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23 Buick head replacement?


Barry R
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You shouldn't need new bolts but if any feel "soft" when torqueing, replace it.   I assume new head gasket.  so torque in stages, in a "circle" starting in the center and working outward to the ends. 

Maybe 30 ft lbs the first round, then 40, then finish at 45. after a week or so redo them.  45 ft lbs should be enough.  

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You want bolts that will stretch within their tensile yield point under torque.  High tensile strength bolts require higher torque.  Think of the bolts as springs to keep the head held in place under heat and cool cycles.  Excess torque will distort the head and possibly the threads on your 100 year old parts. 

 

Bob Engle

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some engines have a plate with the clearance stamped on them on one of the metal covers. Dykes says .010 for the 6 cylinder both intake and exhaust,  so that should be a good number. 

Often they gave the exhaust a bit more clearance than the intake.  If it was mine - just winging it, I would go .008 on the intake and .012 on the exhaust. If it's quiet ...good!

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Rebuilt, checked oil pump today. All working ok.

reassembled on to car.

Then I noticed the small holes in the cross pipe are facing downwards!

This part looks newer, guessing someone has had a go in the past. Am

I right in thinking these holes should face inwards/upwards to spray oil onto bearings?

Whats  the point of spraying oil downwards into the sump.

Can I just drill some new holes on the top side?

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1041D1A6-FBBA-4E4E-91A3-600C21F6A6F9.jpeg

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Barry, 

   Congratulations on getting your motor this far.  It sure looks nice behind that green paint.  What can you tell me about your oil pump screen?  These engines have no oil filter and the oil pick up should have a fine mesh screen on it.  The old screens fail and I wonder if someone installed the wrong thing on yours, or if that is how it was done in 1923?  There are several details regarding mesh and using the correct solder and flux that are important.     Hugh

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Why do you think the dipstick is too long?

 

Agree also on the poor cotter pins on the rods. You want them as large a diameter as possible and very short tails, tapped tight to the nut. No movement / looseness or they will fatigue. 
 

Listen to Hugh on that screen also. 
 

Is the forward oil pressure line blocking the squirt path of the front hole to trough?

 

Fill each trough prior to bringing the pan into place the final time.  Do several fit trials dry until you have the acrobatics it has to go through understood. 

Edited by Brian_Heil (see edit history)
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