info needed on installing springs

[36humpback]

I will be getting my new rear springs soon. I have questions about installing them.  When I attach them to the axle I know you need to torque the U-bolts.  I can't find the specs for nut torque on the U-bolts.  I also understand that you are supposed to torque the nuts after the rig is sitting on the ground with wheels on.

Can anyone help me on this procedure/info?

I have also heard that you are supposed to use new U-bolts.  I don't think these are available (wide saddle on axle top) any more.  I don't plan on hauling much with my truck, so would it be ok to use the old U-bolts if they are in good shape?

Thanks in advance.

[jpage]

If the u-bolts are in good condition and the threads are sharp, I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them. You may want to get new nuts made, and use the long type nuts. I reused both the bolts and nuts on my '36 car with no issues. I just tightened them as tight as I could get them; just make sure they have the same torque value on each bolt. I don't think your truck is going to see such severe service as to cause any issues. Do clean all the mating surfaces well so they tighten up correctly with no gap areas.

[36humpback]

6 hours ago, jpage said:

If the u-bolts are in good condition and the threads are sharp, I wouldn't hesitate to reuse them. You may want to get new nuts made, and use the long type nuts. I reused both the bolts and nuts on my '36 car with no issues. I just tightened them as tight as I could get them; just make sure they have the same torque value on each bolt. I don't think your truck is going to see such severe service as to cause any issues. Do clean all the mating surfaces well so they tighten up correctly with no gap areas.

thanks for the info.  I was hoping for an answer like this.  What I will have to do is cut down the bolts after the nuts are on so I can get a torque wrench on them.  The bolts are like 2" +  longer than the nuts when tight.

[StillOutThere]

Buy a deep well socket rather than shorten the U-bolts!

I've done many car and HD truck leaf spring changes.   "As tight as I could get them" has always been the recommended torque.  Oh, there is probably a printed spec somewhere but I don't have an engineering degree to care.

[36humpback]

7 hours ago, StillOutThere said:

Buy a deep well socket rather than shorten the U-bolts!

I've done many car and HD truck leaf spring changes.   "As tight as I could get them" has always been the recommended torque.  Oh, there is probably a printed spec somewhere but I don't have an engineering degree to care.

I did check again and the bolts are not as long as I thought. (it was the shock link rods that were very long on bottom).  A deep socket will work good.  On a side note-- torque with sitting on ground with tires and wheels on, or in air without?  Thanks.

[Alan Cutler]

1 hour ago, 36humpback said:

I did check again and the bolts are not as long as I thought. (it was the shock link rods that were very long on bottom).  A deep socket will work good.  On a side note-- torque with sitting on ground with tires and wheels on, or in air without?  Thanks.

I always do mine wheels on, on the ground....be sure to run a tape measure on axel height from ground and center hub to center hub front to back prior and after....if too late on prior be sure to do it after....need to make sure the axle is running true, prior to cinching down. (or as close to it, without a frame bender)

[36humpback]

thanks for the info surf city.  I should be getting my new leaf springs in the net week or so. Bob