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1930's Oil Pump what other cars used this design of pump ? Are there any companies that reproduce this part ?


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Unless I am missing something, I would suggest you need to simply lap the bottom plate to remove the grooves that the gears have worn, probably get rid of the gasket, and bolt it back together. That is how you take a late 30's Buick oil pump and return it to factory oil pressure.  

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32 minutes ago, MCHinson said:

Unless I am missing something, I would suggest you need to simply lap the bottom plate to remove the grooves that the gears have worn, probably get rid of the gasket, and bolt it back together. That is how you take a late 30's Buick oil pump and return it to factory oil pressure.  

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Low oil pressure on straight eight engines even “rebuilt ones” is usually caused by cam bearings not being done because it’s too expensive and difficult. Second reason is an incorrect oil filter installation.

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This oil pump belongs to a Reo Royale owner who needed new gears.

He sourced out Egge Machine Company who can do the work.

I think it is around $200 for the over haul and the two gears.

Plus other Royale Members need parts so I figured I would ask if there were other suppliers.

Thanks for all the responses from everyone.

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in my 32 Plymouth   I had low oil pressure on a rebuilt motor----DROVE ME NUTS----the oil pump was rebuilt by antique parts cellar ----took the pump apart   -gears were worn --found the correct gears from supplier in Washing state     PROBLEM FIXED    That's what makes this hobby such a pain and soo rewarding ------a pain when dealing with shops and suppliers who promise they know what they are doing and rewarding when you are able to fix it yourself !!!!!

Plymouth C.JPG

Edited by broker-len (see edit history)
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Buick used similar design gear pumps.  Have you taken the pressure relief valve apart and inspected the spring?  The old oils coupled with low coolant temperatures in unpressurized cooling systems meant lots of water and acid buildup in the oil, especially if a car sat for awhile or was used for short runs.  If the oil temp stays under 212F the moisture never gets boiled off.  Guess what that does to hard steel calibrated springs after awhile.  They rust!  They lose their calibration!  They get soft!  They break!  When they start losing their strength the oil pressure begins to tumble even if the bearing clearances are good.   I agree too that the oil pressure will suffer if the bottom plate is scored badly so that needs to be addressed.  I'd also bet too it was designed for precision fit of the plate to the oil pump body and did not use a gasket.

Edited by Str8-8-Dave (see edit history)
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On 11/21/2020 at 6:21 PM, MCHinson said:

Unless I am missing something, I would suggest you need to simply lap the bottom plate to remove the grooves that the gears have worn, probably get rid of the gasket, and bolt it back together. That is how you take a late 30's Buick oil pump and return it to factory oil pressure.  

 

Agree with Matt's note-

That is exactly what I did with my '27 Chevy's oil pump-

and it restored oil pressure to above factory specs, even when hot and at extreme slow idle (got it staying smooth even down to 225 RPM)

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On 11/21/2020 at 9:28 PM, Mark Gregory said:

This oil pump belongs to a Reo Royale owner who needed new gears.

He sourced out Egge Machine Company who can do the work.

I think it is around $200 for the over haul and the two gears.

Plus other Royale Members need parts so I figured I would ask if there were other suppliers.

Thanks for all the responses from everyone.

 

Where are you located?  I had new gears made for a pump at Acme Gear in Mt. Clements, Mich

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