transmission swap from 90s GM

[cpu]

Hello, long time no posts from me. I need to replace the transmission in my 88 Reatta. I don't want to spend much at this time because my Reatta is not in great shape. I just want to try to get it back on the road.

 

I found a few transmissions in my local junkyard. Here are a few candidates. I read info from the Service Parts Information sticker when possible:

 

Y /M /M                  Eng, RPO    Trans RPO

94 Cutlass Ciera.   3.1L.            ???

93 Riviera.              3.8L L27     MX0.

97 Lumina.              3.1L L82.    MX0.

 

(Hope that formatted text comes through).

 

Of those, the Ciera trans would be my first choice because the engine is already out. The outdoor labor to remove it in mid-December Pennsylvania will be much less than with the other cars. I can't read the SPI label in the trunk of the Ciera because another engine is placed in there! (Not the Ciera's 3.1).

 

Could this Ciera trans be successfully installed? I've read posts of related discussions but didn't get my answer.

Carl

 

Edited December 12, 2020 by cpu
added photo (see edit history)

[dship]

I thinking that from 1991 on all GM tyranny's were electronic not mechanical.  I'm aware that 1991 was the year-change for the Reatta and Riviera, at least.

[2seater]

38 minutes ago, dship said:

I thinking that from 1991 on all GM tyranny's were electronic not mechanical.  I'm aware that 1991 was the year-change for the Reatta and Riviera, at least.

I am pretty sure also that by the model years listed all are electronically controlled. Right around the 1989-1991 model years GM had a mix of 3.8 liter engines and transmissions depending on the car line, no one year changeover company wide. The best bet is the interchange books, Hollander?, that the salvage yards use.

[padgett]

I think that there was a separate controller available to an fit "E" trans to a non-E car but may have been 20 yar ago.

The best 4T60 was in the 91 Grad Prix. I believe that was a non-E. From 88 to 91 there were continuous improvements and updgrade. Since the 3800 was the max torque allowed for a 4T60, a 4T65 would be better. Also Cad used a non-E version of the 4T60 called an F-7, might see if that bolts up.

[DAVES89]

Go to www.car-part.com and let the prompts help you find a tranny and what years work.

[Barney Eaton]

1991 was the first year (and last) for the electronic transmission in a Reatta.   GM began the switch in 91 so there are some vehicles with 3800 engines in 91 that did not have the electronic trans. 

I suspect the clue would be a control cable from the throttle linkage to the trans on the non-electronic. 

There should be a pretty good supply of trans that are non-electronic ..... I would stick with one from a 3800.  

You will find there were different final drive ratios in different vehicles but for a driver I would not be concerned with that difference. ... 

[handmedownreatta]

13 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

1991 was the first year (and last) for the electronic transmission in a Reatta.   GM began the switch in 91 so there are some vehicles with 3800 engines in 91 that did not have the electronic trans. 

I suspect the clue would be a control cable from the throttle linkage to the trans on the non-electronic. 

There should be a pretty good supply of trans that are non-electronic ..... I would stick with one from a 3800.  

You will find there were different final drive ratios in different vehicles but for a driver I would not be concerned with that difference. ... 

unless you want faster acceleration.

[Jim]

I agree with Dave. There are hundreds of them out there that will go right in. Get one from any larger '88-90 GM car that used the 3800 engine. Goes right in and no changes needed.

I just changed, myself, the trans in my '90 winter driver and followed the book even though I have disassembled many Reattas. I mention I followed the book because in my opinion the book is wrong. It say's to leave in the passenger side axle. MISTAKE. It was in the way removing the trans and in the way putting it back in. You already have the left side out so for a little more work, separate the lower ball joint and the tie rod end and take out the axle.