Rear Spring Cross Member

[abelincoln 16]

What holds the rear spring cross member in place on a 48 Continental?  I was trying to disconnect the rear spring shackles to lower the differential so the transmission can be removed. when there was a bang, and the cross member disconnected on one side, and the spring end hit the floor.  Looks like it was held in place with some kind of insulating material.  Seems like it should be bolted or welded.  What do do next?

Thanks

Abe

[38ShortopConv. 26]

I believe the front and rear spring cross members  on Lincoln Zephyrs and Continentals from 1939 had some sort of rubber sandwich insulation mounting arrangement to eliminate any road/rumble   vibration. I have never seen any.  

Edited January 1 by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

[abelincoln 16]

Managed to remove the offending parts.  Looks kind of like a motor mount with the top part still on the car, and the bottom part attached to the curved cross member.  Found a part no. of 96H 5044, insulator.  Any ideas of where to get a pair, or maybe a motor mount re-builder?

 

I'm also thinking the insulator is not particularly important, don't recall seeing such a thing on a Ford of similar vintage.  Looks like it was mostly detached before I started working on the area, glad I caught before the rear end fell out while driving. 

Thanks

Abe

 

 

[38ShortopConv. 26]

The front and rear cross members on my 38 Lincoln Zephyr are both hot rivetted to frame. May be practicable to weld your crossmember   to frame by a competent  welder/fabricator.  

Edited January 1 by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

[Colin Spong 122]

Chris Herrel has these available. Check his on-line catalog.  

[Paul S Allen 0]

Chris will want your cores. I installed some front and back. They are nice!

[40ZephSedan 13]

I don't have a manual for 48, and can not tell for sure from the photo but I think the spring insulators on 40's were also used in 48. May want to stay with them for the quieter ride with the spring and frame separated by rubber rather than welded/bolted/riveted metal to metal.  Don't shave new insulators if go in tight, want them tight; press up in place slowly with hydraulic bottle jack. Here is the 1940 setup. Good Luck- Paul

[abelincoln 16]

Thanks folks.  After some debate, I went ahead and ordered a set from Chris.  Was tempted to put the price toward getting a Ford Explored 8.8 rear end, about the same size but you need to get axle tubes and axles from two rear ends as the Explorer has an offset due to transfer case.  Would need a new frame member to locate and hang coil over shocks as well.  But you could have disk brakes, positraction, and any ratio you want. 

Abe