Restoring Exterior Trim

[Guest]

How does one restore the trim or where can it be sent to be done? How much can you expect to pay to get it done? I am restoring a personal driver 57 Special. I want it to look good but probably can't afford "show" quality. Right now the trim isn't real bad, just a few small dings and the red stipe is dull. Any ideas, resources and anyone in Colorado who does this? I can ship it out if necessary. If I did send it out to be done, how long does it take? Boy, don't I sound like a novice... Wait, I am!<P>------------------<BR>Mike Grosshans<BR> FFNitro@Netscape.Net <BR>303-755-2114<BR><B>BCA# 36411</B><BR><I>56' Special<BR>57' Special</I>

[brad54]

I did a magazine story with a guy in Minnesota who does this for a living. He's not cheap, but his work is perfect.<BR>I can't afford him either, but what I would strongly recommend is calling him and getting a couple of small bottles of his "George Iverson's Secret Sauce." It's the final polish that will take all the final haze out of your stainless. He also might have a copy of the article I wrote in Mopar Muscle, and may send you a copy. This is something you can do at home, but you need the right stuff.<BR>A buffing wheel is required, with several buffs, or pads, for the different compounds. Also, you'll need a small orbital sander and several different grits of sand paper. Iverson has a specific procedure of what grits to use, and what buffing compounds to use, and he'll share that with you (it's on the back of his business cards).<BR>Finally, you can get the buffing motor and polish from Eastwood. It's a fairly hefty investment, but if you ever want to do a second car, it'll pay for itself. Or if you get good, you can start doing other people's and charge them for it, like George did.<BR>Finally, there's a book on the subject that will show you everything you need to know on how to remove the small dings, dents, etc. "How to Restore Metal Auto Trim," by Jeff Lilly, published by Motor Books International. Your local book store can order it in.<BR>I will disagree with the parts in there about grinding down the high spots in the trim. This thins the metal, and will create hot spots while polishing, or worse yet you could grind through and ruin the piece. <BR>George Iverson's phone number is (612) 932-9026, or 800-325-0480. Tell him Brad sent you.<BR>If you do it yourself, you'll also need to get a couple pairs of heavy welder's gloves, a full face shield, an apron or sacrificial denim pants, and a charcoal filter to breath through. <BR>Hope this helps.<BR>Good luck!<BR>-Brad

[Guest]

Hi Mike:<P>I believe you are talking acout your stainless trim. The dents can be removed and the stainless buffed to a show quality (no marks or swirls for approx $350 for a 57 buick. (10 pieces) You would then have to paint the red after. My plating shop also polishes stainless. <P>Peter de Jong

[palbuick]

As long as your car will be an every day driver, Use stripping tape for the red insert,<BR>Some parts stores still carry the stipping tape, You might have to buy a couple of different widths, but a lot cheaper and easier than trying to paint in this stripe.<P>Jim Schilf / palbuick@aol.com

[Guest]

Check out the lastest Car Craft. There is an article of restoring the metal.

[Guest]

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll check out everything before I decide what to do. I do have the time... more so than $. That probably sounds familiar! HA! I really like this forum... it helps us new guys out.<BR>Thanks again,<BR><P>------------------<BR>Mike Grosshans<BR> FFNitro@Netscape.Net <BR>303-755-2114<BR><B>BCA# 36411</B><BR><I>56' Special<BR>57' Special</I>

[Guest]

Regarding polishing stainless trim.<P>I had a chance to look at the Eastwood site and the equipment they recommended for polishing stainless including their 3/4 hp motor and buffing wheels. I fail to see how scratched stainless can be polished properly with this equipment and the buffing wheel shown. <BR>Without giving away trade secrets I use a 10 hp lathe 6 feet long with several different polishing wheels and compounds. The extra length on the lathe gives us the ability to cross grain the stainless trim at any lenght. <BR>For taking out dents it is nessesary to rough up the stainless to level it out and mask the dent or scratch. Care must be taken in this, a maximim of a 300 compound wheel must be used. The trick is to staighten as much of the dent as possible. The problem with stainless is you can't use fillers used in body work. It can be welded and repaired even if it's twisted. So don't throw it out repair it.<BR>The eastwood kit is for buffing only and would not be effective for repair or scrathes because it has no compound. Stainless is not easy to polish because of it's hardness. Aluminum is much easier.Finished stainless should have no swirls or scratches under a florescent light. <BR>Hope this helps.<P>Peter de Jong<P>Plater polisher<BR><P>------------------<BR>