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RIVIERA 1966


cquisuila
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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Good on you Philip,  great  car , last year of  the nail head,  and 

i hope you get a lot of enjoyment, with your  66,

keep it stock  and you will never regret buying  your Buick.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 2 months later...

hello

 

I completely disassemble the brakes at the rear to refurbish and therefore the brake circuit at the rear is open

 

and i tried to start the engine and it is impossible...

 

BEFORE dissassemble i started without problem...

 

> Is it normal ?🤒 Has security been put in place ?

The open brake circuit would prevent it from starting  ?

 

neutral safety switch ?

 

thank you for yours answers !

Philippe

 

Edited by cquisuila (see edit history)
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There is no relationship between the brakes and the engine not starting.  Does the engine spin?  If not, then neutral safety switch is a possibility.  Try shifting to Neutral ("N") and start.  If still doesn't spin, then check battery and starter connections and starter solenoid.

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Emtee, you confirm me the brake circuit is no relationship.

 

I don't understand

before i started...

 

- i charged the battery and it is 12.7V and it is the same problem

 

the engine spins but no starting

 

> i will verify the starter, the ignition switch connections, and the neutral switch

 

very strange affair !!!:(

 

It is real that here, it is winter and the temperature is low 5°Celsius

 

 

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Since the engine spins and it is cold out you should check that the choke on the carburator is fully closed before trying to start the engine. 

 

Also I assume you have the car raised up at the rear to work on the brakes?  If so, check that you have enough gas in the tank so that the fuel pickup point is covered. 

 

And also check the flexible fuel line between the gas tank and the fuel lines. If this is more than 20 years old it may be cracked or deteriorated from ethanol fuels and you may want to replace that now while you have the back end raised up.  

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1 hour ago, cquisuila said:

OK

 

i changed the fuel flexible line

 

i will verify my new carburetor (but i'm not an expert...;)

Which carburator did your car have originally? It could have been a quadrojet or a Rochester. The Rochester has 4 barrels of the same size. The quadrojet has two small barrels in the front half and two substantially larger barrels in the back half. 

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Does the car have breaker points, or has it been converted to electronic ignition?  If breaker points, check for voltage at the coil.  Check continuity between the points and ground.  With the points closed (on a flat spot of the distributor cam) the negative side of the coil should be grounded.  If the points are suspect, try cleaning the contacts with a small file or emery cloth.  If it starts, then I'd replace the points with a new set.

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16 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

Which carburator did your car have originally? It could have been a quadrojet or a Rochester. The Rochester has 4 barrels of the same size. The quadrojet has two small barrels in the front half and two substantially larger barrels in the back half. 

i have exactly the same carburetor as original : 7026240 rochester 4MC

 

i sawn a lot of humidity on the engine and carburetor because my car is outside with carport

it is perhaps the reason of the difficult starting

 

image.png.cb0181d4413149165292074d70c342df.png

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The humidity could compromise spark plug wires if they are older and the insulation is cracked. It can also compromise the points and rotor contacts inside the distributor if the humidity is very dense. 

 

Take the distributor cap off and turn it over to see if there is moisture inside the cap. If so get a hair dryer to blow out the dampness from all areas inside the distributor.  

 

How old are your spark plug wires?

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14 minutes ago, cquisuila said:

my sparks plugs << I don't know the age

The plugs themselves would not be as affected as the wires.  If the wires are suspect you can also dry them with the hair dryer.  But of course the repair is to replace them. I have had good luck with Belden Wires.

 

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yes

the engine starts now

for information my tank was filled, the hose remplaced and i have fresh gasoline ;)

 

> i have to adjust the carburetor rochester now with the screws

SEE PICTURE please

image.png.dc03fc78d5c72897398f3971e7080d53.png

 

and here it is a difficult affair...for me ;)

 

if you have ideas i take information

 

 

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On 12/16/2021 at 2:55 PM, EmTee said:

I spray the spark plug wires with WD-40 (displaces moisture) when I see condensation on them and the car will not start.  This is an indication that your spark plug wires should be replaced, as the insulation is degraded.

 

41zH4pdJoUL.jpg

ok thanks for this review !!

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image.png.dc03fc78d5c72897398f3971e7080d53.png

Before you put the carb back on you should have adjusted the primary throttle plates with the recommended number drill to be sure only the idle circuit comes into play. Or just set it so a light crack of daylight shows through.

 

Turn the i adjust screws all the way in until they seat gently. Don't force them.

 

Back them out 1 1/2 turns. I usually count 3 half turns. I find it easier doing half turns. That will give you a reference point to begin alternating in small increments to get it smooth and close to the specified RPM.

 

Set the emergency brake or block the wheels, put it in gear and adjust the throttle plate for the RPM.

 

That should get you pretty close.

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