Crazyred Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 I have a 1933 Plymouth PD that has a 1934 PF standard Flathead 6. The oil filter canister has the replaceable filter inside. In cleaning out the oil system, I replaced the filter. This canister has a banjo type bolt on top with two brass or copper washers on each side to seal. Once assembled both of these are leaking. The top washer is flat and the bottom washer is flat on top and beveled on bottom. See pictures below. Does anyone know what this may have come off of and where I can get replacement washers? I have had no luck in finding any replacements. My plan b is to put a new original type throw away filter on. Any and all help is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 These pictures show the full canister and all pieces to the top assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocketraider Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 The flat gasket looks like a commonly available drain plug gasket. The beveled one- is it possible that, after all these years, it's simply crushed into the bevel shape? Can you show a pic of the filter cap showing where it seats into the cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 (edited) Currently it’s still assembled but the area around the opening is recessed and the washer is truly beveled. I thought the same as you at first but the washer is solid in shape. If I disassemble again I’ll take a picture of the top recess. Also I didn’t mention that the top flat washer either has paper or fabric inserted somehow. That is the dark ring area showing after I cleaned the washers. Edited January 30, 2021 by Crazyred typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted January 30, 2021 Author Share Posted January 30, 2021 This is the best picture I have of the top, it's the underside but you can make out the recessed area around the opening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Make sure the large rubber ring seal is good. I did a oil and filter change on my '37 and didn't realize that the seal had shrunk hence didn't seal the cap well, when I start the engine oil leaked all over my garage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 You may be able to find suitable seals at an industrial supply, hydraulic cylinder rebuilder or from Andy Bernbaum the Mopar parts specialist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted January 30, 2021 Share Posted January 30, 2021 Look at the copper gaskets/crush washers at aircraftspruce.com. They come in i.d. increments of 1/16”, must be some that fit your bolt and banjo fitting. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Copper crush washers are 1-time use items. I'd follow Gary's advice and if you can't find anything try look at fiber washers. McMaster Carr sells them as electrical insulating washers. The drawback is that they will probably be narrower but I've found they usually work well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted January 31, 2021 Author Share Posted January 31, 2021 Gary_Ash I went to the site you recommended and found the copper washer/fabric. They call it a copper asbestos gasket, which upon more research it appears to be a type of crush washer. So could I replace this with a regular copper crush washer without the asbestos type material inside? Still on the hunt for a beveled washer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Sure, you can use a solid copper washer if it's fully annealed. Also, an annealed copper washer will easily deform into the beveled surface, which is probably how the original washer got that shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Assortment packs are generally available on ebay. Also such as Grainger of MacMaster Carr. My RRPI used them like they were commonplace, so had to have countesses sizes on hand. My NAPA store has a box assortment, but took a little while for someone to figure out they had it. Also, try www.restorationstuff.com. My local ACE hardware store even has a few sizes (though none I ever needed). Solid copper works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted January 31, 2021 Share Posted January 31, 2021 Sidenote - They may not look perfect, but retry your originals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c49er Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Some new copper washers are way too hard. In that care heat them up dull red and let them cool. Then the softer copper washer will seal much better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussJagoau Posted February 6, 2021 Share Posted February 6, 2021 You could try using whats known as a Dowty Seal as used on hydraulic system banjo fittings, these have a Nitrile insert on the ID of the washer and are perfect for this application. I use them numerous times on the By-pass filter on my 50's Pontiacs and classic bikes for sealing external oil lines at connections. The Nitrile insert is slightly thicker than the base OD washer and they can be re-used many times. And they are not expensive in the smaller sizes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 6, 2021 Author Share Posted February 6, 2021 Rocketraider here is a picture of the top lid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 6, 2021 Author Share Posted February 6, 2021 Well after exhausting the local auto stores and not finding any washers, I decided to try to anneal them. This is another first for me while working on this car. Heated, cooled and reinstalled. Fired it up and backed out and noticed a pool of gas were the car was...,😳 Thirty minutes later and fixed a stripped screw on the fuel pump, time to test the filter. After driving and everything’s up to temp all seems sealed now and no fuel leaks either. Thanks for all the advice and I’ll try annealing again when working with copper washers. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 Looking at the cover for the oil filter housing, I’ll guess that some previous owner way overtightened the cover bolt, deforming the cover. I suspect it should have been flat and parallel to the lower edge. Glad that you have been able to seal things up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted February 7, 2021 Share Posted February 7, 2021 FYI in the future, Harbor Freight has an 80 piece copper washer assortment with the largest ID being 1/2". I've used them for lots of Banjo fittings over the years. https://www.harborfreight.com/80-piece-copper-washer-assortment-67526.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyred Posted February 7, 2021 Author Share Posted February 7, 2021 Thanks Frank. The problem was, I needed to find a washer with an id of 11/16”. Seems I could only find that size online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted February 8, 2021 Share Posted February 8, 2021 To anneal copper you heat it up and quench it in water. This is the opposite of annealing steel, which you let cool slowly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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