stakeside Posted November 2, 2020 Share Posted November 2, 2020 I have 2 water pumps from a DA six. Part Number 210903. The packing nut assemblies are different. They are both pressed in. One is bronze and the other is steel. Just curious about difference. One pump has A1 and other has A3 stamped. A bronze bushing 0.812” OD and 0.625” ID by 1.125” long is pressed into the assemble. I believe the bronze one to be original. The bushing for this assembly does not have a flange end as the front bushing does. The front bushing has the flange. The OD and ID are the same size as the packing nut bushing but is 1.5” long. I will be rebuilding a pump for my engine. Are these bushings available? Also will I need a new shaft? The diameter is 0.610” Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 (edited) You might find parts or information for them here.... http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/ Edited November 3, 2020 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 You need oil lite bushings . The flange one comes in some standard sizes in Lowes . Most need o.d. cut down and pressed in and reamed in place . I purchase some from local bearing shop . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 You are lucky to have a bush in the front of the housing The Senior Series has 2 small tapered Timken bearings that are no longer made Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Ron Lawson said: You are lucky to have a bush in the front of the housing The Senior Series has 2 small tapered Timken bearings that are no longer made I’ve been rebuilding mine in the past week. My tapered roller bearings had seized at some stage and I had to re bush it to fit the new bearings. I also machined it to take a mechanical seal at the same time. You can see in the bottom picture how far out the bearings had eaten into the housing. I was lucky enough to get some bearings Ron but it took him some hunting. I’m waiting on a new shaft and front bush from Myers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenendcindyc Posted November 3, 2020 Share Posted November 3, 2020 Just so you guys know ,on the pumps with the obsolete taper roller bearings a pair of 6203 ball bearings will drop in with no modifications and work great. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 Damn!! I wish I knew that I have some of them in my tool box. That’s a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted November 4, 2020 Share Posted November 4, 2020 This mine similar to shown . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fossil Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 Wow Tom that thing must have been throwing water like crazy. Question, do you use water pump grease or regular lube grease to lube the water pump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 Actual it was not . The back bearing and packing where keeping to a weep . I only notice after adjusting belt working on generator . Of coarse this was when i was a very newb to prewar cars and this vehicle .I was shocked to see it worn thur the bushing to the steel . The po just cranked the nut and adjustment tighter , I guess . I use marine / farm wheel grease and square shaped gland packing rope . I use the semi fluid grease in front bearing as opposed to oil only because bearing was over cut to press in to eliminate reaming . I was able to use sealant on front portion where lip is . The lube thins from heat friction and absorbs into the oil lite bushing . I know better next time LOL . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 12 hours ago, ArticiferTom said: Actual it was not . The back bearing and packing where keeping to a weep . I only notice after adjusting belt working on generator . Of coarse this was when i was a very newb to prewar cars and this vehicle .I was shocked to see it worn thur the bushing to the steel . The po just cranked the nut and adjustment tighter , I guess . I use marine / farm wheel grease and square shaped gland packing rope . I use the semi fluid grease in front bearing as opposed to oil only because bearing was over cut to press in to eliminate reaming . I was able to use sealant on front portion where lip is . The lube thins from heat friction and absorbs into the oil lite bushing . I know better next time LOL . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted November 6, 2020 Author Share Posted November 6, 2020 2 minutes ago, stakeside said: On 11/4/2020 at 11:47 AM, ArticiferTom said: This mine similar to shown . Our pumps are quite different. Does your rear packing nut have a bushing? How did you remove it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted November 6, 2020 Share Posted November 6, 2020 Yes rear has a bushing .It was different design with grease channels . I did not replace was ok . Gland is in front of that . You can't real see it ,here but there are some shims and slingers ,also simple impeller . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 I have put mine back together and will use grease fittings. The grease and packing should do well. If not there is the Flying Dutchman rebuild. Thanks for all the input. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 14, 2020 Share Posted November 14, 2020 I got my water pump finished this afternoon. Was a bit of a nightmare but got there in the end. The impeller split in half when I tapped the roll pin in. Manage to weld it back together with some stainless wire and stuck it in a bucket of sand to cool. It all seems to be spinning nicely now. Replaced all the bearings, shaft bush and new stainless shaft. The mechanical seal fitted in nicely with a small spacer to give a little pressure on the sealing face. I’ll give it some paint soon. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenendcindyc Posted November 15, 2020 Share Posted November 15, 2020 Mat, the pump looks great. It’s hard to tell from your pictures but there appears to be a large gap between the impeller and the pump body, this will greatly reduce pump efficiency. I try to achieve about .040 clearance. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 10 hours ago, Kenendcindyc said: Mat, the pump looks great. It’s hard to tell from your pictures but there appears to be a large gap between the impeller and the pump body, this will greatly reduce pump efficiency. I try to achieve about .040 clearance. I tend to agree with you. the bush I have won’t allow it to get any closer. It’s a new bush from Myers. might have to rethink this. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 So I’ve buggered that up putting it back together. I put the bush in the wrong way round. (I’m a Dickhead. ) Ill attack that tomorrow and correct my stuff up. Thanks for picking me up on that 👍👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Don't be to hard oh yourself mate You are not alone I was born one as well 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Fixed up the gap this morning and got it to 1.7mm. So that should be a better job. thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted November 16, 2020 Share Posted November 16, 2020 Matt, is the seal ceramic? It looks like one. And the grease fitting has to go, just saying. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 1 hour ago, nearchoclatetown said: Matt, is the seal ceramic? It looks like one. And the grease fitting has to go, just saying. Can I just paint it Doug I don’t have one of those old fashioned grease guns. Hahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 3 hours ago, Mattml430 said: Fixed up the gap this morning and got it to 1.7mm. So that should be a better job. thanks for your help. This is a DA6 pump?? Sure looks different then mine. Mine is a truck. Is that the difference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearchoclatetown Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 (edited) You don't need one. It gets an oil fitting. Cheater! McMaster-Carr part number is 1211K1 for $3.56. I can send you one. Hate your car to look like a hotrod. Edited November 17, 2020 by nearchoclatetown (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 (edited) Placing a zerk grease fitting on ANY water pump is a very bad idea......it’s likely to be greased by chassis grease and then it can possibly blow out the packings and the grease can plug the radiator.......your much better off with a grease cup and water soluble grease as it calls for. Edited November 17, 2020 by edinmass (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 Fair to say I’ve mate a right mess of this pump. At least the thread consists of the do’s and don’ts. Hahah. The mechanical seal is staying but I will de rod it 😂🤣 and fit the correct grease nipple. I think it’s correct anyway, it’s what was on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 17, 2020 Share Posted November 17, 2020 21 hours ago, Mattml430 said: Fair to say I’ve mate a right mess of this pump. At least the thread consists of the do’s and don’ts. Hahah. The mechanical seal is staying but I will de rod it 😂🤣 and fit the correct grease nipple. I think it’s correct anyway, it’s what was on it. Just out of curiosity has some one in years gone by changed the nipple and the grease cup fittings around ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattml430 Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 16 minutes ago, Ron Lawson said: Just out of curiosity has some one in years gone by changed the nipple and the grease cup fittings around ? I’m buggered if I know Ron. can it just have 2 grease caps on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted November 18, 2020 Share Posted November 18, 2020 13 hours ago, Mattml430 said: I’m buggered if I know Ron. can it just have 2 grease caps on it. Will send you a photo of the Senior pump The same as yours but different Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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