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Steering wheel disassembly and removal. 1930


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I'm to the point that I'm going to tear into the steering gear box. It feels like it needs attention.

I need to know how to take the horn button and other items off so the steering wheel can be pulled. 

Any suggestions would be apprciated. 

I'd hate to break something. 

662008761_steeringwheel.thumb.jpg.be16f34285f663499d8fe988cc65ec9a.jpg 

Edited by Fossil (see edit history)
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You will have to remove the light switch at the base of the column. After that, you should be able to pull the horn button and inner wire tube from the column. You may have to drop the steering column from the column drop under the dashboard in order to take the tube all of the way out of the column.

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That's exactly the information I as looking for. Thank you for your reply. That's the only part left in redoing the steering and suspension. Sure rides nice now. 

Hope life is getting back to normal for you folks. Bet there is a lot of building going on in your town. 

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Can not tell if you have an outer wire tube . If so need to release it at bottom also . Note wheel maybe be on harder than you think . Found it easier to drill and tap steering wheel for modern puller . The pulling on the plastic  fractored the wheel . I repair nicely with Q-bond system .

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Hi Tom and thanks for jumping in. I think John got it right as I don't remember there being any external wiring tube. The horn wire runs down the center of the column. 

I'm not looking forward to pulling the steering wheel. The wheel already has cracks near the hub and really don't want to make things worse. I'm going to look into the Q bond as I used JB weld on another vintage wheel and that didn't work out real well. It will be next week before I get to it and just hoping to have a plan before then. 

Thanks guys and I hope your both staying healthy. 

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Thanks .  I meant the second rod is over the first and on my truck controls the throttle . I attach some pics of my pulling . You can see how broke my wheel was . Drilled 1" deep blind 1/4 x 20 tapped holes . Used simple puller came right off . The Q-bond comes with black and grey powder . I first glue tight cracks . The super glue sucked right in . Then did cracks , building a little at time . Decide to stop short of top for effect to show original patina . The wheel is solid now . The build up goes quick, as glue sets in 5 to 7 seconds . Add powder using fine tools and drip glue on wait 10 seconds , repeat . 

   PS  You -tube shows Q-bond usage .

sw1.thumb.jpg.89befbd1288be8d26cb2c2a9e44fd11d.jpgsw2.thumb.jpg.e097a56b80d9ce2011183563faa4ed8e.jpg

Edited by ArticiferTom
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Looks like you removed the column from the top of the gear box and pulled it through the firewall into the cab. I'll have to check and see if the hole is big enough for that nut on the column to fit through. Be nice if I could do that. 

Your idea of drilling the hub and using a regular puller is a good one and I might just start with that. I have some bearing pullers that might work also. I'll have to check on that.

Good photos and your wheel turned out nice, thanks.

 

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10 hours ago, Fossil said:

Looks like you removed the column from the top of the gear box and pulled it through the firewall into the cab. I'll have to check and see if the hole is big enough for that nut on the column to fit through. Be nice if I could do that. 

Your idea of drilling the hub and using a regular puller is a good one and I might just start with that. I have some bearing pullers that might work also. I'll have to check on that.

Good photos and your wheel turned out nice, thanks.

 

I actually pulled the whole gear box through cowl . But require removing clutch pedal and floor and brake master party and a little religion . If was to do over and did not have engine pans in . Would drill and tap to pull while in vehicle .

  You could draw column only out . But require splitting gear box in place no so good for reinstall . 

  See PS on above post

Edited by ArticiferTom
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The correct puller , I fear  would put to much pressure on fragile fractured composite . A homemade of same design, further damaged mine . So decide to drill as others have . Worked easy .

  I do like your pic of push rod ends . Had to use the nut and various washers to protect threads and give push surface . In background of my pic you see another wheel with whole center broke out and metal inside sawed to split . It was donor steering unit so was not trying to save . Had I used drill tap . I think I may had been able to save . Is was fairly rusted on though .

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Posted (edited)

I put about 50 miles on June Bug today and the ride is much improved. Thinking the steering gear box can wait for now. Stopped at a glass place to see about getting the glass in the rear doors replaced with safety glass before installing the door panels. 

The motor starts instantly and runs good but is noisy. Around town at 35 or less you wouldn't even notice it but on the road at 45 or higher it gets to sounding kind of bad. I have another engine here that looks really good but am told that when turning the crank pully over the crankshaft doesn't turn. Any idea if there is suppose to be a key in the crankshaft for this pully? It almost looks like there is some kind of rubber between the the hub of the pulley and the outside of it. 

 

 

Edited by Fossil (see edit history)
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Some gorilla at some point overtightened the nuts that hold the brake drum to the backside of the the wooden spokes. That crushed the wood and warped the drum. I thought I had the drum straightened out but after using it the brakes are surging again. So when ambition allows I'm going to have to install one of the wheels and the drum I got from you. The next time I have it up in the air I'm going to have to check the rear drums and make sure I'm shooting in the right direction before I tear into the front one. . 

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