate for the wear in the housing and the shaft. The better solution was the sealed bearing unit. Afterward the new belt was getting oily again. It was the camshaft/fan pulley seal that was leaking.

DSCF1725.thumb.JPG.401f7c4f252bdeb0d3a029212da79e11.JPG   1530016726_frontpulleysealinstalled20362.thumb.jpg.de51ff530ab215e64397997a41b3af75.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Larry is there a post titled “fan hub makeover”.  I did a search but didn’t find it.  I like the idea of the sealed maintenance free bearing.  I think that is what Hugh has in his design drawing. I will probably go that route since I dont have the lathe or skill like you guys to make my own.

 

It sounds like I need to check my camshaft/pulley fan pivot bushing.  Is that the seal shown in the last photo?  If so, I should be fine as the engine had a complete rebuild by a very competent engine builder.

 

Is it normal for you to be able to easily hand slip the belt on without having to pry it on?  Mine is loose on the fan and camshaft/pulley that I can easily slip it on by hand. It came off only once. I slipped it back on and it hasn’t came off since but I havn’t been able to drive the car more than 5 or 10 minutes at a time and low speed. It hasn’t overheated yet. The fan blade turns but as loose as it is I would think it will slip at higher RPMs.  I am thinking of spraying some belt dressing on it. That stuff is real sticky and maybe it will give the belt some traction. Do you have any suggestions on upgrading to a modern belt?

 

Thanks for your input,

Ken

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken

The first photo shows the old felt seal (brown colored) after removal, and the new modern type seal (black) before installation. The new seal is inexpensive and should provide a much better seal than a felt seal.

I installed a modern serpentine fan belt number 325K9 which is 32.2" length x 1.26" wide. I am not sure if this is the optimal size or not, but the fan seems to be positioned in the correct place. 

The price is about 1/5 of a leather belt and should not be as slippery either. 

Kevin 

cam seals.jpg

325k9 poly belt.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken

I don't know if Standard is same or not. I underestimated the correct length the first time and ordered a 305K9 which was too short and positioned the fan blade in the wrong spot.  Oops !

You should try to get an accurate measurement of the original and find a match.     The belt numbering system appears to use inside diameter and the listed diameter appears to be outside diameter which makes selecting the correct size a little confusing. 

305k9 = 30.5 x 1.26 

325k9 = 32.5 x 1.26

These belts are available from most online auto parts sources. 

Kevin 

2021-03-14 22_49_04-D&D PowerDrive 325K9 Poly V Belt, Rubber, 9_ Amazon.com_ Industrial & Scientific.jpg

Edited by Oregon Desert model 45
edit (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken, 

   "Then and Now" also sells leather belts.  I like the look of a leather belt because it is another conversation piece, but they do stretch over time.  The rubber belt is one and done.  They only need light pressure to keep the belt on.  Interesting design using no groove on the bottom pulley and it has a convex surface.  The fan is only necessary for low or no speed operation.  At higher speeds the radiator is overwhelmed by the air flow and the fan is superflous.   It is OK if the belt slips some.   The Master gets a spring to tension the belt.  Us Standard owners have to maintain enough but not too much pressure on the belt using the adjustment bolt.  Hugh

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kevin -

Thanks for the belt numbers. I’ll try and find one that I can just barely slip on by hand when the fan is centered on the radiator.

 

Hugh -

I agree I like the leather belt for originality so I am going to get a rubber belt as a spare and that I can drive around on. For car shows and car club meetings I will slip on my leather belt. It’s pretty stretched out.  I can push it in about 1-inch in the center. Please see the attached photo.  Is this the adjusting bolt?  So, if my leather belt is stretched, and I try and tighten it then the fan blade may be in the wrong location?  I think this is what Kevin was explaining.  I may need to get a new leather belt and a rubber belt both the same length.

 

I was wondering if there was enough air flow through the radiator to keep it cool at speed because my fan belt is clearly slipping at higher RPMs. That explains a lot. Very cool. 

 

Thank you,

Ken

 

B1F8F76A-F631-4AC8-B447-14086BCA6F47.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ken, 

    On these systems, the pivot bolt and the tensioning bolt are one in the same.  It only takes light tension on the belt.  The fan is only for low speed operation.  This is a basic as it gets.  No fan shroud to improve efficiency.  Yes the fan works better in the center of the radiator.  This does not get as tight as a V belt.    Hugh 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...