Barry R Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 My 23 Buick I am About to put my 4 cylinder head back on my rebuilt engine. Any good tips or advise? do I need new head bolts? how tight do I do them up? thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted November 21, 2020 Share Posted November 21, 2020 You shouldn't need new bolts but if any feel "soft" when torqueing, replace it. I assume new head gasket. so torque in stages, in a "circle" starting in the center and working outward to the ends. Maybe 30 ft lbs the first round, then 40, then finish at 45. after a week or so redo them. 45 ft lbs should be enough. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 Great advise thank you. Yes I have a new gasket and intend to put copper gasket Sealant on it. I think my bolts are 100 years old and soft. If I replace them what should they be, High tensile steel..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 You want bolts that will stretch within their tensile yield point under torque. High tensile strength bolts require higher torque. Think of the bolts as springs to keep the head held in place under heat and cool cycles. Excess torque will distort the head and possibly the threads on your 100 year old parts. Bob Engle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 Bob is correct. no high strength bolts. They don't stretch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted November 27, 2020 Author Share Posted November 27, 2020 Thanks guys, so what do I ask for ? mild steel bolts ? or Stainless ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted November 28, 2020 Share Posted November 28, 2020 I would just use grade 5 bolts on this engine. Grade 8 is too much. compression ratio is low and you have a thick copper gasket so it's not fancy. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted December 5, 2020 Author Share Posted December 5, 2020 Thank you oldtech.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted December 16, 2020 Author Share Posted December 16, 2020 Ok the head is back on. Need to adjust tappits. what clearance should they be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted December 18, 2020 Share Posted December 18, 2020 Some engines have a plate with the clearance stamped on them on one of the metal covers. Dykes says .010 for the 6 cylinder both intake and exhaust, so that should be a good number. Often they gave the exhaust a bit more clearance than the intake. If it was mine - just winging it, I would go .008 on the intake and .012 on the exhaust. If it's quiet ...good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Ok she’s going back together slowly. live attached some pictures. new pistons all seems fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Rebuilt, checked oil pump today. All working ok. reassembled on to car. Then I noticed the small holes in the cross pipe are facing downwards! This part looks newer, guessing someone has had a go in the past. Am I right in thinking these holes should face inwards/upwards to spray oil onto bearings? Whats the point of spraying oil downwards into the sump. Can I just drill some new holes on the top side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Easier this way up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Don’t the holes point down to fill each dipper trough? I’m more familiar with the 1923 6 and each trough is filled by a dedicated pipe. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Engle Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 My 17 D45 6 cylinder has the holes facing down for oil to flow into the rod troughs which have a slight outward taper on the sides of the troughs to splash oil onto the cylinder walls which then runs down into cast troughs for oil feed to the main bearings. Bob Engle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Barry, Congratulations on getting your motor this far. It sure looks nice behind that green paint. What can you tell me about your oil pump screen? These engines have no oil filter and the oil pick up should have a fine mesh screen on it. The old screens fail and I wonder if someone installed the wrong thing on yours, or if that is how it was done in 1923? There are several details regarding mesh and using the correct solder and flux that are important. Hugh Edited December 23, 2020 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Yes that oil screen definitely needs help. Another thing. The cotter pins in the rod bolts should not be bent over the ends of the bolts. they can catch the oil in the dip trough and lessen the effectiveness of the "dipper". Edited December 23, 2020 by Oldtech (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry R Posted December 23, 2020 Author Share Posted December 23, 2020 The sump, note somebody has added a dipstick, which was to long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) Why do you think the dipstick is too long? Agree also on the poor cotter pins on the rods. You want them as large a diameter as possible and very short tails, tapped tight to the nut. No movement / looseness or they will fatigue. Listen to Hugh on that screen also. Is the forward oil pressure line blocking the squirt path of the front hole to trough? Fill each trough prior to bringing the pan into place the final time. Do several fit trials dry until you have the acrobatics it has to go through understood. Edited December 26, 2020 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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