1931 Chrysler CD8 Roadster Rebuild Diary

[Gunsmoke]

I figure the glass was fitted with a stick on cloth tape (about consistency of cloth friction tape( wrapped along each edge about 1/4", and the glass with taped edges slipped into the brass insert, which btw had 90 degree overlapping bends at corners. (I haven't figured out the brass insert was curved for lower rail? The edged glass (with tape and brass trim) was then slipped into lower rail and side pieces. Then the top rail would be installed. The glass unit would be a tad undersized for frame, but the beads on the brass insert would prevent glass from going too deep into groove and tapped fully into groove  to keep glass fitting neatly. In any event, a visit to the glazers this week may reveal what is available to accomplish a neat similar "dry fit". The groove in the frame is a tight 3/8" wide, and about 5/16" deep. 

Edited August 22, 2022 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[1930 Kram66]

Coincidently I am getting my windscreen made this week from a template I made from 6mm MDF. So very interested in this topic.

My 66 also has a brass insert for the glass the same as your car. Also on mine the glass sit's on what looks like string inside the brass insert. I did not notice remnants any form of cloth tape.

Though that would make sense thinking about it - maybe to help keep water out. Something I will look at, thanks.

Something to consider is modern laminated glass is thicker than the original glass hence the 6mm thick template. I found that I had to spread the brass insert apart considerably to allow the template to fit in it.

I'll know soon if it all fits back together.

Your car is coming along nicely.☺️

[viv w]

An interesting discussion. It would appear that the earlier cars may not have had the brass insert and perhaps during production they started using the brass insert to make fitting a lot easier.

 A stick on tape to the glass sounds a good idea. I have used black 3M Temflex friction tape, for wrapping wiring looms etc, but it would be ideal for your purpose.

 I wonder if your brass insert was painted or nickel/chrome plated??

[1930 Kram66]

On mine the brass insert was nickel  plated.

[Gunsmoke]

Unfortunately I only have a couple of scraps of the brass insert, not something that any one is reproducing I suspect. I pulled out a small scrap of the "tape" and it is about consistency of friction tape and a similar fine cloth. Their system was quite ingenious. Assuming they fit tape to glass and then brass/nickel insert over tape and then slipped assembly into frame, any slight fit issues could be fixed by just tapping nickel strip tight to frame. While I didn't see any evidence of an adhesive on insert, after 90 years who knows if there was some? The frames I started with were painted black originally, some later cars had chromed frames. I have not noticed this "insert" on any CD8 frames so will have to do some more serious looking. Think they may have been set in a rubber U seal.

[Gunsmoke]

The frame groove is under 3/8" wide, and safety glass is just under 1/4" so about 1/8" space to make up. The auto glass shop guy suggests using what he called glazing felt, a long used product from years ago often used for setting glass in quarter windows and doors, etc. It is some sort of felt type product with a waterproofing of some sort, about 1.5" wide in a roll. He would wrap edges of glass (might need 2 or 3 layers, I note the insert I have has 2 layers of cloth) and tape the product in place temporarily while he sets glass snugly into frame. Once together, excess would be trimmed off. He is not aware of anyone selling a rubber U channel for safety glass (or any other suitable channel), but indicated someone may make such a product. I'm not ready to install glass yet, plan to have frame powder-coated beforehand. I know the Filling Station in Oregon sells a variety of rubber channels as do Steele rubber Products, I checked Steele catalog, nothing suitable.

Edited August 22, 2022 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[viv w]

Hi,

I would think the chances of finding a brass insert will be slim. If I was in your place I would make up a bit of fabric welting (see pic below).  Use a black vinyl which has a bit of stretch and then glue it to the glass before inserting it into the frame. My model 52 was fitted like this and it never leaked even in heavy rain.

[Gunsmoke]

Ingenious option, I will consider it. Sliding glass into a 3 sided stiff frame with tape on sides is likely a tricky thing to do, perhaps some soapy water would help. That was one of the advantages of the brass insert, once on the glass it would slide into frame easily. I looked at several restored CD8's no evidence of an insert on any of those, but may have been lost during restoration. Won't be installing glass for a few months likely, so lots of time to reflect on best approach. I may get a small piece of safety glass from the shop and experiment with some solutions like you suggest. The lower corner curves will be a challenge, little wonder shops just use silicone.

[Gunsmoke]

After fitting the socket clamps for the top, time to make the soffit for front bow. Bought a piece of 18 ga stainless steel 4.25x48 and had shop break one edge 5/16" with rounded corner. After carefully locating all the screw connectors to top clamps and drilling out the 7/8" stanchion holes (means putting it together and apart 7 or 8 times!), I secured it in place and marked for trimming to suit bows. Then drilled and countersunk 6 holes for stainless screws into bow. For now I drilled and rasped a slot for each 3/8" clamping bolt. I set soffit so inside edge abuts the top clamp bracket to side of bow, did not want to take it any further into cabin than necessary. The soffit seems plenty stiff and should need no further material. It hides most of the top clamp when sitting in car. Might eventually be a convenient spot for storing a cell phone, papers, etc (no glove box) so may eventually line with felt or something quiet. Area around bolt may need tweaking depending on upholster's thoughts, but I see him making a 1/2" pocket to go around bolt.

[keiser31]

Very cool idea!

[Gunsmoke]

Now that top is fitted it is time to address the truncated stanchion tips. A PO 60 yrs ago cut about 1"+ off them and also flattened fore and aft a bit as well as drilling holes for wingbolts, and additional holes for home made windwings. So brazed all the key places and decided to put a bit of a dome on them as well. Then used the angle grinder with a couple of different coarse disks to get them close for a final pad sanding. These will likely be powder-coated eventually.

[Narve N]

Looks very much alike the repros in stainless I have laying around (bought for my Series 65 project), that are still requiring lots of sanding to gain any gloss. Could you post a picture with measurements?

Edited August 26, 2022 by Narve N
misspelling (see edit history)

[Gunsmoke]

Not sure what measurements you mean, key one is center of pivot to center of 1" square hole is 8". Note from this photo that the "square hole" is actually somewhat off square on side facing rear, maybe for ease in installing locking blocks, or just a casting anomaly. It does not affect anything since wing bolt forces lock blocks to front face of opening. I understand the lower stanchion varied among models and makes (DPCD) due to shape of cowl, but many of the upper arms were common. 

[Gunsmoke]

I've been encouraged to take the Chrysler down to a car show tomorrow (Sunday Sept 18) on the Waverley Village Green, so spent a few hours putting some things on to show progress to date. While it is not ready for driving or showing, in many cases crowds like to see the occasional project car, ask lots of questions and are often amazed at how these old girls are built and restored. As previously mentioned, I have one "decent " front fender, still sorting a driver side fender.

 

I've always been intrigued by Chrysler's modesty when it came to a front badge, the brass one is all original and is about size of a quarter. Chrysler script can only be read from about 1 foot away!

 

The crank hole cover came as you see it from the rough donor sedan, is mint except for a small chip on black porcelain.

 

Engine bay needs some clean up later today, mostly dust. However, last summer when I was renovating house and guest cottage, car was ignored in garage which was open for long periods as I needed tools etc. Regrettably I did not have dehumidifier on and was not paying attention to car and dampness did a lot of damage to primed and some painted items, as well as bare metal surfaces like starter/generator ends. Will necessitate refurbishing these parts at some point over winter. Will also eventually paint the air cleaner. Butterfly heat riser cable is shown coming thru factory hole in firewall, where I will eventually replace the rubber grommet and cover, but not sure this is where it should be located. Cable sheaf is stiff steel, not easily bent, seems it should come thru wall at a lower point and directly to butterfly at underside of manifold.

 

I show one rear wheel. I had these sand-blasted and primed (not epoxy) but mentioned dampness last summer knocked off every evidence of primer and re-rusted them (grrr..). So will need attention. Any hints on straightening a bent lock ring?

 

I may have mentioned I have 2 options for wheels and hubs. The original 18" wires from the sedan are severely pitted, and the lock rings are questionable so they will need a lot of work. I have a set of near mint 19" wires from a Marmon which I had powder coated 5 years ago. Chrysler hubcaps fit them perfectly as do the Auburn hubs (2 1931's, 2 1935's) that came with the Roadster when I found it, and Auburn hubs fit Chrysler axles with an adaptor I got machined 5 years ago. I may use the Marmon's initially while I search out better CD8 wheels, get them re-spoked etc, and find a way to sort out good lockrings. 

 

All part of the journey of "re-building" a car from the ashes. Possibility of rain in forecast for tomorrow, so car show may get cancelled.

 

 

 

 

[24Chry48]

It's looking really good!!!!

[Gunsmoke]

Only been looking for one of these for 8 years, first one I have ever seen for sale, and it is complete assembly, one year only production, gobbled it up quickly on eBay, hope to have it here in 2 weeks, thanks to viv w for tipping me off about it. "All things come to he who waits".

[Gunsmoke]

Tail/stoplight finally arrived this week, took a while as seller would not ship internationally! So had to ship to a friend in Maine and then redirect to me, meant paying twice for shipping and some delay, but what choices does one have! Cleaned it up with some soap and water, cleaned off some old paint overspray and test fitted it to car. Internal wiring is brittle and will need replacing, but otherwise complete. This is the last major piece I needed to finish rebuild of this old girl. Note stanchion also serves to secure bumper to car. 

[24Chry48]

If you hadn't found your taillight, I ran across one at Hershey. It was missing the word Chrysler in the center, but I have a template to reproduce that. I didn't buy it, but I am sure it will be there next year.

[Gunsmoke]

So I've been busy with other stuff and finally getting back to the roadster. When I was putting body back on chassis I noticed it appeared the rear spring horns were slightly tilted (not plumb) as shown in this photo from about 18 months ago. I eventually installed bumper and everything looked "OK" until I installed the recently purchased tail/stop light. As can be seen, the "tilt" of the frame end causes the face of the light to be about 5/8" out of plumb. I can plumb the light be shimming the mounting bracket about 1/4" as shown. So what to do? Thinking I may need to buy some steel tapered shims (like used for rear axle tilting) and drill them and place/tack to ends of frame to get proper plumb. These would fit behind the apron and not be seen. anyone ever encounter this, have a suggestion?  

[viv w]

Looking at your pictures, I think the tail light stanchion and number plate bracket may be bent just under the tail light. I wouls take the light off and tweak the stanchion  rather than add shims

Edited April 27, 2023 by viv w (see edit history)

[Gunsmoke]

I show a few photos of the upper area of the stanchion and a couple of a pair of original stanchions (L&R)(photo with plumb was taken with about 5/16" wood shim on upper edge of C mounting against bumper, tilting stanchion rearward 5/8"). I checked very carefully for any evidence of distortion on the upper or lower parts of the stanchion, which was my first thought. But as can be seen, the upper mounting area is contoured in a complex set of compound curves to fit snug against both the bullet light bucket and the license plate bracket, and all 3 fit perfectly, and the 1/4x20 bolts have no wiggle room (in other words no adjustment). There is no other evidence that any of this end of the stanchion has been bent, and I cannot imagine it could have been bent without destroying the light. The long part of the stanchion is also dead straight, and most of it has original paint. The stanchions are made of 1/8" thick steel not easy to distort.

 

The rear frame horns are clearly tilted, and causing the bumper to tilt upwards slightly as well as tilting the light. An alternative to altering with shims at frame horn, would be to add 1/4" weld build up to the lower end of the stanchion where the "C" shape fits against the bumper support. Would be just a matter of adding a 1/4" of weld to upper part of this C shape and filling neatly, causing stanchion to tilt further rearward. 

 

The other interesting detail is the license plate bracket drifts back snug against the stanchion, and this causes the plate to be tilted upwards a few degrees. Good for shining the light on it, but normally plates are vertical! I must check some internet pics and see what other CD8 Roadsters show.

Edited April 28, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[V.Milke]

Just found your post.... great job! It will help me a lot understand many details on my car.

Congratulations!
Victor

[r1lark]

This is one of my most favorite threads on the AACA forum! 

[Gunsmoke]

thanks r!lark, guess I better get off my butt and do some more work.

[Gunsmoke]

This is a bit of a tale of woe in my efforts to rebuild this rare car, and maybe a lesson or 2 for those in the hobby who have not made a mistake like this. I may have mentioned a few months ago that during an 18 month layoff from paying any attention to the project (spring 2021-Fall 2022), the garage and workshop were often left open to the elements as I was using woodworking gear day and night. I did not have dehumidifier in place as it was being used during the house renovations. One day I took a walk around the car and was shocked to find the whole chassis had turned into a rust ball.

 

As mentioned earlier, in 2018/19 I had a donor car chassis stripped, sandblasted, primed and then painted (premium Tremclad). See photo from 2019 of car rolling chassis at car show. Obviously something was incompatible.

 

So for the past year as I tackled some other work on car (and finished house/property renovations), the dilemma remained. Do I take everything on chassis back apart and start over.  So this week I stripped all the easily removable pieces, hubs/drums, brake backing plates, tie rods, drag link, steering gear, and front axle. 

 

As shown in photos, the drag link was the worst for some reason, but I have a second similar one I will use, slightly different as it has dual springs versus single springs on ends. Similarly, I have a second tie rod in excellent shape I cleaned up already. The drums will need wire brushing and cleaning. Same for brake backing plates on outer/back side only (see pick of one as originally painted for comparison), the inside seems to have done fine. The front axle/steering arms will need a full going over, and all the hanger bolts/plates need full redo including cleaning all threads. Before re-installing parts, I will also clean up the springs and any chassis pieces I can see, including shocks. Have decided I will not remove body, I expect chassis covered by body likely survived OK.  Once everything else is done, I will get car on a hoist and clean up underneath.

 

Not wanting to get into a multi step process (like POR 15) I was advised to buy a quart of DOM 16, an ultimate rust preventive coating available at CarQuest (about $60USD per quart). I'm told by some car restorers this product works very effectively, and does not require sand blasting. Surfaces need only be wire brushed or otherwise cleaned of loose material, cleaned thoroughly (with a common cleaner like brake cleaner), and then washed with soap and water. Once dry, DOM 16 can be applied with brush, spray etc.

 

I'm hoping this time I'll be successful. Considered sending everything out for blasting and epoxy priming, but......

 

Any thought or suggestions welcome. 

 

 

Edited August 8, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[Gunsmoke]

Need help deciphering the 2 steering arms (aka pitman arms). Both of these pitman arms (Chrysler refers to them as steering arms) came to me as Chrysler arms (one was on a CD8 Sedan donor car which had been hit hard front left), and I'm trying to determine just what they are. Both sort of fit the spline on the sector shaft for my '31 CD8 steering box, but will not go fully on. The longer, one is 10" and has holes 8" C/C, 1" thick and goes on spline about 11/16" and is stamped F-20176-1-1 (? Jan '31?). The shorter arm (which came on donor car) is 8.5" long and 6.5" CC, 1" thick and also on spline about 11/16" and is stamped F-21422. Neither of these part/casting numbers matches the steering arms listed in the pre 1934 Chrysler parts list. Normally I would expect a pitman arm to go almost fully onto the spline,,i.e. about 7/8"-15/16".

 

Can someone check other Mopar models parts list, Dodge etc and tell me if these stamping #'s show up? Or does anyone know the specific details for a CD8 steering arm. Chrysler lists the CD8 steering arm as part # 314607. Thanks. 

Edited August 9, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[jukejunkie1015]

On 8/9/2023 at 1:34 PM, Gunsmoke said:

Need help deciphering the 2 steering arms (aka pitman arms). Both of these pitman arms (Chrysler refers to them as steering arms) came to me as Chrysler arms (one was on a CD8 Sedan donor car which had been hit hard front left), and I'm trying to determine just what they are. Both sort of fit the spline on the sector shaft for my '31 CD8 steering box, but will not go fully on. The longer, one is 10" and has holes 8" C/C, 1" thick and goes on spline about 11/16" and is stamped F-20176-1-1 (? Jan '31?). The shorter arm (which came on donor car) is 8.5" long and 6.5" CC, 1" thick and also on spline about 11/16" and is stamped F-21422. Neither of these part/casting numbers matches the steering arms listed in the pre 1934 Chrysler parts list. Normally I would expect a pitman arm to go almost fully onto the spline,,i.e. about 7/8"-15/16".

 

Can someone check other Mopar models parts list, Dodge etc and tell me if these stamping #'s show up? Or does anyone know the specific details for a CD8 steering arm. Chrysler lists the CD8 steering arm as part # 314607. Thanks. 

I can only go by what is on mine but there is no stamped number and 6 1/2" between centers on the bolts. That being said I have an original Chrysler Eight De Luxe Parts List but finding the original and correct parts is almost impossible.

[Gunsmoke]

Thanks JJ, my shorter one came on a CD8 donor car and visually looks like yours in size and appearance. On mine, the stamping # is on inside in area abutting chassis. Would it be possible for you to measure distance from face of round area of pitman arm to end of sector shaft? Looks to be about 1/2"-5/8"? (i.e. depth of lock washer and nut.) I'm looking for a correct nut, I think sector gear thread on mine is 7/8"x16tpi. While the pitman arm nut (in parts list) is same part for CD8 cars and CD* (deluxe) cars, the Chrysler pre 1934 parts book indicates the pitman arm and sector gear (worm wheel) are different for the CD8 and the Deluxe CD*. So I am now curious if the shorter arm I have might be off a Deluxe CD*? If you can find stamping, that may tell me something. Meanwhile, if anyone has a spare CD8/Deluxe CD* pitman arm nut, let me know?

[Gunsmoke]

So I spent a few days cleaning rust off the myriad wheel, brake drum, and suspension parts. It is puzzling just why the rust seemed to appear so quickly and what it looks like. In a before/after photo below of the passenger front spring, the rust is significant. However, to clean it, mild wire brush work (on drill) took 95% of it off and it appeared in mostly powdered form, like the applied paint had just turned to orange powder. The parts have also had an initial cleaning with brake cleaner, and before painting with DOM 16 will be subject to a final cleaning. I was advised that the pieces did not need to be sandblasted (freed of all evidence of rust) but just cleaned of all loose rust, dirt, grime, oil etc. So time will tell, I plan to paint these pieces in next few days, and depending on how that goes, decide on further steps for rest of chassis, engine side pans, oil pan etc, etc. NO FUN!

 

BTW, there have been discussions over the years on springs, to paint or leave natural and/or apply oil/grease now and then. What are suggestions? 

Edited August 25, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[24Chry48]

I painted my springs, as well as all the suspension parts and frame. It is my understanding that on these cars, the entire chassis should be painted the same color as the fenders. My fenders are maroon, so everything underneath is maroon.

[Gunsmoke]

Interesting thought about chassis color matching main body color or fender colors. I cannot imagine rolling chassis were anything but all black, the assembly line process would have been a challenge if chassis and bodies/fenders had to match up. I know some high end models like Cadillac often had color coordinated chassis (like a red chassis under a silver body with red trim) but never considered it for Chrysler. Since I've yet to settle on final body color, it's all black for now.  

Edited August 27, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[Gunsmoke]

Got a free day today, so did a final cleaning and painted the various parts which had been removed 2/3 weeks ago, very rusted. They turned out well, (see drag link compared to one I removed from car) the DOM 16 product resulted in a hard coating, hopefully will bond chemically as they advertise. Will likely let cure for a couple of days. Manufacturer suggests covering with a coat of paint to prevent fading and chalking over time, but does not say what paint to use. Will need to do a bit of research, likely just use spray cans in semi-gloss black. Any thoughts?

 

Also still have to decide what to do with rest of chassis and some other pieces that have shown some rust (shocks, rear axle, engine side-pans, etc). I'll likely wait a couple of weeks to be sure the product works as advertised. Crawling under car will not be fun. I have 6 jack stands that can raise it about 20" off floor, wish I knew someone with a hoist I could use for a day or 2. I may wait until wheels are on and car is mobile and take it somewhere to get underside redone.

[24Chry48]

On 8/11/2023 at 3:56 PM, jukejunkie1015 said:

I can only go by what is on mine but there is no stamped number and 6 1/2" between centers on the bolts. That being said I have an original Chrysler Eight De Luxe Parts List but finding the original and correct parts is almost impossible.

I checked this part on my roadster and the part number corresponds with your one F 20176. Mine is a first series.

[keiser31]

3 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:

Got a free day today, so did a final cleaning and painted the various parts which had been removed 2/3 weeks ago, very rusted. They turned out well, (see drag link compared to one I removed from car) the DOM 16 product resulted in a hard coating, hopefully will bond chemically as they advertise. Will likely let cure for a couple of days. Manufacturer suggests covering with a coat of paint to prevent fading and chalking over time, but does not say what paint to use. Will need to do a bit of research, likely just use spray cans in semi-gloss black. Any thoughts?

 

Also still have to decide what to do with rest of chassis and some other pieces that have shown some rust (shocks, rear axle, engine side-pans, etc). I'll likely wait a couple of weeks to be sure the product works as advertised. Crawling under car will not be fun. I have 6 jack stands that can raise it about 20" off floor, wish I knew someone with a hoist I could use for a day or 2. I may wait until wheels are on and car is mobile and take it somewhere to get underside redone.

John Deere Blitz Black for tractors is a good paint for long-lasting.

 

[JACK M]

11 hours ago, keiser31 said:

John Deere Blitz Black for tractors is a good paint for long-lasting.

 

This is what the JD Blitz black looks like.

[Gunsmoke]

This past week I managed to get the front end put back together, springs and shackles/silent blocks, axle, tie rod, pitman  arm and draglink. Fortunately, all the guts for these pieces (ball joints, ball face bearings, springs, end nuts were in excellent condition, although it took some time to fit everything to specs. Still missing a couple of correct size cotter pins. Set toe-in at about 1/8", max recommended in manual. Will plan to clean and paint chassis in these areas before putting brake backing plates and drums on. The Dom 16 product gave a very nice hard gloss finish, hope it holds up. Still looking for a correct 7/8" 16tpi pitman arm nut.

Edited September 10, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[viv w]

Hi Gunsmoke, I like following your progress, it is always nice to see someone else is restoring another rare car.

 Just an observation, those front leaf springs do not look right. They look as if they have lost their strength, and may need resetting, retempering or even replacing. It may also explain why you are having problems with your steering pitman arm.

  The spring appears to be  curving the wrong way. All the cars I have restored, the middle where the centre bolt goes should be at the bottom, with the spring ends curving upwards towards the eyes.

 Hopefully someone else with a CD8 will chime in, best regards

Viv.

[keiser31]

4 hours ago, viv w said:

Hi Gunsmoke, I like following your progress, it is always nice to see someone else is restoring another rare car.

 Just an observation, those front leaf springs do not look right. They look as if they have lost their strength, and may need resetting, retempering or even replacing. It may also explain why you are having problems with your steering pitman arm.

  The spring appears to be  curving the wrong way. All the cars I have restored, the middle where the centre bolt goes should be at the bottom, with the spring ends curving upwards towards the eyes.

 Hopefully someone else with a CD8 will chime in, best regards

Viv.

I agree with this. Those springs look like they need to be re-arched. Bob Scafani may have that nut you need.

Edited September 11, 2023 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[Gunsmoke]

Thanks for your thoughts Viv and K31. These are the front springs that came with the 1931 CD8 donor sedan I brought up from Virginia, as is the axle and other front end components (except drag link, which I think is for similar Chrysler cars). I did notice they are essentially flat when fully loaded. They have several inches arc at rest. Not sure how much arc they should have loaded. The less arch, the lower the car will generally ride, always a desirable style preference. The original set had one broken ply on one side, and when I took them to a shop to replace that ply, they put one new ply with matching arc in both sets to ensure even springing. I do have a second set that came on my roadster, must get them out and see what condition they are in.

Edited September 14, 2023 by Gunsmoke (see edit history)

[keiser31]

1 hour ago, Gunsmoke said:

Thanks for your thoughts Viv and K31. These are the front springs that came with the 1931 CD8 donor sedan I brought up from Virginia, as is the axle and other front end components (except drag link, which I think is for similar Chrysler cars). I did notice they are essentially flat when fully loaded. They have several inches arc at rest. Not sure how much arc they should have loaded. The less arch, the lower the car will generally ride, always a desirable style preference. The original set had one broken ply on one side, and when I took them to a shop to replace that ply, they put one new ply with matching arc in both sets to ensure even springing. I do have a second set that came on my roadster, must get them out and see what condition they are in.

When I was 17, I had these guys make a front, main leaf spring on my 1931 DB coupe. I had them match the other side to the factory specs that they built into the new leaf. They also made me a spring steel front bumper bracket for the same car.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/