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Ignition switch and wiring issues


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9 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

 

Mark-

Is the new voltage regulator mechanical or electronic?

 

I went fully electronic many years ago and the charging system has been rock solid (knock on wood).

 

:D

 

Jim, you were spot on, apparently. Put the new Napa standard regulator on and amp light was on, but the voltmeter was showing 17-18 volts. Too much. Took it back off, put original on and back to square one showing 12.25 at alternator. Researched what you told me about electronic regulators and found my local Autozone carried one part number VR715. 51 bucks, and the cover IS riveted, but it's tall like the original, just no markings. Installed it and voila no light. 14.5 volts or so at alternator, 14.2 at battery and horn relay and thats with full load of bright lights. Did read on a Camaro forum that these rwgulators need to be mounted and grounded before plug in, so I made sure to do that. So far, so good. Drove it, got some gas, and drove a little more; no issues. Once again, all of you folks have been a HUGE help to a couple of aggravating issues. Still got to wrap up the ignition switch wiring harness with some tape and get it and the cylinder back in the dash, but that is no big deal.

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37 minutes ago, telriv said:

Just remove the new regulator cover & add your old cover to the new unit.

Yep, will prolly do that. Only difference in the two are the rivets and the old one marked Delco Remy.

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Good to hear problem is now licked. So, it was that old school V. Regulator. Those solid state replacements definitely a huge improvement.

 

My charge system was good and the alternator noise did diminish after a while. But, it was a replacement 42A with the dual pulley swapped from the 52A original. Now I have a 61A with internal regulator.

The 42A 10DN appears tight and spins freely out of the car. Not sure why it made that racket.

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15 hours ago, jframe said:

Jim, you were spot on, apparently. Put the new Napa standard regulator on and amp light was on, but the voltmeter was showing 17-18 volts. Too much. Took it back off, put original on and back to square one showing 12.25 at alternator. Researched what you told me about electronic regulators and found my local Autozone carried one part number VR715. 51 bucks, and the cover IS riveted, but it's tall like the original, just no markings. Installed it and voila no light. 14.5 volts or so at alternator, 14.2 at battery and horn relay and thats with full load of bright lights. Did read on a Camaro forum that these regulators need to be mounted and grounded before plug in, so I made sure to do that. So far, so good. Drove it, got some gas, and drove a little more; no issues. Once again, all of you folks have been a HUGE help to a couple of aggravating issues. Still got to wrap up the ignition switch wiring harness with some tape and get it and the cylinder back in the dash, but that is no big deal.

 

I'm glad that fixed it, Mark.

 

I drilled out the rivets on mine and installed the old Delco-Remey cover on it with the same 2 sheetmetal screws. If I did not tell you it was an electronic VR, you'd never now.

 

In "the olden days" you would take your car to an automotive electric shop and those guys knew how to remove the cover on the mechanical voltage regulator and adjust all of the little coils and points in there to get the voltage correct.  (I'll bet Tom Mooney knows how to do that.) There is also a maximum amps out coil.  There is no need to adjust these things on an EVR, it is all set internally.

 

Yes, a good ground is important. I use some new tooth-style lock washers on the mounting screws to ensure a really good electrical connection to the body.

 

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As an aside, and I hope, FINAL question on this, how do you get the bulb out of the holder that surrounds the ignition switch and lights the key faintly? I still gotta tape up the wires and get the switch back in the dash, and that bulb appears WELDED in, lol.

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