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Posted

1st question is: does the pump turn on? If not, start there.

 

2nd question: has the accumulator bulb been replaced? That will be the nest thing to address.

Posted

Which brake hose was replaced? The rear brake system has a special bleeding procedure, the front is the normal procedure. 

Agree to make sure the brake pump turns on first, without it you will have no boost at all. There is a relay/fuse box near the passenger front wheel that tends to burn out wiring on the bottom if the pump runs too long.

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Posted

the rear hose and the mechanic replaced the break line from the abs to the tee in the back going to the rear breaks  he said he blead the breaks with a special abs machine  i read on this sight that they should be blead with the switch turned on  I can hear the pump running.. thank you for responding

 

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Posted

If the accumulator is bad, the system won't work correctly. It sounds like this is the case. When you turn the key on, how long does the ABS pump run for? It *should* turn off after about 30 seconds. If it doesn't, there are other issues...could be a sensor, switch, the bulb...depending on your will to keep the stock ABS, it might be cheaper and better in the long run to convert it to a vacuum assisted system like all the rest of the Chryslers of the time. Yes, you lose ABS, BUT, you gain serviceability and the peace of mind that IF something happens it won't be that expensive to fix, plus ANY shop should be able to do it if you can't.

Posted

the pump continues to run.  before the break line broke it would shut off in 30 seconds . how would this ruin the pump, and the breaks haven,t been bleed correctly   i would like too try this first. does it matter which rear break to bleed first?

Posted

Ok I replaced the accumulator jacked up the car removed the rear wheels opened both bleeders had the key on someone pressing on pedal zero fluid came out of either side   What do I need to do next. Loosen the break line to the tee in rear where it splits to both rear lines.  Need help. 

Posted

Make sure reservoir starts at full level. Looking at my service manual, you must turn the rear bleeder screw at least one full turn open and with the ignition in 'run' position FIRMLY depress the brake pedal after the pump stops running, if the pump doesn't run there will be no pressure to the rear brakes. Just cracking the bleeder screws open won't work. Make sure the reservoir never drops below the  minimum level, it will empty fast.  To know when the air is out you need to have a hose attached to the bleeder screw and the other end in a jar of fresh fluid to see when no more bubbles come out. Do one side at a time but the manual doesn't give a preference of which side first. There is a proportioning valve on the car with an arrow on it, make sure the arrow points to the rear brakes. Not sure where that valve is located. 

 

I remember having a TC savvy mechanic replace fluid on the 91 I used to have and he had a 'doh' moment while bleeding the rears and getting no fluid out. After having me get in the car and work the key and pedal it took a while to get the fluid flowing so keep trying. This Chrysler dealer mechanic had worked on my TC from the time the first owner had got it and was very familiar with the car so don't feel bad about having missed a step or two. 

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