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How many tools to do a car restoration?


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Have some steel plates I can make gaskets with a ball peen hammer. Forge ? No way. To much of the year I have to wait until the wee hours to e cool enough to work as is.

 

ps "and you wouldn't do without? ": Lights, many lights. 10 double 4 foot fluorescences just in the front bays (slowly converting to LEDs). More (but not as dense) in rear. Two four foot LEDs for under car work. Couple of drop lights.

 

 

Edited by padgett (see edit history)
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1 minute ago, padgett said:

Have some steel plates I can make gaskets with a ball peen hammer. Forge ? No way. To much of the year I have to wait until the wee hours to e cool enough to work as is.

 

I understand that. I usually wait until cool weather to fire up the forge unless I need it.

Here's a door knocker I made, at my wife's request, for our front door............Bob

20201121_163818.jpg

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On 11/20/2020 at 7:25 AM, alsancle said:

Also, I'm in the process of replacing all my pneumatic/corded tools with 18V electrics.

 I hope you like buying expensive batteries or new tools in 10 years.....  😄

 

BTDT have Snap-On battery tools (impact and drill) that are now worthless..... The air tools are still going fine after 30 + years.

 

Then there are the Makitas, Milwaukee etc battery drills that are now worthless due to expensive battery replacements. My corded electric drills are running just fine, some 50 years old.

 

Sure they are handy for not having a cord and not needing a compressor, but life is short for them. Yes, I do have cordless 1/4" hex drive impact and drill. But no battery saws (circular, sawsall, sabre [jig],table or miter), large drills, grinders, polishers, oscillating tools, 1/2" impacts, etc. Wait, I do still have a Milwaukee 18 volt 1/2" drive impact with no good batteries. 😳

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9 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

 I hope you like buying expensive batteries or new tools in 10 years.....  😄

 

BTDT have Snap-On battery tools (impact and drill) that are now worthless..... The air tools are still going fine after 30 + years.

 

Then there are the Makitas, Milwaukee etc battery drills that are now worthless due to expensive battery replacements. My corded electric drills are running just fine, some 50 years old.

 

Sure they are handy for not having a cord and not needing a compressor, but life is short for them. Yes, I do have cordless 1/4" hex drive impact and drill. But no battery saws (circular, sawsall, sabre [jig],table or miter), large drills, grinders, polishers, oscillating tools, 1/2" impacts, etc. Wait, I do still have a Milwaukee 18 volt 1/2" drive impact with no good batteries. 😳

At my age I don't need much for Christmas so I put batteries on the list. Keeps the tools running with no cost and they are something I can always use...

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1 hour ago, DAVES89 said:

At my age I don't need much for Christmas so I put batteries on the list. Keeps the tools running with no cost and they are something I can always use...

 You have a good point there. I have 3 electric tools and only 2 batteries. I think that Santa may bring me 2 more so that I can have one on the charger at all times.                   👍

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13 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

I hope you like buying expensive batteries or new tools in 10 years.

Cost of doing business.

I step up when I need the battery packs rebuilt. Money well spent.

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On 11/20/2020 at 7:09 AM, TAKerry said:

I dont have a lot of specific type tools, and I am sure I would find some things go so much easier if I did.

If you own a GM, or a Studebaker, you MUST have the inside door & window crank removal tool!!

 

Craig

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50637826217_c3e3245ba0_b.jpg2020-11-23_08-57-44 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

50637743186_73023315cb_b.jpg2020-11-23_08-57-26 by Kerry Grubb, on Flickr

Here is a tool I bought around 1982. Very specific and at the time very expensive for what it was ( I think it was around $50+/-).  I think I only used it a couple of times but it was invaluable. Havent had a need for it in 30 yrs or so but it still has a prominent spot in my tool box. Any guesses what it is?

 

I bet Ed knows what it is.......

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18 hours ago, 8E45E said:

If you own a GM, or a Studebaker, you MUST have the inside door & window crank removal tool!!

 

Craig

I do, but they have electric windows 😃, But I know exactly what youre talking about.

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20 hours ago, 8E45E said:

If you own a GM, or a Studebaker, you MUST have the inside door & window crank removal tool!!

 

Craig

 

I have a special tool for the 50s Mopar window handles that is also invaluable.

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22 hours ago, padgett said:

Lot depends on whether a professional or amateur.

 

Not sure why, working tools are much better to own than non working tools.

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Am an amateur. Most of my hand tools are Craftsman or Penncraft. Not on Matco or Snap On routes and couldn't afford anyway.

 

8E45E: you mean one of these ?

 

doortool.jpg

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5 minutes ago, padgett said:

Am an amateur. Most of my hand tools are Craftsman or Penncraft. Not on Matco or Snap On routes and couldn't afford anyway.

 

8E45E: you mean one of these ?

 

doortool.jpg

That is the one.

 

On a 1959-1966 Studebaker, it is almost impossible not to break the clear plastic escutcheon behind the crank or inside handle without it.

 

Craig

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6 hours ago, padgett said:

Am an amateur. Most of my hand tools are Craftsman or Penncraft. Not on Matco or Snap On routes and couldn't afford anyway.

 

8E45E: you mean one of these ?

 

doortool.jpg

 This tool can be replaced with a rag that is drawn between the interior panel and the inside of the handle. It will grab the spring clip and remove it faster than you can catch it when it comes out!

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On 11/20/2020 at 7:25 AM, alsancle said:

 

Also, I'm in the process of replacing all my pneumatic/corded tools with 18V electrics

Here is a quiz for you. How many volts is a Dewalt 20 volt Max* tool after being fully charged. A tip is it is not 20 volts.  

Edited by Joe in Canada (see edit history)
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Nobody told me nothin, just had to OJT all the way. Most were given cars (190SL was a girl's car). Was reported for swapping a manifold in the driveway. Was Not Done.

Guess my first collection was tools, started long before anything else. Thinking about an induction heater for frozen bolts but not that many frozen bolts here and seem to be a few Benjamins. Prolly just stay with PB Blaster and an impact (have hand, electric, and air).

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2 hours ago, Joe in Canada said:

Here is a quiz for you. How many volts is a Dewalt 20 volt Max* tool after being fully charged. A tip is it is not 20 volts.  

18 volts. Says so on the package. 

If just removed from the charger, it is close to 20 volts. that is 4 volts per cell, high for Li-Ion. It drops to 3.7 to 3.6 volts per cell as a load is put on it.

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8 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

18 volts. Says so on the package. 

If just removed from the charger, it is close to 20 volts. that is 4 volts per cell, high for Li-Ion. It drops to 3.7 to 3.6 volts per cell as a load is put on it.

Very good! Yes 18 volts on the package but you really have to look for it.  The bold print 20 volt is all smoke and mirrors and is actually referring to the charger itself not the tool.

John Deere and many other manufacturers that lost their law suit for over rating the motor size then had to reimburse  money back last year. Check and see if your mower is on the list for your refund.

Edited by Joe in Canada (see edit history)
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