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A friend and I have dragged a 1922 Dodge 4 out of a shipping container, where it has sat for about 15 years. We will go through everything before trying to fire it up, but have some initial questions:

1) best source for owner's manual and service manual? (preferably online to print ourselves)

2) after we have taken the sump off and cleaned/inspected it, how much oil does it take? I believe it is 5-6 quarts. 

3) any Dodge 4 peculiarities we need to watch for? We are familiar with Oliver tractors and 1920s Hudsons/Essexes, but are keen to benefit from the wisdom of those who have been there and done that with Dodges of the era:)

 

Thanks in anticipation.

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Contact the AACA library for a copy of your manual. It's only a few dollars. The DB Club stores our literature there. If you go to the DBC website you can determine which manual you need. First with the serial number determine what month it was built. Then, you want the manual printed RIGHT before your car was built. For some years there are as many as 4 different manuals. DBs did not wait to change at year end. If they decided something was better they changed at any time. When there were significant changes they printed a new manual. For example, your car COULD be positive or negative ground, that was about when it was changed. Rule of thumb is if the horn button is on the door it's negative and on the steering wheel it's positive. Yours COULD be the 15th edition. It will serve as a repair manual and have the amount of oil and how to check it, drive it, maintain it. There is a blue manual available many places, like ebay or book stores. Both Myers Early Dodge and Romar also sell it. They are your two main sources of parts.  BUT, this manual is very general, it's for all years of four cylinder DBs. And if you are not familiar with your specific car it will lead down a wrong road. The DB store, also has a website, has reprints of specific things like vacuum tanks and carbs. Sounds like you are headed in the right direction, asking first.

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Borough Essex, I also have a 1922 model.  There are two series of 1922 DBs: early and late.  The model changeover occurred in July of 1922.  The late series '22 is quite recognizable because it has a taller radiator and cowl than the early series had.  Here are some references you might want to obtain:

 

"Book of Information - Dodge Brothers Motor Vehicles" - the factory instruction manual.  Lots of theory of operation and repair information.  I am not aware of any reprints, but it is available on eBay.  Try to get one for, or close to, your model year.

 

"Mechanics' Instruction Manual - Dodge Brothers Motor Cars and Graham Brothers Trucks" - factory publication, reprints available.

 

"The Brothers Dodge" - Automobile Quarterly, First Quarter, 1979.

 

"Dodge Brothers - 'Good Enough' is Not Acceptable" - series by Don Butler in three installments in Cars and Parts magazine during the Spring and Summer of 1979.

 

Charles K. Hyde, "The Dodge Brothers: The Men, The Motor Cars and The Legacy", Chapter 6: "Dodge Brothers under Frederick J. Haynes, 1920-1925"

 

 

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The motor number is not the serial number, just so you know. The serial number should be on the frame cross member just under the floor board on the right side under your heel. There might be a tag on the front floorboards also. The master parts list is also a great way to find what is needed/correct for your car. Dodge did not go by month and year, they listed when a change was made by the cars serial numbers.

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Oil level can be checked by looking on the left side (sitting in car, facing forward) of the block towards the front.  There is a float in the oil pan attached to an 1/8" diameter rod that comes up through a hole in the block.  There are two markers cast into the block and the tip of the rod should be between those markers.  5 - 5.5 quarts does it for mine (a '25).  These cars use a combined starter/generator (left side of block).   There should be a fuse on the top front of it that is (if memory serves) 10 amp.  It might be a good idea to check that the starter/gen chain isn't too loose before running it.  There is a corner cap on the chain housing that is easily unbolted and allows inspection of the chain.  If the chain comes off the gears or breaks while running, it can do some damage.  The ignition system is good old breaker points and single coil.  If for some reason the starter won't crank, it easy to just 'hot wire' a 12 V battery to the coil and run it off the battery and hand crank for testing purposes (but pull the S/G fuse if you do that).   If the coil is bad you can use a 'modern' 12V coil (repro coils are available too).  They also use a vacuum tank to suck fuel from the tank.  Some people have retrofitted an electric fuel pump to fix a non-functional vacuum tank.  If this is the case, you want to make sure it delivers low pressure (under 2 psi, iirc) or it will tend to push past the needle valve in the carb and flood things.  Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Edited by MikeC5 (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

Most grateful for the advice above and we have procured a copy of the manual and are studying it thoroughly; I must admit it is better written than the equivalent Hudson/Essex  manuals. We found a box of bits which came with the car; it needs some wiring work etc and we are making slow progress. I can confirm neither a Hudson or Essex crankhandle fits, which is a bit of a bummer:) Rolled it out of the shed for a picture recently. 

1922 Dodge IMAG2039.jpg

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