Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 I will do what you suggested. I really appreciate your comments. I first want to see if we can get the engine running. You telling me ballpark figures, helps do much. I wanted to leave it to one of my sons but they don’t have room for it . I would like to get it in running condition so each of my children and grandchildren can drive it around town and then sell it. I will get more pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 If you can find an old, retired mechanic who is familiar with fifties Fords he would be the best to get your car running. The secret is to go over the engine carefully, checking and diagnosing, and not change anything unless it needs to be changed. Too often amateurs tear the car up, replace all kinds of parts unnecessarily like points, coil, carburetor etc then wonder why it won't run. The oldest man in the world couldn't tell you that, once you have everything messed up all you can do is start from scratch and do EVERYTHING over until you are sure it is right. If you start with an untouched engine you assume it ran when parked, and check everything one step at a time and if you have gas, spark, and compression all happening at the right time the engine will start and run. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski Posted March 24, 2021 Author Share Posted March 24, 2021 Engine is not stuck!! Yippee! Now to cleaning parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Anyone know what the torque specs for my 54 Ford 239 Y block oil pan nuts and for the valve cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 When I went to get things for it they told me the engine is aCrestline. Was that an older model Ford? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 Yes, Couldn't tell you how they figured that out though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 I agree with F & J and Rusty about it all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 Thank you everyone! Does anyone know where I can get a sample of oil from the pan tested for the small pieces of metal that are in it that maybe would tell us where the metal is coming from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryB Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 3 minutes ago, Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski said: Thank you everyone! Does anyone know where I can get a sample of oil from the pan tested for the small pieces of metal that are in it that maybe would tell us where the metal is coming from? How small is small? Shiny fragments in the oil that just sparkle or actual pieces that you can feel between your fingers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1957Birdman Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 The torque specs are as follows: Rocker Arm Cover - 2 to 2.5 ft. lbs. Oil Pan to Crankcase - 12 to 15 ft. lbs. Crestline was the top of the line 1954 Ford. The Mainline was the base car. Both could have the 239 CID engine. Lew Bachman 1957 Thunderbird 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lynn Aungst Kiedrowski Posted March 26, 2021 Author Share Posted March 26, 2021 I felt a couple small pieces about an 1/8” size Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 If you are curious about metal in the pan you can wash the oil away with cleaning solvent (hardware store paint thinner is good) rinse it around, let the metal settle and pour off the solvent, then use a magnet to pick up any steel and iron fragments. Whatever is left will be non ferrous, either aluminum or bearing metal (white) or bronze or brass (yellow). Any metal in the pan is not good. I think I would put the pan back on, fill with oil and get it running. If it has good oil pressure and no bangs or knocks it's good to go. Metal in the pan could mean anything or nothing. Depending how much there is. 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dennisspeaks Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 On 3/3/2021 at 2:54 PM, Marty Roth said: This is what I want to do to my 39 Series 61, some MMO. I hear it's different putting it in the flathead engines? It may not be all that bad. Pull the sparkplugs and see if the engine turns over, either on the starter with a fresh battery, or by hand at the flywheel or fan. If not, then add Marvel Mystery Oil to each cylinder and let it sit - maybe a day or longer, checking again from time to time if it turns. Once it turns, then do an oil change and check all normal tune-up items. Many times, an enginewill surprise you, and a great many Continentals V-12s were subject to an engine swap, sometimes for a Ford or Mercury V-8, and even for Cadillac or Oldsmobile V-8 engines. I recall comments from years gone by where there were claims of the original engine being such a poor choice that certain engine swaps were perfectly acceptable by some clubs. Replacing would be my last choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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