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Passenger window and regulator removal 1933 Plymouth 4 dr sedan


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I can't seem to find a service manual for the body and windows.

I want to remove the passenger window and regulator.

I found something for the 1936, but i'm not sure I understand.

It sounds like you roll the window up part way and tilt inward and it should release the rollers from the track and finish pulling the widow out.

I want to make sure, so I don't break the window.

Any suggestions on a manual that has body and window service? 

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I got the window channels out, but still not able to get the rollers out of the track to remove the glass.

Does anyone know if you have to loosen the regulator to remove the rollers from the track?

This door is killing me from the lock now the window.

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Not sure if my 32 Dodge Brothers has the same setup, but mine has two rollers on the crank mechanism that slide onto a channel along the bottom of the window.  There are two open slots in the channel that have to be lined up with the roller before they can be pulled free.  As I remember - it’s been five years - they were a real pain to get off.  I’m about to put mine back on and I’m not looking forward to it!

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Been a long, long time so my memory is probably off.

  • Remove the garnish moldings from the inside of the window.
  • Pull the felt channel tops inward so they are inside the body.
  • Roll the window all the way up until the channel/rollers/bottom of glass is above the window opening.
  • Window (with rollers, etc.) should now be free of track.

If I recall correctly, there is a tight fit between the rollers, etc. and the body stamping but with a little finagling the above should work.

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I did my Graham a few years ago... The trick to mine was crank the window up about 3/4 way, unbolt the winder assembly and slide the lift wheels out the end of the track, on the bottom of the window.  The window will fall off the bottom of the track when the winder is gone.  The Graham you had to pass the window up back through the window frame at 90 degrees.  To reassemble I used painters tape the hold the window in position, lots of tape, peals off easily after the winder is reinstalled.

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Update: The widow is out the repaired lock latch is back. Waiting for ne channels.

I pretty much went the route of Graham Man.

Had window all the way up then released the regulator. Moved regulator to the right (toward hinge) to release right roller from track. Lowered the window and regulator to where I could see and removed left roller out through a notch in the bottom of the track.

I did need assistance in all of this. My wife held the window while I removed the regulator.

Now I have another problem other than getting this back together.

The door handle with lock: I have no key, but may have a local locksmith to help.

Right now the square shaft turns within the handle, so the handle turns and the shaft doesn't.

Any suggestions?

I would like to thank all of you for your help and knowledge.

What a relief when that widow came out and that lock went in.

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I don't think my wife would have the patience to help me with the window, so I use copious amounts of painters 1 1/2" tape to hold the window in place after getting it in the correct position.  I did take the opportunity to grease up my winder, works great now.  Remember if you move the winder to put it back to where took it apart...

 

The Handle Man (Rich Baumgarten) should have a 1933 locking assembly, but a good lock smith should not have a problem getting yours to work

http://thehandleman@comcast.net

 

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8 hours ago, JBP1933 said:

. . .

Now I have another problem other than getting this back together.

The door handle with lock: I have no key, but may have a local locksmith to help.

Right now the square shaft turns within the handle, so the handle turns and the shaft doesn't.

Any suggestions?

. . .

 

Sounds like the cylinder is in the locked position. At least on my 33 Plymouth, if the handle is locked it is disconnected from the square shaft that actuates the latch. In the unlocked position the handle is locked to the square shaft so the handle can actuate the latch.

 

If I recall correctly, the cylinder uses some odd little wafers instead of pins. I believe that if you have a source for new wafers, the way you "key" the cylinder is to put the new wafers in, insert the key, then using pliers, clamp, bench vice or equivalent press on the ends of the wafers to deform a cross piece to conform to the cut on the key.

 

The way you remove the cylinder is to insert the correct key, rotate it (I forget how far) and then put a pin into a tiny hole on the bottom side of the handle to release a little spring loaded lever. Then the cylinder can be pulled out.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks all the door is a finished. I pined the square shaft to make it work as a no lock door.

Window and latch work great. I wil look for another handle with a lock.

Now onto that front seat. I do not think it was adjustable on 1933 PC.

I am now the next smartest guy on that door.

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