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Need help waking up a 322


MrEarl

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Need tips on cranking and running a 322 that's been sitting 2-3 years. I know from experience that sticking valves can be a problem with the 322 and 264. For safe measure I'll probably juice the cylinders with some Marvel Mystery and acetone a day or so before cranking over by hand first then without the coil wire on. My biggest concern though is the sticking valves issue. What in detail can be done to help prevent that or at least tell if one is sticking. This is a rebuilt engine with probably less than 5000 miles on it. 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Lamar ,

Pull the valve covers , remove the rocker shafts and compress each valves

enough to move it .

Then I would reinstall the rockers and hand crank the engine .

I've never had trouble with valves unless the engine had sat

for a long time with the ports not sealed .

Hope this helps .

PS I didn't get the 55 century hdtp stick ! He cut the price in half

but I wasn't 100 % sure about the remaining work needed .

Bill

 

 

 

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Thanks @billbuickgs, I was hoping to not have to pull the rockers but no problem, will do. I'll probably see when I get into it, but how do you "compress"? Tap with a hammer or?

 

Re the 55 stick, it would have been hard for me to turn down a 54 Century stick at that price but would have had to. You made the right decision, the only decision.

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Lamar, when I pulled the heads to have them rebuilt and reinstalled I turned the engine by hand to assure that the valves were opening(rockers moving) and that the valves were not going to be struck by a piston.     Pull the plugs and valve covers.  Hand crank watching each valve is moving.

 

Your next piece of the puzzle is good clean gas.  Old gas is said to screw up intake valves.      

 

PS. if recall my situation I installed the heads and went to hand crank the engine.  I got a 1/4 turn and jammed.  Went back a 1/4 turn and jammed.  I was baffled thinking a valve was hitting a piston.  Come to find out I left the darn 3 speed in gear.   DOH!  Once in neutral the engine hand turned 360 and all valves were doing their thing.      

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3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

Pull the plugs and valve covers.  Hand crank watching each valve is moving.

 

Your next piece of the puzzle is good clean gas.  Old gas is said to screw up intake valves. 

 

 

 

2 hours ago, 1956322 said:

Tapping with a piece of wood is a good idea but probably the best preventive at this point is fresh gas!!!

 

1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Squirt a little tranny fluid or marvel oil at the valve guide/valve stem interface.  The only time I have seen sticking valve in a nailhead was when the machine shop set the clearance too tight.

 

 

Thanks gang! I've pretty much done all the procedures y'all mentioned throughout the years on the many parts cars I've brought back to life but this car is special so wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything. I also wasn't sure on how to "compress the valves" if they didn't move.  I have also misted water into the carburetor while engine was running to clean the combustion chambers. I totally agree with the comments about clean gas. The one 264 that the valve stuck in and bent the rod was one that I had gotten running no problem, even did the water mist treatment on, but left sitting for a couple weeks and upon cranking the valve stuck. Pretty sure the culprit was OLD GAS. I've also used Seafoam in the gas of engines that have sat for awhile. 

 

Hope to get to it next week and will report back results, Thanks guys!

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Before disassembly, first just pull the rocker covers, pull the sparkplugs, turn the harmonic balancer or main pulley by hand (or have someone use a prybar on the ring gear)-

just watch to see that all rockers are rocking, and that the valves are opening. If that is OK, then you're good to go, and if not, then ATF and easy tapping after removing the rockers is probably the best way 

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I enjoyed the lesson on this.  With the question of old gas and what is considered old gas, should we use the highest octane of gas?  Does octane make a difference on the possibility of sticking valves?

 

Also, about how long (or how many miles) does it take to eat up a whole tank of gas with a well running 322?

 

@MrEarl, any videos of this task with the engine running?  Hope you and the Wife are well.

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1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

I enjoyed the lesson on this.  With the question of old gas and what is considered old gas, should we use the highest octane of gas?  Does octane make a difference on the possibility of sticking valves?

 

Kosage, I don't think sticking valves are a problem with vehicles that are driven regularly but rather when idiots like myself let a car sit for weeks and months which turn into years. Some folks add an upper cylinder lubricant or something like Marvel Mystery Oil regularly to their gas at fill up.

 

 

1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Also, about how long (or how many miles) does it take to eat up a whole tank of gas with a well running 322?

 

 

Normal conservative driver: 19 gal X 16 mpg = 304 miles per tank

 

Me: 19 gal X 9 mpg = 171

 

Hope that helps

 

 

1 hour ago, Kosage Chavis said:

 

@MrEarl, any videos of this task with the engine running?  Hope you and the Wife are well.

 

 

I'll try and make a video and share....

 

 

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2 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

 

 

Also, about how long (or how many miles) does it take to eat up a whole tank of gas with a well running 322?

 

 

 

My 264 3-speed I can average 15 mpg or about 300 miles a tank full at highway speeds. Not bad really.    My 401 gets 12 mpg or 240 miles on a full tank at highway speeds.  Not that great but hey, it is what it is.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

So after pulling the plugs and juicing the cylinders with a mixture of Marvel Mystery and acetone then spraying the valve stems through the springs with PB Blaster and leaving sit overnight I turned the engine by hand, first with the plugs out then with the plugs back in hoping the compression would force the MM up into the top of the cylinder and about the valves. During this turning, all the valves were moving. After spraying the springs and valves with more MM I installed the plugs and poured some gas into the carb and cranked her over. She fired right up and idled. As the car was in tight quarters I wasn't able to drain the gas yet so limited the running to only a couple minutes at most. Will drain gas tomorrow, replace with fresh non ethanol with either MM or Seafoam and change oil and filter. 

 

On 12/11/2020 at 8:58 AM, Kosage Chavis said:

@MrEarl, any videos of this task with the engine running? 

 

For you Kosage 🙂

 

 

 

 

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Oh and I also had the joy of discovering Tractor Supply no longer stocks the 3EE tractor battery, Batteries Plus was out as was NAPA. Finally found one at a Car Quest in a farming area about 30 miles from me. They were closing at 2:00 on Saturday but was told if I'd buy on line they would leave it on the back loading dock. Sure nuf there it was. 
But since they were closed I couldn’t get credit for a core so added it to my collection 

99394D74-9E32-4215-9CAE-9F3CB10B0274.thumb.jpeg.a75d28a9a2776038211445bb1aa356d4.jpeg

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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13 hours ago, MrEarl said:

So after pulling the plugs and juicing the cylinders with a mixture of Marvel Mystery and acetone then spraying the valve stems through the springs with PB Blaster and leaving sit overnight I turned the engine by hand, first with the plugs out then with the plugs back in hoping the compression would force the MM up into the top of the cylinder and about the valves. During this turning, all the valves were moving. After spraying the springs and valves with more MM I installed the plugs and poured some gas into the carb and cranked her over. She fired right up and idled. As the car was in tight quarters I wasn't able to drain the gas yet so limited the running to only a couple minutes at most. Will drain gas tomorrow, replace with fresh non ethanol with either MM or Seafoam and change oil and filter. 

 

 

For you Kosage 🙂

 

 

 

 

Can't run the video.  Not sure why. Said the plug in isn't supported.  

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8 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Oh and I also had the joy of discovering Tractor Supply no longer stocks the 3EE tractor battery, Batteries Plus was out as was NAPA. Finally found one at a Car Quest in a farming area about 30 miles from me. They were closing at 2:00 on Saturday but was told if I'd buy on line they would leave it on the back loading dock. Sure nuf there it was. 
But since they were closed I couldn’t get credit for a core so added it to my collection 

99394D74-9E32-4215-9CAE-9F3CB10B0274.thumb.jpeg.a75d28a9a2776038211445bb1aa356d4.jpeg

 

I moved up to the 3ET battery.  More CCA. 500CCA.   It is a bit taller than the 3EE. Fits fine in the Special.  I notice a big difference in cranking speed. I got mine at NAPA. Tractor supply should have the 3ET. 

 

 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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So today I cleaned out a spot in the BS&S garage for the Century then drained the 15 gallons of shellac out of the gas tank and rinsed it with 2-3 gallons at a time 3 times. It's still not running as clear as the fresh I am pouring in so will keep at it until it is.  Bad news is the brake pedal went to the floor so will be dealing with that next. 😩 

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On 12/9/2020 at 12:54 PM, MrEarl said:

Need tips on cranking and running a 322 that's been sitting 2-3 years. I know from experience that sticking valves can be a problem with the 322 and 264. For safe measure I'll probably juice the cylinders with some Marvel Mystery and acetone a day or so before cranking over by hand first then without the coil wire on. My biggest concern though is the sticking valves issue. What in detail can be done to help prevent that or at least tell if one is sticking. This is a rebuilt engine with probably less than 5000 miles on it. 

 

 

I was a total chicken when I started the Project 66R up after sitting for a couple years. I pulled the distributor and primed the oil system with a drill until I had oil psi. I then turned it by hand a couple of times. I now am keeping track of it and plan on starting it about every 3-4 months. (I do like to hear it run)

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5 minutes ago, Mudbone said:

 

 

I was a total chicken when I started the Project 66R up after sitting for a couple years. I pulled the distributor and primed the oil system with a drill until I had oil psi. I then turned it by hand a couple of times. I now am keeping track of it and plan on starting it about every 3-4 months. (I do like to hear it run)

 

I typically do the prime thing on engines that have sat for an unknown time and may should have done it this time. I intend to crank this one every few weeks or so but that was my intention when i parked it last time too. After all this though I think I might give it more attention this time, hopefully lived and learned. .

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48 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

I believe because it is linking to the file on your hard drive. It was never upload. 


i uploaded it from my cellphone and can view it from my laptop and cellphone 

 

@Peter Gariepy , any idea why some aren’t able to view the above video? 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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12 hours ago, MrEarl said:


i uploaded it from my cellphone and can view it from my laptop and cellphone 

 

@Peter Gariepy , any idea why some aren’t able to view the above video? 

 

as he mentioned... he didnt have the right plugin.  sounds like an old browser, old computer etc.  Nothing that can be done accept on his end to get more up to date.

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