1930 Pontiac water pump part number

[SDLARS 12]

My water pump is OK but got an email from The Filling Station the other day that got me wondering.  They list a pump for Chevrolet, 1929-1934 with modern seals and bearings and it looks like a similar bolt pattern as the Pontiac.  They say it replaces GM part number 601108. Anyone have any idea if they might interchange?

[Kornkurt 46]

601108 does not show up in any Pontiac parts book.  

[Guest]

1930 Pontiac water pump #527614, P6 1929 to 490158 is #526853 and would also work.   NOTHING ENGINE mechanical from Chevrolet fits Split head Pontiacs.  The transmission case is the same but inside gears are different ratios because of the different torque and HP curves and the rear extension is different because 1929 and up split heads had "Hotchkiss" drive.

 

[SDLARS 12]

Good to know. Just curious. Thanks!

[32Pontiac6 32]

Another thing to put in the back of your mind is that the impeller and shaft is the same for '29-'32 (Group 1.003 and Part Number 526856).  The difference is the body.  The '32 is particularly unique because it has a water distribution tube that daylights at the pump and brings water to the rear head area.  So finding an old pump from that series will allow a spare impeller and shaft.  My other bias is that I like the old packing over mechanical seals.  I have some Chevy friends who have used mechanically sealed pumps with great success.  I replaced the mechanical seal on my '32 and it failed.  I have gone back to the old packing and it works fine.  I think the problem with packing is that owners have never replaced it and it is a bit of a mystery to them.  Once you get the right packing and use it a time or two you realize that it is a good and simple solution.  I run packing in both my '30 and '32.  My two cents worth.

  

[SDLARS 12]

I repacked my pump with packing from McMaster-Carr and all is well. It truly is an amazingly simple unit. I actually have no leaks although I have a pan under the car to monitor the situation. 

Next step is the radiator. I've found a shop that is reputable and isn't afraid to tackle a 90 year old unit. I'll let you know how it all works out. 

[SDLARS 12]

Got my radiator back and installed. Shop said it wasn't bad. Fixed a small leak I wasn't aware of.  Weather is such here that all I have done is run it in the shop.  Just idling it will rise to about 180 and then stay there. We're at 6000 ft with lots of hills and am wondering how yours reacts to it having to work harder?

[32Pontiac6 32]

I live at sea level so my data may not equate to higher elevations.  Your boiling point will be closer to 200 than 212 in an unpressurized system like we have.  I have both a '30 and '32 6 cyl.  Both cars run cool.  My '32 generally runs 180 degrees and on the hottest days - (95-100) it might get up to 190.  The '30 does not have a thermostat so it runs even cooler.

 

My gut tells me that your car has a thermostat in it and that you are seeing temperature after it opens.  If the cooling system is working well even with a 180 degree idle the car should run fairly cool.  The combination of splithead 6 engine and crossflow radiator make for a very efficient cooling system.  Overheating is not something I worry about.

 

I hope that helps.

Rob

 

[SDLARS 12]

No thermostat. Radiator and block have been flushed. Coolant shows no signs of deposits.  Will be able to get it on the road soon and see if the radiator work done this winter was helpful.  Radiator shop said it wasn't bad.

Thanks for sharing your experience.