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1954 Brake Drum Specs?


MrEarl

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So I've got someone in California wanting to buy a set of Roadmaster front brake drums. I've a set that came with a car that was being restored and appear to be in good condition with plenty of meat left. I've priced them to him at $125 for the set which I think is fair considering what shipping may turn out to be. I just want to make sure what I'm sending is good so I have a   Brake Resetting Gauge   ordered and have pulled up these specs.

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So my question is, when I get the tool and measure the inside diameter, if the surfaces are good with no major scores or grooves, which they are, anything less than 12.060 should be good to go, right?

 

This one appears to have been cut already.

 

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no bad grooves in the other, but should be turned probably?

 

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Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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I also agree with 12.060" .

 

Whether they need turning or not is hard to tell. Cast iron moves around a tiny bit when sitting, and can also warp from the heat of use. There is a good chance the smooth one will also need a skim.

 

 

 

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OK, so according to my new little brake resetting gauge they both measure 12 1/16", measured twice each at 90*.  Somebody check me on this but if the decimal equivalent of 1/16 is .0625 then 12.0625  is greater than the allowable of 12.060 as discussed above, making these very borderline for having turned. Am I right ? Hopefully not as they seem to have plenty of thickness left.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

That's how I read it. Any shop near by that will mic the drums and confirm your findings? 

 

Possibly Chris, but the gauge I'm using is pretty simple to read and I've measured several times. Based on the above chart, I'm sorta surprised at the seemingly small difference in the diameter of new drums IE 1.997-12.003 and what is considered too much IE 12.063. I mean .0625 is only 1/16", I guess my question is how much drum is removed with a typical brake drum turning, surely more than 1/32" (half of 1/16")?  I've got to be missing something here, what is it?

 

On 2/24/2021 at 9:43 AM, 60FlatTop said:

Present the facts and never deny the buyer an opportunity to make the decision.

 

 

 Sounds good in theory but often doesn't work for me, no matter what pictures and detailed facts I provide. I'm leaning toward jus putting these in the metal pile.

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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The theory is my general guideline, especially with good items that someone might throw away making their own decision that it is no good.

 

When I know something is borderline or in questionable condition I will usually raise the price and stay firm for two reasons. 1: They may be back whining because they didn't listen or just expect a cradle to grave guarantee. 2. The higher the price the better the chance they will think harder, or just think period. If you sell something so cheap that it's a "no brainer" you can bet it will be that, literally. The buyer not using their brain seems to be the seller's responsibility, so go  ahead boot the price up another $25 each. Then you are loading things to your side and maybe, just maybe, the buyer will give it more consideration.

 

Personally, I would use them, Of course I drive on biased tires, don't have an aircraft cockpit full of gauges, dual master cylinder, or any of those other peer group necessitated "upgrades". They would be fine.

 

Maybe I should write a book about selling stuff to men over 50 in the second millennium. Could sell the movie rights.

 

Bernie

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23 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

Possibly Chris, but the gauge I'm using is pretty simple to read and I've measured several times. Based on the above chart, I'm sorta surprised at the seemingly small difference in the diameter of new drums IE 1.997-12.003 and what is considered too much IE 12.063. I mean .0625 is only 1/16", I guess my question is how much drum is removed with a typical brake drum turning, surely more than 1/32" (half of 1/16")?  I've got to be missing something here, what is it?

 

 

 

 Sounds good in theory but often doesn't work for me, no matter what pictures and detailed facts I provide. I'm leaning toward jus putting these in the metal pile.

 

It all depends on the shape of the inside diameter the drum that determines the amount of material that will need to be removed.  If these are in round one very shallow pass will be enough. It is a crap shoot really.   I don't think you are missing anything concerning your calculations or thoughts on turning these drums.

 

If you are in doubt, scrap them.  

 

Like Bernie, I would turn and burn these drums on my own car.  Call me crazy.  

 

 

 

       

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Yea, I'm with y'all, I mean looking at how thick this good old made in the USA iron is, they measure out to be round as best as i can measure, the lack of any deep scoring or grooves, I see no reason they can't be turned at least one more time. So I'll  "Present the facts and never deny the buyer an opportunity to make the decision" 

Thanks all.

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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31 minutes ago, MrEarl said:

Says he's going with new, I wished him luck. Thought about using them on the front of the Century but that would require swapping backing plates also, so, anybody here need them. $100 plus shipping.

If I have this right there are only 2 drums, yes?

front ?

thanks again,

 

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On 3/2/2021 at 3:35 PM, MrEarl said:

Says he's going with new, I wished him luck. Thought about using them on the front of the Century but that would require swapping backing plates also, so, anybody here need them. $100 plus shipping.

 

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