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"1931" Buick Sedan (4 door) with a motor/vehicle identification number of 29715583.


RUF

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Howdy and I am a freshman at this.  I have purchased a "1931" Buick Sedan (4 door) with a vin# 29715583.  I have tried to find information, parts, and manuals to no avail.  Chances are; I am not looking in the right places.  I would like to know the model number and where I can get parts and other items.  

Edited by RUF (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, RUF said:

Howdy and I am a freshman at this.  I have purchased a "1931" Buick Sedan (4 door) with a vin# 29715583.  I have tried to find information, parts, and manuals to no avail.  Chances are; I am not looking in the right places.  I would like to know the model number and where I can get parts and other items.  

Better to make a new post here-->https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/

Photos would help get answers

Worth measuring the wheel base and looking for the engine serial number

No VIN's in 1931.  VIN's started in 1950's and not standardised until 1980's

I cannot see 29715583 fitting in with chassis/frame numbers or engine numbers of 1931 (Ref BCA judging manual)

 

 

BCA pg 24 extract.jpg

Edited by 1939_Buick (see edit history)
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1931 is an unusual year.  The straight 8 engine was introduced.  There were some mechanical problems with the early engines.  About mid year they had corrected the problems and had installed a lot of replacement engines for the failed ones.  Midyear they introduced a new transmission with synchromesh gears.  The early cars had straight cut gears.  

 

The chassis number should be on the frame just behind right front wheel.  The engine number is on the right side just above the distributor.  It is on a machined flat and is stamped.  

 

There are reproduction parts manuals listings from 1916 through 1932 available.  This is helpful in seeing what parts might interchange with other years.

 

You will find a lot of helpful folks on this forum.  They love photos  and are happy to help.

 

Bob Engle

 

 

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  • RUF changed the title to "1931" Buick Sedan (4 door) with a motor/vehicle identification number of 29715583.

I just purchased a 1931 Model 90 (I think) with a motor/vehicle identification number of 29715583.

I have never owned one and I would like to know how to start it.  I have an idea but would like to learn the proper way.  I am in the process of removing the fuel tank (rusted with a pin hole) but will try to start it with a fuel can on the trunk rack.  Also, would like to know where to find parts for the car.  I have looked on the web but chances are that I am not getting the right place.  Any help will be much appreciated and will post pics later..... too many irons in the fire.

Miguel

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1 hour ago, RUF said:

I just purchased a 1931 Model 90 (I think) with a motor/vehicle identification number of 29715583.

I have never owned one and I would like to know how to start it.  I have an idea but would like to learn the proper way.  I am in the process of removing the fuel tank (rusted with a pin hole) but will try to start it with a fuel can on the trunk rack.  Also, would like to know where to find parts for the car.  I have looked on the web but chances are that I am not getting the right place.  Any help will be much appreciated and will post pics later..... too many irons in the fire.

Miguel

Do you have photos?

29715583 does not seem to be a 1931 number.

 

 

 

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Assuming battery is up, ignition system is operative, steering wheel throttle control works and fuel in the float bowl, turn the key all the way clockwise, push spark advance button all the way in and leave it there, pull the choke all the way out, either hold the accelerator down just a bit or set the steering wheel throttle lever (top lever) to open the throttle just a bit above idle position, turn ignition switch on and step firmly on the starter pedal.  Release the starter pedal as soon as the engine fires.  If it is going to start it will probably stall immediately with full choke.  Push choke button in about 1/4 of it's travel and hit the starter again.  As soon as it starts look for oil pressure.  35PSI is normal.  Continue to push choke in and all the way in as soon as the engine will continue to run.   Reduce throttle setting to normal idle after short warm up.  As the engine warms if the radiator is full and thermostat is operative the radiator front shutter should start to open as the water temp rises. 

 

Buick Historic Alliance has reproductions of all the books for these cars including 1931 Reference Manual which is the owners manual, Specifications and Adjustments which is the shop manual, Fisher Body manual and Marvel Heat Control Systems handbook.  

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Once you turn the key to the right, you need to raise the lever to right of the key to the on position.  Without turning this lever to on, the car will crank but you will have no spark.  If my car has been sitting for a while, I squirt some gas into the vent hole on the top of the carb bowl.  The fuel pumps take some time to get the system filled with gas.  The fuel level in the carb must be near full to get the fuel to the idle jets.  

 

Bob Engle

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Correct on ignition switch lever, key just retracts lever so it cannot be operated when turned counter-clockwise and locks the column.  Turning fully clockwise should extend the ignition switch lever which unlocks the ignition switch lever so it can be raised to switch ignition ON and unlocks the column.   

 

If you have removed the tank and there is no fuel in the fuel line you will probably have to re-fill the carburetor bowl a couple of times before the fuel pump will pull fuel from the reinstalled tank.  I've had my car on jack stands for over 2yrs while completing a restoration.  During that time I have avoided putting fuel in the car's tank by using a small boat tank with a primer bulb in the gas line.  That avoids ending up with a newly restored gas tank with a load of stale fuel in it.  I connected the line from my portable tank to the suction side of the fuel pump to avoid running the fuel pump dry and it's handy because I can fill the carburetor bowl with a couple of squeezes of the primer bulb.  Disconnecting the line from the portable tank and letting the engine run until it quits allows the carburetor to run dry when the car is going to sit for awhile.  One other note of caution, DO NOT pressurize the car's fuel tank in any way to speed priming of the gas line or you will blow the oil charge out of the King Seely gas gauge on the instrument panel rendering it useless.

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I have tried to turn it around and it still shows upside down.  I took the pics with me cell phone, sent them to myself, saved a copy and this is what I get.  Thank you for the help so far.  Going to drop the fuel tank today.

Miguel

d.jpg

c.jpg

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I have tried to turn it around and it still shows upside down.  I took the pics with me cell phone, sent them to myself, saved a copy and this is what I get.  Thank you for the help so far.  Going to drop the fuel tank today.

Miguel

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From your cowl data plate, you have a 1931 model 67.  67 is the 60 series car and is the four door sedan model.  There were 30,667 of this model built.  Most parts for the 30's Buicks are model specific, especially on the drive train.  There were basically 4 series. 50, 60, 80, 90.  You will want to specify this 60 series when purchasing parts.  Some parts will interchange with other years such as 31, 32 and 33.

 

Bob Engle

Edited by Robert Engle (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, RUF said:

Okay, found this number on the chassis next to the pax side wheel..... 2566116.

 

Quote

I just purchased a 1931 Model 90 (I think) with a motor/vehicle identification number of 29715583.

 

So where is/did you find number 29715583? 

Car looks very good.  Is a Model 67 (not 90)

Close up photos on the engine from both sides?

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I just started my 31-67 this morning for the fist time in over ten years.  This car was gifted to me by a friend who passed.  He purchased it over ten years ago, got sick, and never got it to run.  I had to remove the rocker assy. and work on two stuck valves, install a new electric fuel pump, and rebuild the carburetor with a new cork float.  Unfortunately, the float valve is not the original and is not yet seating.  So, I need an original to make it work properly.  I also need a replacement throttle arm as the original was broken.

31-67 Front.jpg

31-67 Side.jpg

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Agree on the ‘drop the pan’ comment 100%. Inspect the gunk for Babbitt and run a magnet around in it and see what you find.  Clean pan and pick-up. 
 

Next would be a compression check for stuck or burnt valves

 

Then check for lube circulation with valve cover off during compression checks motoring with starter and the oil pressure gauge. 

 

Cheap online fiber camera to inspect the fuel tank for gunk after you first drain. 
 

Cover off the carburetor bowl and inspect for gunk and float function and needle seating/sealing. 
 

Do you have spark?

 

And the list goes on.  

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I hear you guys and thank you for all the tips.  I have thought about a few but you guys added very important tips that I would have probably not done prior to starting the car.  Having said that; where do I get the gaskets for the areas that I am going to remove (oil pan, valve cover, etc.... 

Tomorrow; I plan to take a look at the cooling system.  By the way;  the fuel tank was quite rusty and the fuel intake that mount on the tank looks like it was rigged.  I took the battery off (it was not easy) and the bracket is all worn out.  I am going to try and build one or see if one can be purchased on line.

Miguel

I am having fun and I will get it started.

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18 hours ago, RUF said:

I have tried to turn it around and it still shows upside down.  I took the pics with me cell phone, sent them to myself, saved a copy and this is what I get.  Thank you for the help so far.  Going to drop the fuel tank today.

Miguel

d.jpg

c.jpg

 

20210117_083415.png.02b613040cd09f66f14df480ff9dfa1f.png

 

20210117_083456.png.3d90e1d4eb8e4d144bd9bc95517e79e5.png

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