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DA Valve Clearance Adjustment


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I am trying to fire up my DA engine for probably the first time in 65 odd years and not having a lot of joy so far. It was recon some years ago and has a rebuilt carbi, so I am starting from scratch. Therefore I am trying to work through this as methodically as I can. I decided to check the valve clearances (which I set up some years ago) and found that I have collected quite a bit of conflicting information over the years. This has left me rather confused and I have abandoned the shed for the night. As the weather is a bit cold, I thought a couple of glasses of port may help, but it has not helped yet!

Intend to have another look at this in the morning with a clearer mind, but has anyone got any information or advice that may help me? 

Thanks,

John

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The specs as seen above are .005” but remember that is on a hot engine. I’d set them around .008 -.010” on a cold engine. They may be a little noisy at that setting but it should start and run fine, then reset them when you get it running and hot.   

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The specs as seen above are .005” but remember that is on a hot engine. I’d set them around .008 -.010” on a cold engine. They may be a little noisy at that setting but it should start and run fine, then reset them when you get it running and hot.  

 

If you did set them to .005” it should still start and run fine, just remember when it gets hot the valve stems do expand enough to close up that gap. It will idle really rough and be low on power as the valves will not be able to fully seat. 

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Today, armed with the above info, I had another go at checking the valve clearances. However I was still confused as a couple of the valves did not open and close when I thought they should. Then it dawned on me that they were stuck open. I looked closer and found the cam followers were stuck up for two valves, one in particular I could not move at all, so I have removed the valve tappet guide and pressed out the two offending cam followers (valve tappets). They were stuck with rust, one very badly. How that occurred puzzles me as everything else is well protected by an oily coating. I have cleaned up the cam followers OK but have not done the guides yet. Hopefully will do so tomorrow, then put it back together and adjust.

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5 hours ago, Bullfrog_eng said:

Today, armed with the above info, I had another go at checking the valve clearances. However I was still confused as a couple of the valves did not open and close when I thought they should. Then it dawned on me that they were stuck open. I looked closer and found the cam followers were stuck up for two valves, one in particular I could not move at all, so I have removed the valve tappet guide and pressed out the two offending cam followers (valve tappets). They were stuck with rust, one very badly. How that occurred puzzles me as everything else is well protected by an oily coating. I have cleaned up the cam followers OK but have not done the guides yet. Hopefully will do so tomorrow, then put it back together and adjust.

I had rust issues w/ my valves too even though I had an oily coat on them too...turns out my head gasket was leaking.

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On 10/26/2020 at 3:19 AM, Bullfrog_eng said:

It was recon some years ago

 

10 hours ago, Bullfrog_eng said:

They were stuck with rust, one very badly.

 

46 minutes ago, Bullfrog_eng said:

the engine has not had water in it since recon.

It makes one wonder about the "recon".  I would almost want to pull the head and pan  and measure everything I could.

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Did not explain this very well. When I got the engine it had the head off and was a mess. That was 50 years ago, and it had not run for probably 15 years before that. I had it recon about 20 years ago by a very reputable vintage engine restorer and it was returned to me as a short motor. I assembled the rest of it myself ensuring that there was plenty of oil on everything, but did not run it. It was never going to take this long to get the car on the road, but life takes one down other paths. The inside of the engine is still very clean except for the rust on those two cam followers. Did I miss putting some oil on those two? Possibly, will probably never know. 

Yes, it was hot tubbed, as was the head (twice in the case of the head, as well as sand blasting as much of the water jacket as we could).

Interesting little comment on the engine restorer for your amusement.

He asked, "how much of a hurry are you in?"

Me "define hurry"

Restorer "well, see that model T engine, that bloke is not in a hurry and it has been there two years" (and he had not commenced work on it yet)

My answer was "well, I am in a bit more of a hurry than that"

I think I got it back in about 7 months and I was happy with that..

But I have always remembered that, and frequently ask people to define what they mean when saying something will be ready "soon" or "that won't take long"!

So, I am happy that all should be well and good, and from what I see, that appears to be the case. I have the cam followers back in place and am part way through adjusting valves (and needed a break!)

Thanks for your concerns and comments.

John

 

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YOU BEAUTY, SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!

Started the engine three times today, was a bit reluctant for a while, but after fiddling with carbi and timing, it got easier to start each time.

No water in radiator yet, so could not run for long, but long enough to be satisfied that all seems OK at this stage. I now need to fill the radiator so I can give it a longer run and get it running better still.

Valves are a bit noisy, but fine for the time being, will reset them after I have run it for a bit.

 I am a pretty happy fella tonight, so thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement.

John 

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