Hood hinge fasteners

[drovak]

Don't know the exact terminology, but the two screws that hold bracket fastening the hood hinge at the firewall have both pulled out on my '31 8-86. Seems like that's a high stress point.

 

 

 

What's the proper fix? Can I do anything to help alleviate this in the future?

[Robert Engle]

1932 Buicks have a similar piece, but it also has a metal plate on the inside of the cowl which have tapped holes.  In 1932 the screws were machine screws rather than your sheet metal type.  I am not sure that your screws are original.  I suspect someone replace the original screws.  I have not seen screw heads in 1932 with  that type of filisterhead/slotted type.

 

Bob Engle

[Steves Buick]

I agree with Bob, my 32 had a backing plate, bolts secure it. 

[Guest]

MY Pontiac had a nut, nut and lock washer under the cowl.  I think that would be an easy fix.  First though it would pay you to remove the hood and drive the three rods out of the panels.  Clean the rods thoroughly, lubricate them before replacing.  Or you might get by with lubing the hinges at each space.  Lubricate as with OIL not WD40 which is a penetrant and a water dispersant NOT a lubricant.  The reason the brackets or bolts break is because the are stressed when you try to open the hood with rusty/corroded hinge rods.  You don't notice it because of the leverage you have.  If the bracket or bolt doesn't break the metal of the hood panels will start to open up around the rod.  Lubing will help but you really do not know how easy you  hood will open without cleaning the rods and then lubing.

[drovak]

What's the proper way to take this hood apart? It doesn't seem glaringly obvious to me.

 

Front side seems to have the remnants of a screw?

 

 

 

Back side:

 

 

[drovak]

A little more investigation shows that it would indeed need a backing plate...what kind of screws or bolts should I source for this? The heads obviously need to be thin enough to not interfere with the hood when closed. 

 

 

 

 

[Str8-8-Dave]

Slotted flat head machine screws, biggest ones that the head will sit flush with the chrome hinge pin bracket, probably 8-32 x 3/4 with either a backing plate under, then split lock, then nut or flat washers instead of backing plate.  Someone replaced the original hardware with sheet metal screws because they didn't have a helper.  You either need someone outside the car to man the screwdriver another to man the washers, nuts and wrench under the dash or if short handed try one of my dirty tricks, use some 3M strip caulk or mastic tape to hold machine screws and bracket in place while you crawl under the dash and make with the rest of the hardware.  When I got my car it had a bunch of junk hardware attaching the hinge pin brackets at both the radiator shell and the cowl.

 

Hey- are we having fun yet?

 

Dave 

[Robert Engle]

I would suggest Stainless screws and nuts.   The hood assembly is quite different from my 32.  Somehow, the top hood pieces should slide off of the center piece.  If you want to take the side hood pieces off, use penetrating oil over the full length, you need use a drift pin to get the rod moved out about 1/2".  Then take a drill and tighten the chuck down on the rod and run the drill at low speed. once the rod turns begin to pull outward and the rod will usually spin out.  Use the reverse process to install the rods. 

 

Bob Engle

 

 

 

[Robert Engle]

attached are photos from my 32-50.  If the parts look to match your 31, you may try Pete Phillips to see if he has them.

 

Bob Engle

[Mike Mowen]

Do you have any knowledge of 1922 Buick 22-4-36 hood latch’s and handles?  I’m missing both and trying to see what I’ll be searching for

[Erndog]

I would check for those screws at Restoration Supply Company.