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1950 buick Roadmaster convertible


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I recently acquired this barn find out of Ohio,  Not sure what to do with it. Super solid sheet metal all around. All parts present including all top mechanics  Motor turns.  Front floor pans are rusted through.  Rat rod?  Restore?  Just get it running?

 

 

 

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Drop it at my house! I know what to do with it! That car is beautiful!

Seriously though, get it running as is and enjoy it. Then gradually find your hearts desire of what to do with it. Personally I'd restore it with a few modern touches for better drivability. Then drive the wheels off it.

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I'm leaning towards getting it running and enjoying it, as is, for a while.  I think I'll let the full restoration to the next caretaker.  I'm just finishing up a Rat Rod experience right now.  Another 1950 Roadmaster, a 4 door I initially bought for parts.  Didn't use many, then it got out of control!  Used the 1950 body and dash, placed on a 1992 Roadmaster sedan frame I had to stretch 14", then dropped in a 455 from a 1970 Riviera.  I'm using the 1992 interior.  Air bagged it. Electric exhaust cutouts, other cool stuff.  Named it Ratmaster. IMG_9283.jpg.54d9fa09bfa69626658aceaf21acbd51.jpg

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I have given a couple of presentations over the years highly recommended what we call "Component Restoration". Don't take anything apart which will disable the car for more than a couple of days. Make it Stop, Steer, and Start in that order.

 

Special tool box:

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In two or three weeks I will be lowering the top on my convertible until fall, so there's an idea where I prioritize that part of it.

 

If you can get through the first five years without tearing it all apart you have a real good chance of enjoying it for a long time. Take it apart and you are looking at 300 $100 jobs to get it back together on the low side. 30,000 bucks.

 

"Stood in the garage looking at all the parts spread out on the floor, but it felt like they were hanging over my head."

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  • 5 weeks later...

Clear coat nothing. It looks so fake. Just make it safe and reliable, then drive it! I may be a little biased, but this car has no clear coat and stays outside with a car cover. No noticeable change in paint leftovers in years.

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Brown rust is stable rust, orange rust is active rust. 

Edited by Rusty Heaps (see edit history)
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Maybe we agree, clear coat may not be the correct terminology.  Anything to stop the active rust. Definitely not shiny. Some type of coating that will stop the rust, then you dont have a ton of money in it, you can sort out the mechanicals and have enjoyment if you have other garage queens.

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Then there is the linseed oil treatment.  Seems a little too temporary but if you want to go with original patina it's a way to see at it's best it before spraying anything permanent on the car.  Anyone tried it?  It looks interesting but I don't want a bunch of raccoons licking my car at night ;)

 

https://bangshift.com/general-news/videos/patina-shine-without-clearcoat-how-to-use-linseed-oil-to-bring-out-some-gleam/

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On my other 1950 Roadmaster - see pic early in the stream - I'm using something called "Gibbs Brand".  I heard about it on a ratrod forum.  Protects the metal from further rusting, makes the old paint "pop" out, needs to be reapplied about twice a year ( I use it like a detail spray), it is NOT oil or silicone based so you can paint over it later if you wish.  That last point sold me.  Do no harm!

 

Tom

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