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1923 thru 1927 Buick Distributor parts modernization


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Distributor parts for 1923 thru 1927 Buick parts continue to get scarce.  Scarcity drives the price up.  

 

         1923-27      1928 - 32

Cap      $110          $12 ($7 on Rock Auto)

Rotor    $65           $6.75  

Points   $50?         $12.50

 

I did want to look into the modifications necessary to fit modern points, cap and rotor to the existing distributor housings.

Cap and Rotor are 10X the price, and Bob's no longer has points which indicates the rarity.   

I have the following photo from Kevin Roner regarding points but no details.  Would like to provide drawings of what is necessary to modify existing parts.  Would like to keep the capacity to always go back to the original parts. 

 

Does anyone have any 1928 thru 1932 Buick cap and rotor and or points that they would donate to the cause?   PM me.  I need a couple to cut and verify fit.  Worn out is fine.    Thank you    Hugh

 

178274942_distributor-4modernpointsinstalledin6cyldistributer-Kevin.thumb.jpg.5727c59e8bedf1a635c39f481c3ccddf.jpg

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Hugh:

 I know I said I would try to see how they adapted the latter Delco Distributer to Remley  Adjustment to set timing is done with a clamp on the barrel rather than the bottom set screw like later Chevrolets. The Brough's indicated that they thought the unit came from a 6 cylinder International truck. It does take nice CHEAPER components.

DSCF5660.thumb.JPG.9374d1c3385af130054c13ac77b5748c.JPG

 

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Larry, 

    What I am looking to do is a little different than what we have discussed in the past.  I do have a listing of replacement distributors, and yes, there are some details missing on all the nuances to replace the distributor as a whole to upgrade from a pot metal distributor housing.  I have already installed a steel distributor from an earlier model. 

 

What I want to do is use the existing distributor and provide details to upgrade the replacement parts.  There is a slight change in the diameter of the newer cap.  It may require a fixture and minor machining of a cheap cap to get there, or maybe replacement of the cap hold down screws with shallower screws that do not interfere with the new cap.  Replacing the hold down clips with slightly longer clips or modifying the top side of the cap.  Several ways to get there.      Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Why not just make reproduction caps, rotors, and points? Easily done...........

 

99 percent of the time, all three components are still fine.......and people just want to swap out the stuff during a tune up. It’s like a carb kit where people want a new float..........not needed 99 percent of the time. Even if the reproduction parts are the same as the going rate today, it’s a better option than changing things. 110 for a cap isn’t bad......a five wire oxygen sensor from Bosch can easily run 150 bucks. I would also expect that 99 percent of the existing Buick’s from the 1923-1927 era see less than four hundred miles a year. For the cost of four tanks of fuel in my pick up truck I can buy the cap, rotor, and points..........in perspective while not free, they are by no means stopping someone from driving their car. Some rare caps sell for 1500-2500 dollars.......it’s all in how you look at it. 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

Distributor parts for 1923 thru 1927 Buick parts continue to get scarce.  Scarcity drives the price up.  

 

         1923-27      1928 - 32

Cap      $110          $12 ($7 on Rock Auto)

Rotor    $65           $6.75  

Points   $50?         $12.50

 

I did want to look into the modifications necessary to fit modern points, cap and rotor to the existing distributor housings.

Cap and Rotor are 10X the price, and Bob's no longer has points which indicates the rarity.   

I have the following photo from Kevin Roner regarding points but no details.  Would like to provide drawings of what is necessary to modify existing parts.  Would like to keep the capacity to always go back to the original parts. 

 

Does anyone have any 1928 thru 1932 Buick cap and rotor and or points that they would donate to the cause?   PM me.  I need a couple to cut and verify fit.  Worn out is fine.    Thank you    Hugh

 

 

Hugh, 

 

I sort of recall reading about a modification to a VW distributer Cap for use in a 4 cylinder Buick , maybe Leif  from Sweden ?

 

Had a search but no luck...

 

Norm

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8 hours ago, edinmass said:

Even if the reproduction parts are the same as the going rate today, it’s a better option than changing things. 110 for a cap isn’t bad......a five wire oxygen sensor from Bosch can easily run 150 bucks

 

Kinda sad that was my first thought as well, I'd be happy to pay those prices for the cadillac... 

 

Would the alternative approach if you had a non functional distributor be to find a workable housing and see if there is an electronic ignition conversion kit that would be suitable? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hugh as you know we switched out the problematic 1927 pot metal distributor for a 1929 unit(cast), it dropped right in with zero modifications! I will be happy to see if I have the old parts laying around, I do have a brand new set of everything, including points for a 1927, however as you can imagine I don’t want to cut them up.

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Gentlemen,

 

My buddies and I are the proud owners of a 1923 Buick which is great fun. It would be even funner if it didn't spit and cough (fire back through the inlet manifold) when it got a bit warm (about 15minutes run time). It has had the issue the whole time we have owned it and over the years we have replaced the radiator, rebuilt the water pump, had a top end overhaul, fitted a fuel pump and had the carburetor rebuilt, twice. We have had the distributor overhauled but have not been able to find a replacement distributor cap. It's about the last item we can think of to try and I am hoping you can help me locate a replacement.  
 
I need a 4 cylinder distributor cap and Bob at Automobilia can't help.  Can you help us with one? If not, can you suggest someone else who may be able to help? 
 
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17 hours ago, Old Firm Colonial Touring said:

Gentlemen,

 

My buddies and I are the proud owners of a 1923 Buick which is great fun. It would be even funner if it didn't spit and cough (fire back through the inlet manifold) when it got a bit warm (about 15minutes run time). It has had the issue the whole time we have owned it and over the years we have replaced the radiator, rebuilt the water pump, had a top end overhaul, fitted a fuel pump and had the carburetor rebuilt, twice. We have had the distributor overhauled but have not been able to find a replacement distributor cap. It's about the last item we can think of to try and I am hoping you can help me locate a replacement.  
 
I need a 4 cylinder distributor cap and Bob at Automobilia can't help.  Can you help us with one? If not, can you suggest someone else who may be able to help? 
 

 

You might want to check your local NAPA store. They have some caps that go back quite a ways.

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Here is my 2 cents:

 

For 1926 and 1927 Buicks you can substitute any 1928 to 1930 single contact distributor.  It is a drop in fit with no other alterations. You time it like a more modern distributor by rotating the cup. You do not have to use the nut at the bottom of the distributor.

 

You can buy the cap, rotor, condenser and points at the auto parts store. Just ask for late 1940's Chevy parts.

 

1922 - 23 4 cyl. & 1922 through 1927  6 Cyl. rotors are available from Bob's.  He reproduced them.  Some of my catalogs list 1921 as the same, some list it with the earlier  part number.  

 

I have 3 sets of points for 1917 to 1922 available for $55.00;    1 set of 1923 to 1927 points at $80.00;  several sets of 1928 to 1930 single contact distributor points for $4.00 or heavy duty version of the same for $6.00.,  and one 640 A distributor  (1928) for $85.00 with new points (gear is worn).

 

Frde Rawling  (562) 644-4670 or fred.rawling@live.com

 

 

 

 

 

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On any NOS set of points you are thinking of buying, do a careful inspection of the fiber rubbing block and small rivets. 
 

Every set I looked at, at Hershey a year ago were cracked and the fiber material was breaking down due to age in this area. You almost need a jewelers loupe. 
 

This was the failure mode of my points 20+ years ago.  I built up the sides of the fiber rubbing block with JB weld.  Still doing fine all these years and 40,000+ miles later. 

Edited by Brian_Heil (see edit history)
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