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For Sale: 1952 Hudson Wasp - $10,750 - Westminster, CO - Project - Not Mine - Price Reduced to $8,500, Feb '21 - SOLD!!!


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For Sale: 1952 Hudson Wasp - $10,750 - Westminster, CO - Project - Price Reduced to $8,500, Feb '21, see below. -SOLD!!!

1952 Hudson Wasp! - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale (craigslist.org)

We have decided to sell our beautiful classic 1952 Hudson Wasp! It's a 262 Flathead 4-door sedan.
This antique is nearing the end of it's restoration so it will be a great project to finish up if you want, or you can drive it as is. The goal has been to keep it as original as we can. This classic car gets so much attention when you drive it, and it is has been a wonderful experience for our children to ride around in. Once you look at the pictures you will be impressed with the professional work that has been done to this car.  We just spent $2,600 on some extra work two weeks ago, so we are not in a rush to sell it for a low ball price. Only serious inquiries.

We have a ton of information on the restoration work throughout the years, but here is the summary of the specs, the work done, and what is remaining to be completed. I have been as thorough as I can to provide this info so you know exactly what you are buying.
Completed Work (alot of extra detail available):
1. Factory Engine fully restored
2. Carburetors rebuilt (we have extra jets to change the performance)
3. Interior fabric fully restored with the exception of the headliner
4. Trunk completely redone (see pics)
5. Roof restored to a beautiful cream/white color
6. New audio wiring run from original radio to the trunk (if you want to add extra speakers)
7. All new glass
8. Previous owner replaced the gas tank, but it's only a 12 gallon tank.
9. New Gear Reduction Starter

Most Recent $2,600 Repairs:
Fuel leak at tank - repair.
Sediment bowl seal dissolving - replace.
Charge battery.
1) Brake master cylinder leaking:
-Replace brake master cylinder, fabricate pushrod extension.
-Flush and bleed brakes.
2) Right outer tie rod end is very worn.
- Source and replace tie rod end.
3) Right rear brake is tight even after parking brake has been released.
-Replace parking brake return springs with correct ones.
-Free up cables in housings, lube and adjust.
4) Large amount of steering play.
-Adjust steering box.
Note: More work inside the box is needed - still a great deal of play at the steering wheel.
Plus the other 3 tie rod ends are worn enough to be adding to the steering wheel play.
5) Air filters holding chokes closed:
-Adjust chokes - hanging up on air filter housing.
-Adjust idle speed and mix on both carbs.

Remaining Work: We had this car looked over and worked on by Thomas Vintage Restorations over in Louisville. Here is what they see that needs to be done:
Mechanical:
1. Continue adjusting the steering to tighten up the play.
2. Replace the other 3 tie rod ends
3. Replace the drive shaft U-Joints
4. Replace Transmission / rear motor mounts
5. Suspension bushings worn in front end
6. Shift linkage is sloppy
7. Left front wheel bearing loose
8. There are minor oil leaks but nothing that raised any serious concern with Thomas Vintage.

Cosmetic:
1. Interior Headliner (We have the metal headliner braces)
2. Exterior surface rust and two rusted spots under the front headlights
3. Re-chrome if you want

Other Items on my Personal to be fixed list:
1. Reconnect the original temperature gauge (remove under dash tachometer)
2. Adjust wiper blade pulleys to restore operation, work with Thomas Vintage on this piece
3. Replace original radio speaker cone. The car has had the audio wiring professionally done, but the speaker needs fixing.
Contact:  no phone listed.

Copy and paste in your email:   614069fab3e13e3fbf0f29fc6b8a0a9c@sale.craigslist.org

 

I have no personal interest or stake in the eventual sale of this 1952 Hudson Wasp sedan - Project.

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Edited by 58L-Y8
Price reduction to $8,500 - Feb '21 - SOLD!!! (see edit history)
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  • 58L-Y8 changed the title to For Sale: 1952 Hudson Wasp - $10,750 - Westminster, CO - Project - Not Mine - Price Reduced to $8,500, Feb '21
2 hours ago, Hudsy Wudsy said:

I'll add that I'm a little puzzled by the air cleaner position issue. 

That is necessary on short wheel base Hudsons. Not enough room at firewall.

They also use different carbs and manifold and linkage then the long wheel base cars

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6 minutes ago, roysboystoys said:

That is necessary on short wheel base Hudsons. Not enough room at firewall.

They also use different carbs and manifold and linkage then the long wheel base cars

I suppose that you're right. I must have seen it before, but it strikes me as odd at the moment.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm putting in an offer on this vehicle to replace my current 1965 Galaxie 500 XL fastback as my daily.  My total mileage just passed 31k and I don't want to add any more miles to the clock.  I just turned 38 and came from previously owning mostly 90s BMWs and toyotas.  It's been very rewarding working on my old ford FE 390 and I've learned a lot.

  I'm a huge Hudson fan and feel like this car would be a great driver, and I look forward to learning all the quirks.  Not planning on doing a restoration, just looking to keep her well sorted mechanically.

  I would love to hear any advice from the vastly more experienced contributors here on what I can look forward to and what I should watch out for.  I know Xander said he daily drove one also so I would really love to hear more a about this. 

  I'm a 100% disabled Vet, and currently volunteer to provide transportation to other vets to their VA Healthcare appointments.  They really enjoy getting to ride in style to their appointments and going through drive-ins for a burger and shake on the way home in classics.  I really think the Hudson would be a real hoot for everyone. And probably a lot more comfortable than my Galaxie as well.

   Thank you all in advance, I'm 100% new to Hudson and pre 1960's cars in general.

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Thanks Ben, those are all very good points to consider.  A little more about me.  I live in northwest Oklahoma, very little rain and usually mild winters (until this year).  I have a dodge 2500 diesel 4x4 that I use for trailering livestock and picking up my ever growing collection of 60's F100 fords.  I also drive it in the nasty weather (snow/rain) when I absolutely have to leave the farm.  I'm also getting an AWD honda CRV from a family friend who just passed that has a bazillion miles but will be a good winter beater.

  I don't drive gravel/dirt roads unless I'm going after a field find in the truck.

99% of my driving is 2-lane blacktop in good condition, with occasionally short stretches of interstate to get to the VA in OKC or cars and coffee/cruise ins etc.

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Here is my first Hudson, a 52 Wasp sedan. Great driving car, my daily driver for a few years. All of the Hudson step downs are the same. Hornet, Wasp, Super 6, Pacemaker and Commodore. Just different trim and wheel base. 232, 262 and 308 engines, are all the same, some just have a few more cubes. Just try to get the best bang for your buck with your purchase. There are a lot of step downs on the market for sale. Look around and find the best one that fits your budget and ability. Can not go wrong with any of them. And you can go wrong with all of them, if you make a bad purchase. In 1952 every car drove in the snow/winter. Driving a old car in modern traffic is fun. Get in the lane you need for farther down the road. Go your own speed, and enjoy the windshield time. I have never gotten a speeding ticket in an old car. Maybe because I am not in a hurry to get some where when driving a older car. Where I am going will still be there when I get there.

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Edited by Xander Wildeisen (see edit history)
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A Hudson is no different than any other car. Look for quality of work done. Watch for rust in the rear frame/body area. Post pictures on here of any car you are looking at. Lots of knowledgeable people on this forum. And do NOT buy any 1952 Hornet club coupes. You do not want one. Please pass on to me their location.;)

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I'm actually buying the car in this posting.  I've spoken with the owner for several hours, gone over the 3 ring binder full of build photos and work orders.  I've also spoken with the mechanic that did the majority of the recent work at length. I feel about as confident as I can with it until I start putting miles on it and finding the gremlins.  

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You're in for a treat! I'm glad that the Wasp has a dual-action fuel pump. Vacuum wipers without that extra assist can be troubling to those who aren't used to their idiosyncrasy. One thing occurs to me to mention at the moment -- I don't think that the radiator cap should have anything more than a 5-7 pound cap on it. You should check soon after you get it. A quite nice looking '50 Commodore Six sold on here within the last month that needed a head gasket. You could tell from the description in the ad (and the photos that accompanied it) that it had just gotten a new radiator with a modern radiator cap. I don't know what pressure the new cap was, but '50 Hudsons came from the factory with five pound caps. In fact '50 was the first year they had any pressure at all in the cooling system. I don't know, but I suspect that some well-meaning soul put more pressure on the system than that vintage head gasket could take. Good luck with your new Wasp and let us all know your impressions.

PS The Hudson Wasp and Hornet weren't named for menacing flying insects. These were the post-war years and Hudson named those stellar performers for two of the famous aircraft carriers that helped win the war.

Edited by Hudsy Wudsy (see edit history)
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Very easy to build a fan shroud for the car. And a shield/deflector above the fuel/vac pump, to help block heat from the exhaust manifold. I had some issues with vapor locking when it got hot outside and sitting in traffic. You can also move the fuel line over a little bit. Hudson's are also a babe magnet. So get ready for that. Nothing screams you have made it, or you have arrived. Like a Hudson step down. Ask me how I know.:(:lol:

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The Wasp has beautifully shaped fuel lines. Someone took their time and did nice work. When you get it, you should ensure that the last bend before it enters the glass bowl fuel filter is lower than the point at which the line enters the carburetor. High points along the fuel line are where vapor-locking occurs. I'll throw out another thought, if I may. Early Hydramatics don't engage instantly when put into gear like later automatic transmissions. It's just their nature. I remember that characteristic spooked me a little with my first Hudson. Don't let it throw you.

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I'm so thankful for the advice.  Definitely a lot that wouldn't have occurred to me!

  We are tentatively planning to meet up on Friday, so as the days get closer I'm getting a lot more excited/anxious.

  

  I was wondering about the Wasp/Hornet naming convention.  I was a Navy Corpsman attached to Marine units from 1999 through 2005.  I hitched a ride on the USS Wasp (LHD 1), and have been to the Hornet floating museum in California.

 

  All insights/advice/comments etc are greatly appreciated!

  I know I'll be leaning on the community pretty hard to start out with.

Bonus, my Hudson shirt arrived today in time for my road trip.

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2 hours ago, 58L-Y8 said:

58L, I don't think that link goes where you expected it to. Perhaps you could try again.

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I do have two extra gauges on my 49. I replace the jewel lights for generator and oil pressure with new gauges. So the four gauges above the radio are modern. They look good, match the style of the dash. 49 Commodore had the best dash. That is why it is now in my 47. Will get new gauges as well. And repainted in the correct wood grain colors.

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Brought this beauty home last night.  15 hours round trip. I ended up having to take my truck and trailer.  I couldn't bribe, cajole, or trick any of my friends into making the trip so I could drive her back. 

  Waiting for the temperature outside to come up, then taking a trip to Bud's Salvage to look at his hudsons to see what I need to do to get my headliner put back together.

  He won't part out his hudsons and only sells them complate, so I might end up bringing another one home....

  I'll start a new thread in the Hudson pages to chronicle my (mis)adventures, and to hopefully keep up the discourse with you much more knowledgeable folks.

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If you need headliner bows I would look for some from a 1948-1954 Hudson stepdown 4-door sedan. A sedan requires 7 bows and they are all different lengths. If you remove some from a parts car make sure you number them or note their positions somehow from front to back. 

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Luckily all the bows are in the trunk. All the trim pieces are. The only thing I don't have is the twin H power badge. 

 Edit: started a new thread in the Hudson board.  Thank you all for the help so far! Feel free to join in on that thread as you have time/if you have the interest 😊

Edited by Hardluck1377 (see edit history)
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Glad you bought this Hudson, its gratifying to know these 'Not Mine' reposting of some Craigslist and from other sources possible choice selections worthy of consideration find new enthusiastic owners.  Good luck with your new Hudson, to many years of enjoyment and memorable experiences to come with it.

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  • 58L-Y8 changed the title to For Sale: 1952 Hudson Wasp - $10,750 - Westminster, CO - Project - Not Mine - Price Reduced to $8,500, Feb '21 - SOLD!!!

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