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1928 Dodge Brothers Victory Six 5 Window Coupe Restoration Add Tag


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I will be looking forward to watching this come together Teddy. If it turns out anything like that RR it will be beautiful. 
Looks like the previous owner went a little crazy with the flat black. If anything it might of protected it a little. 
 

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Matt, did you take notice to the beige car in the backround of Ted's first picture? John Keiser showed you a picture of it the beginning of your thread. It is a sport roadster Victory. Ted has a herd of Victories. My fav is a coupedark green with orange wheels. There was another Sport roadster in the DBC, was owned by Gary. It was light beige and maroon. He sold it about two years ago. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Starting on the Sandblasting of the frame and having to rebuild the Speedometer.   Lucky, I sold a parts car to a good friend Elton and he was so kind to give me the Dash cluster out of that car and I was able to take the mine apart and use the casting from the one he gave me to rebuild it, Works great, forgot to take a picture of it done, will upload later.  

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Update on 1928 Dodge Brothers Victory Six 5 Window Coupe. Had to take some time off the do some work on my daughters condo in NY. But back to work or should I say "Playing". Got the Frame, springs, Rear & front axle sandblasted primed and painted. Still have to put the springs back together, than I'll start putting back on the frame. enjoy.

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What is the thickness of the metal in the frame? Can you describe how the body is attached to the frame? As I understand it the frame doubles as the threshold of the body and that the body is set into the frame rather than on top of it. Is that correct?

I am trying to write an article on the Dodge 1928, digging deeper into the engineering of the body and chassis than in the article I got published in Hemmings. It would be great if I could use your excellent pictures of the frame, especially the one with the frame painted in base coat. It makes the design very clear. 

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If I am not mistaken, The victory six had a flange of sorts along the sides that bolted thru the sides of the chassis.

I don't see this flange on this coupe body. Mine is a sedan and highly modified.

But that tin was rotten on my body so I couldn't reattach it to the frame. The car was rough and disassembled when I got it.

I will post a picture of how I welded a strap to the A, B, and at the lower end of the curve of the C pillar so that I could channel the body over the frame and use those same holes in the chassis to bolt that strap thus leaving my suspension relatively high with the body lowered radically.

In real life these orange sills would be at the top of the frame. (eight inch's channeled)

Sorry if this doesn't belong here but I see that body to frame question was asked.

 

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image.thumb.jpeg.06accc09cf23c18e95ae3d1c6e7b5a61.jpegMaking some headway with the 1928 Dodge Brothers Victory Six 5 Window Coupe. Rebuilding all the breaks and installing them in the frame. And found out the rubber boots on the tie rod ends were not correct and should be leather, so good friend Mike from Bay Country Upholstery in Annapolis was so kind to give me a piece of leather so I could make them. Also started on the redoing the steering wheel with some great advice from another friend Mat Meeks in Melbourne
Austrailia, he is amazingly talented. Also ran all the coper break lines & started restoring the gas tank.

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On 1/13/2021 at 5:32 PM, Perpoff said:

What is the thickness of the metal in the frame? Can you describe how the body is attached to the frame? As I understand it the frame doubles as the threshold of the body and that the body is set into the frame rather than on top of it. Is that correct?

I am trying to write an article on the Dodge 1928, digging deeper into the engineering of the body and chassis than in the article I got published in Hemmings. It would be great if I could use your excellent pictures of the frame, especially the one with the frame painted in base coat. It makes the design very clear. 

The Body is Set on the frame, with the front and rear sitting on the frame and the side below the door come down on the side and are bolted on.  I will have some pictures in the near future.   Message me with what ever pictures you want & will will try and get them for you.   ( tclmagic@mac.com )    

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On 1/14/2021 at 1:49 PM, JACK M said:

If I am not mistaken, The victory six had a flange of sorts along the sides that bolted thru the sides of the chassis.

I don't see this flange on this coupe body. Mine is a sedan and highly modified.

But that tin was rotten on my body so I couldn't reattach it to the frame. The car was rough and disassembled when I got it.

I will post a picture of how I welded a strap to the A, B, and at the lower end of the curve of the C pillar so that I could channel the body over the frame and use those same holes in the chassis to bolt that strap thus leaving my suspension relatively high with the body lowered radically.

In real life these orange sills would be at the top of the frame. (eight inch's channeled)

Sorry if this doesn't belong here but I see that body to frame question was asked.

 

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On an original Victory Six, yes there are flanges bolted on top of the frame about 12" long and a lip over the edge about an inch or 1.5" wide that the floor boards lay on.  I will get some pics for you.

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Wow Teddy your flying along with this , it’s looking great. The steering wheel looks like it came out perfectly. What a  difference from what it was. I actually also just finished all my brake lines this morning before work. Bit of a late start 😬

I have changed all mine to steel lines because they kind of frown on us over here with copper. You can get away with it but I don’t want any trouble when I go to register it. 
Keep up the great work and pics. 
I love your  workshop I can only ever dream of keeping mine that neat and tidy. 

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Matt, are you allowed to use cunifer lines? They are nickel copper alloy, actually have higher burst then steel. It is very easy to form and kind of looks like the original copper lines. Ted is moving along at lightening speed also. I think he used cunifer for his. 

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13 hours ago, Ted Levitt said:

On an original Victory Six, yes there are flanges bolted on top of the frame about 12" long and a lip over the edge about an inch or 1.5" wide that the floor boards lay on.  I will get some pics for you.

 

Seems like mine was more of a skirt that was somehow part of the body on the sides. I cut the remains off. The skirt may have originally been covered by that piece under the door as that is where the part I had to cut was.

This was probably over ten years ago and its a bit fuzzy now.

It was totally rotted and the body was all but falling off if not for some bolts at the bottom of the firewall, There might have been mounts in the back as well.

A pic of how it was found. It was from the farm auction ad.

The guy before me tossed the fenders, running boards, lights, running gear, and the interior.

The other two pics show the side of the chassis but I had already cut the rotten part off. And then how far it is channeled.

The small block Mopar that came in it was unknown so it got the Hemi.

Your chassis looks very close to mine before I went to work on it, but I do not see this skirt that I referred to on your body.

Maybe I'm not remembering correctly.

Love your coupe and following with interest.

 

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5 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:

Matt, are you allowed to use cunifer lines? They are nickel copper alloy, actually have higher burst then steel. It is very easy to form and kind of looks like the original copper lines. Ted is moving along at lightening speed also. I think he used cunifer for his. 

Yes we are allowed to use conifer lines here , I probably should of gone that way. 
The copper was still in great condition after 92 years, I bet the steel won’t be as good after 50 years. 

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Do you get any sleep? At the rate your coming along with the project it's hard to believe you do. You make restoring one of those old cars look easy. 

 

 

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Looking for advice, Just cleaned out my gas tank with vinegar and then rinsed with water and used a blow dryer to dry it out.  It only had some surface rust.  Was very clean, just a few spider webs.  I have a light that goes inside to see all around, I looked good to start with and seems after cleaning out.  But before I install it on the car, looking for and advice / suggestions of what folks do if I should do more?   I don't really want to use that liner stuff I hear about?..  Thanks for any advice.

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I think I would swish some light oil, maybe even cooking oil around in it. That will keep it from rusting until you put gas back in it and start driving. But with you and Matt, racing to get finished that could be in a week or two. 

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2 minutes ago, nearchoclatetown said:

I think I would swish some light oil, maybe even cooking oil around in it. That will keep it from rusting until you put gas back in it and start driving. But with you and Matt, racing to get finished that could be in a week or two. 

Thank you 😊 

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If you want to check for leaks, put some diesel (say half gallon?) in the tank, it will seep out of places that petrol/gasolene won't and leave a slightly oily mark, easy to see. Slosh it around and leave for a day or so. If you really want to get excited, add a bit of pressure (not too much) from an air compressor. Just put a nozzle into the tank and seal with a bit of rag, I does not have to be absolutely air tight. That seems to atomise the diesel and any leaks will show up quicker. Have used this many times when making tanks for 4X4's. 

John

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Update on the 1928 Dodge Brothers Victory Six 5 Window Coupe. Put in the Break Lines, Break Cylinders, Gas Line & Gas Tank. Also rebuilt the Master Break Cylinder & working on figuring out how to restore the Gas Gauge that is mounted on the rear on the gas tank. I am using the original one from the car and another spare for parts to hopefully make one good one, may need to make or find a part two to complete it. Will give you an update on the gas gauge when I get more done. Also getting ready for the first test drive 😀 Hope you enjoy, see you soon...

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Looking great. I should be getting my master cylinder back this week I sent it away to get a stainless steel sleeve. 
My gas tank was totalled so I’m in the middle of making a new one. 
👍👍

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Hello Ted, Firstly I must congratulate you on your restoration of the RR and also your Victory Coupe . I am asking a favor if possible as to whether you can email me a photo of your tank gasoline gauge face. I would like to have one reproduced for my 2249 Senior that I am restoring The one that I purchased from Tom and Cindy Myers is incorrect for my car My email is rlkl1@bigpond.com Thank you  Ron

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2 hours ago, Mattml430 said:

Do you put any adhesive on the shoes Teddy. I’ve never done my own shoes before, you’ve done a nice job of them. 

No. I’ve done a few before and never glued and had success 

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1 hour ago, Ron Lawson said:

Hello Ted, Firstly I must congratulate you on your restoration of the RR and also your Victory Coupe . I am asking a favor if possible as to whether you can email me a photo of your tank gasoline gauge face. I would like to have one reproduced for my 2249 Senior that I am restoring The one that I purchased from Tom and Cindy Myers is incorrect for my car My email is rlkl1@bigpond.com Thank you  Ron

I am going to do the same. I am taking two different one and hoping to get them reproduced as well. I’ll get some good pics of what I have

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4 hours ago, Ted Levitt said:

I am going to do the same. I am taking two different one and hoping to get them reproduced as well. I’ll get some good pics of what I have

If you would like to get 2 done of the one in your post I  would gladly pay for it as well as postage to Australia. Talk to Matt and if he needs one then we can double up and post them together Thanks for your reply Ron 

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32 minutes ago, Ron Lawson said:

If you would like to get 2 done of the one in your post I  would gladly pay for it as well as postage to Australia. Talk to Matt and if he needs one then we can double up and post them together Thanks for your reply Ron 

Sounds good. I’ll get to work on it my friend. 

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