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1922 Running Board replacement

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Now that I have installed my front fenders I am replacing the original running boards.  Pretty much everything on this car has been original to date and by the looks of these running boards, they are no exception.  The linoleum is trashed and the side trim is rusted and bent.  Passenger side is better has no rot but the drivers side has some rot at the rear.  My running boards are a solid piece of wood.  There is a 3/4 inch wide piece of trim added to the passenger side board, it looks like they were just using what lumber they had to make it work.   




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Each running board had 3 grooves cut into the underside. Each groove was 7/32 wide and ran the entire length spaced about 2 3/4 inches.     The inner trim was nailed on and the outer trim was screwed on with screws spaced 4 inches apart.





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I assumed that the running boards were originally made of white ash since it seems that was used throughout the car mostly.  I was not able to find white ash in wide enough boards so the hardwood store recommended Sapele Mahogany which they said is hard and performs well in moist environments.  I needed boards to be at least 12 inches wide and 1 inch thick so I could cut and plane them to size.  My original boards were 11 5/8" wide the entire length and were 7/8" thick.  The store planed and cut the width to my requirements.  My new boards were about 7" long so I trimmed them after I got home.  I even got Kathy to help me run them through the table saw to cut the grooves on the underside. 




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Now that the boards are fit to the car, the next step is to drill the holes in the right places and countersink the boards for the elevator bolts I ordered.



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Why don't you want to varnish them?? Ugh.....I do not have the photo anymore but a local fellow had a 1928 model 48 Coupe that had oak boards stained and BARTOP clear with a rough Buick script routed in to them.


 Note the broom sticks with crutch tips to drop the rear of the top so he could get the car thru a 6'-3" high door. The owner had a business installing hardwood flooring. 


That was what Mr. Whiteford did to all the wood he could expose on his 1922-45 John Fesser and I worked on in Baltimore. Veneered dash. He also sanded all the floorboards, stained and varnished them. Added Luan plywood side kick panels.


Nice touch! The bar and installed tape player. He had a 12V battery installed just to run the radio/player and the chasing lights he installed under the running boards.

So again everyone this is what the headlights look like for the 1922.






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  • 1 month later...

This weekend I have almost completed my running boards.  I decided not to glue my linoleum down this time and just use the inner and outer binding (Aluminum trim) and the front fender and rear binding strip to hold the linoleum in place. I will also add the aluminum step pads which will also hold the linoleum in place.


The first running boards I made really cupped over when I glued the linoleum in place. I painted the bottom side and glued linoleum on the top side. I believe that after two days the moisture in the glue made the board swell on the top side and cup over so bad they could not be used.  So this is my rework of that problem and I did not glue the linoleum in place this time. 


I pre-drilled the inner binding trim every 12 inches and attached it with Brad nails just like my original was attached.  I waited to attach the outer binding after I attached the running board to the car and laid the linoleum in place by sliding it under the inner trim.  I am making the rear binding pieces now so I can complete the running board installation.  I was very pleased with these bindings which were from L & L Antique Car Mouldings.




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Looks great mark!

 Linoleum does set the off the look of the car. I still have to  finish the passenger side of Beulah.


What was on my car was counter top moulding. I also bought moulding from "BOB's". The 1925s had the ribbed edge on the outside.  The 1925-45 Remley has a different pattern with the edging like a picture frame with mitered corners. I have some of the original moulding from the Master but it was probably off a model 51 parts car since the lengths of some pieces are longer than my boards. The locations of bends were located, a V notch was cut out on the top surface and the piece was folded at 90 degrees.


 Period photo of NEW 1925-55.


 Restored 1924-45


What is presently on Remley Plain 1 1/4"X 1 1/4" angle aluminum and ribbed rubber floor runner.

L&L has a more accurate representation of the original zinc examples with the dimpled countersunk holes. 


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Big difference between 25's and 22's.  The parts book has a published length for the inner and outer edge binding but both are slightly longer than the actual pieces.  Looks like they are cut to size when you get them from Buick.  L & L makes a nice product.  

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The number I used was 417-476-2871.  I believe Bob told me he was in the middle of moving when I bought mine.  That was over one year ago however, so he should be over that by now.

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