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63 HVAC Panel (Sell/Trade)


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Howdy,

 

Been a bit since I've been over here but still plucking away at my '64 T-type restromod.  Since I'm adding a bunch of things that need switches that weren't there originally I've picked up a pair of '63 HVAC panels.  One is complete with all the arms in good shape and some of the cables still attached.  The other has a broken lever but most of the levers are still functional.  Since I need to cut the back end of one of them off so it'll clear the speaker and the suplimental fuse box I have on the defroster duct I thought I'd offer them up if anyone needs a good one or has one more busted up (I only need from the trim plate with the switches and slides in it forward) that they'd want to trade.  Feel bad cutting up good parts but sometime this month I hope to start putting the interior back together which means modifying that panel.

 

Thanks

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There are measured drawings on the ROA website for making replacement levers. Most levers get broken because someone uses force to push a corroded wire through the cable or most likely trying to force a frozen (corroded) temperature control valve to move. Buying a broken one is not the end of the world

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I re-cored some of my 1963 HVAC cables only to find oldairproducts.com offering full sets:

https://www.oldairproducts.com/products?filtercache=d585b314-b199-49d2-86c6-835f5013b0a3

 

Speaker? You must be using a 1964 - 65 Dashpad like I am. I mounted corrugated plastic poster board in the speaker grill and an acoustic exciter off-center to clear HVAC levers. Doesn't sound nearly as nice as the 3-Way 6X9 between the rear seats, good for talk shows/news only.

 

Also, using a 1/4"-28 well nut as the pivot for those levers work extremely well!

 

I placed a supplemental Fuse Box on the inboard evap bracket to be accessible. 4 Fuses, 2 for switched 12V and 2 for live 12V.

image.png.28d873407d1a32bb8d515306f0c7a900.pngimage.png.96a2008e657a6adf006cc05fa882ae71.png

DSC03689.JPG

DSC03726.JPG

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I have a '64 to start with but yes, I'm using the 4x10in speaker outlet except I found that if you are very careful you can use 4x10in speakers designed for Toyotas and sandwich them together in the opening

IMG_20210114_185611128.thumb.jpg.a45c4c9919e422a45753fe6f35dd9b16.jpgIMG_20210114_185551743.thumb.jpg.84eb5bd84cd10fd8120742f15d351cab.jpg

 

I'd already pulled them off of the dash but you can see the four bolt pattern that holds them on.  I did have to file the mounting ears a bit to get them to actually bolt on.

 

I'm running a Painless 7 Circutboss with four switched and three constants on the defroster duct that handle the main items inside the cabin (there's another in the trunk for the stereo and fuel pump) and a switched one like yours from CE on top of the floor vent housing for the power seats (swapped from a 98 CL600) since it can handle 30A vs. the Painless can only handle 20A max.

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Turnswitch.com/speakers  offers some low profile dual cone 4x10 8 ohm dash speakers for use with a larger 6x9 in the rear. (Read their explanation ) 

 

D410BK.jpeg.206a946dcd4e19a191a96c1655d8f9ec.jpeg

 

As well as some dual cone 6x9 speakers for the rear.

69hqbk.jpg.87f49c0a074568df42221fe500f8fb0a.jpg

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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