Tom Kromer Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 \\\\\ I recently acquired this barn find out of Ohio, Not sure what to do with it. Super solid sheet metal all around. All parts present including all top mechanics Motor turns. Front floor pans are rusted through. Rat rod? Restore? Just get it running? 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Rides Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 Drop it at my house! I know what to do with it! That car is beautiful! Seriously though, get it running as is and enjoy it. Then gradually find your hearts desire of what to do with it. Personally I'd restore it with a few modern touches for better drivability. Then drive the wheels off it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelfish Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 Depends on your time and financial resources but whatever you do don’t rat rod it. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 This is one great car to do anything with. Personally I would restore it to original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 If you are interested in rat rodding one, I’ll trade you. A ‘53 Special 2dr sedan for the convertible! A win for both of us! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Kromer Posted March 4, 2021 Author Share Posted March 4, 2021 I'm leaning towards getting it running and enjoying it, as is, for a while. I think I'll let the full restoration to the next caretaker. I'm just finishing up a Rat Rod experience right now. Another 1950 Roadmaster, a 4 door I initially bought for parts. Didn't use many, then it got out of control! Used the 1950 body and dash, placed on a 1992 Roadmaster sedan frame I had to stretch 14", then dropped in a 455 from a 1970 Riviera. I'm using the 1992 interior. Air bagged it. Electric exhaust cutouts, other cool stuff. Named it Ratmaster. 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted March 4, 2021 Share Posted March 4, 2021 I have given a couple of presentations over the years highly recommended what we call "Component Restoration". Don't take anything apart which will disable the car for more than a couple of days. Make it Stop, Steer, and Start in that order. Special tool box: In two or three weeks I will be lowering the top on my convertible until fall, so there's an idea where I prioritize that part of it. If you can get through the first five years without tearing it all apart you have a real good chance of enjoying it for a long time. Take it apart and you are looking at 300 $100 jobs to get it back together on the low side. 30,000 bucks. "Stood in the garage looking at all the parts spread out on the floor, but it felt like they were hanging over my head." 5 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 Clear coat it in satin, then fix up the mechanicals and drive the s..t out of it. You will have tons of fun, and appreciate/preserve your other rides as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lancemb Posted April 4, 2021 Share Posted April 4, 2021 This looks like an excellent restoration candidate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Heaps Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 (edited) Clear coat nothing. It looks so fake. Just make it safe and reliable, then drive it! I may be a little biased, but this car has no clear coat and stays outside with a car cover. No noticeable change in paint leftovers in years. Brown rust is stable rust, orange rust is active rust. Edited April 5, 2021 by Rusty Heaps (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Century Eight Posted April 5, 2021 Share Posted April 5, 2021 Maybe we agree, clear coat may not be the correct terminology. Anything to stop the active rust. Definitely not shiny. Some type of coating that will stop the rust, then you dont have a ton of money in it, you can sort out the mechanicals and have enjoyment if you have other garage queens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan O Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 Then there is the linseed oil treatment. Seems a little too temporary but if you want to go with original patina it's a way to see at it's best it before spraying anything permanent on the car. Anyone tried it? It looks interesting but I don't want a bunch of raccoons licking my car at night https://bangshift.com/general-news/videos/patina-shine-without-clearcoat-how-to-use-linseed-oil-to-bring-out-some-gleam/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Kromer Posted April 13, 2021 Author Share Posted April 13, 2021 On my other 1950 Roadmaster - see pic early in the stream - I'm using something called "Gibbs Brand". I heard about it on a ratrod forum. Protects the metal from further rusting, makes the old paint "pop" out, needs to be reapplied about twice a year ( I use it like a detail spray), it is NOT oil or silicone based so you can paint over it later if you wish. That last point sold me. Do no harm! Tom 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Kromer Posted September 20, 2022 Author Share Posted September 20, 2022 Got her running!!! After a 40 year sleep in an old barn, she's running!!!! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y-JobFan Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 (edited) One of 2964, so there are/were not many out there even when new. Edited September 20, 2022 by Y-JobFan (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted September 20, 2022 Share Posted September 20, 2022 Now that it is running there are a couple of things I would recommend. Check your compression. You may find four cylinders that read low. Those would be the ones that rested low in the bore where the wear was minimal they would have been tight in the ring lands and sticking. They should loosen up after 100-200 miles of easy driving. The rod bearings would be my greatest concern. People don't do a fresh oil change when they leave a car to set for a decade or more. Acids in the residual oil on the bearing surface can etch the bearing surface and corrosion to a depth of 0.001" can be wiped off on that first start. Add that to the tolerances when parked and you could risk damage to the crank. I would drop the pan and check the rod bearing clearance on a few. Replace them all before it becomes urgent. The mains could stay undisturbed until they talk to you". I am in a similar situation with a '48 Chrysler Saratoga. The engine was stuck. I used oils to free it up. and can get to turn freely about half a revolution with one hand and a flywheel turner. Then it stops.firmly. I checked to see if a valve was stuck open and apparently not. I could be forcing an accumulation of scale to that point. In any case I have decided to rebuild or replace the engine since I know I would not be happy with all the issues of a long term unprepared engine. This car was modified 25 to 30 years ago so I am working with a small block Chevy should I decide to move forward. Many times over the years I have heard the old "we put in a hot battery, some fresh gas, and she started right up". I still cringe when I hear it. A few questions to those stories usually end up revealing it didn't run long after or was disassembled for the fabled "restoration". You have to understand a car with a minor recommissioning is in a very delicate condition and needs to be treated as such. 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Kromer Posted September 26, 2022 Author Share Posted September 26, 2022 I knew NOT to try a quick start up. This is the fourth 1950 Buick I've worked on over the years. Oil pan was removed and everything checked. Old oil actually looked pretty clean. Rotating parts were tight, not sloppy, and moved easily. Luck??? Oil pickup cleaned out. Timing gears and chain replaced. Rebuilt 1952 intake/exhaust with rebuilt 4br was installed. Rebuilt starter. Converted to 12 volt. Starter was used to crank engine to verify good oil flow and operation of all lifters before a live start was attempted. Rewired the entire car with a new YNZ wiring harness. I have about 170 miles on it thus far. Great ccompression and no oil burning noticed in exhaust. Installed a new gas tank, replaced entire gas line, new filter and electric fuel pump. Also rebuilt/replaced entire suspension and brake system. Recored radiator. She's on the road!!!!! I beleive she was parked for several of the items I fixed, the cracked exhaust manifold/radiator/starter and awful carb being major issues, not to mention a wiring harness patched with scotchtape in places!!!!! I'm replacing the entire hydraulic system for the window, seats and top with 12 volt components. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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