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Ever wonder what you’d buy if money was no object!


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2 minutes ago, 1912Staver said:

Ed, click on the link. That's typical of my area .

Its out of balance for sure.  One can buy a comparable size 'fixer-upper' in Detroit for three zeroes less than that listing.  

 

Craig

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Interesting, my first house was in a suburb of Anderson, Indiana: 900 sq. ft. and a 2 1/2 car heated garage (priorities haven't changed) on an acre. Have had up to 5 acres (Texas). Current house had built in an ex-Orange grove (weather changes) in a development with sidewalks and good schools (wife's wants) on about 1/2 acre & designed to be deceptive. Value is close to 4X what was paid. Thanks to several tax exemptions my property taxes are about $2500/year, about the same as insurance. If had to move, it would probably be to Clermont or Groveland, no longer need to be 20 minutes from a world class airport.

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 When I moved in, you smelled fresh cut hay and cow manure. Now, my animals piss off the neighbors..........I am an official working farm. The new neighbors went after me for my trailer, equipment, roosters crowing, and my 1 ton truck .....which are all prohibited by the NEW zoning laws. As a working farm, I am exempt. They took me to civil court......and it got thrown out.........so I then complimented them by parking all my equipment out on the roadside instead of the parking area 800 feet off the road.........The best part is the guy who took me to court would push his snow down the hill and across the street  into my front pasture. It's illegal in Mass to push snow across the street, a state, county, and town law. The first storm I shot a video of him doing it. He flipped me off and said do something about it. The fine was 2700.00 which he refused to pay, so they attached his house. He ended up moving within a year. People don't realize agricultural zoning is a BUSINESS zone. Try and explain to them building a house in Ag1 is an allowed use, but it is NOT a residential zone. It's called due diligence.....and no one today understands it.

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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I don't mind living in a mostly Ag. area . It would just be nice to have a bit of land like most of my neighbors , but at today's price not going to happen. Only real problem was when  all the dairy farms around me changed hands and were converted 

to Blueberry's . Apart from the much increased use of chemicals { all well water for miles around }, the Blueberry cannon's were a real intrusion in berry season. Like living in a 24 hour a day war zone. I am only about 500 Ft to the South of a large

Berry farm. The cannon's sounded like they were in my back yard. Eventually the farmers realized after a couple of years the birds paid no attention to the cannon's and stopped using them. Also I am told the Propane bill was very high per acre.

After about 5 years of serious noise peace was restored. I never complained but many did. Especially the Horse owners, several large  and many small stables in my area.

 

 

Edited by 1912Staver (see edit history)
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But do you have relocation options ?  { Apart from Florida} .  Due to local geography options are a minimum of 3 or 4 hours away and unless quite remote indeed not all that much cheaper. Like I said before I have a pretty crappy house on a very small for the area , non conforming lot, so quite limited resale . All the disadvantages of the country with relatively few of the advantages. Zoning regulations , like yours changed after I bought.  If anyone wanted to build a new house { 90 % of potential buyers } it is difficult and very costly to meet the septic regs. due to the small size of the property.  We are grandfathered due to the age of the house. Plus the divorce is a

down payment killer.

Edited by 1912Staver (see edit history)
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My option is to sell and move 1000 miles west. I plan on making the move soon. Upstate Michigan and a condo in Florida.  Both locations will be less than half the cost all in of my current place, and ten percent of the taxes for both. The states are making moving much easier. I didn’t want to move. Now I am looking forward to it. 

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That's a big move ! Best of luck with it all. At least the $ work in your advantage. I understand Upstate Michigan is a bit cold in the winter so no doubt the condo will get quite a bit of use. I spent my early years in Winnipeg Man. so I have a good idea of what Winter is all about. 

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17 minutes ago, edinmass said:

My option is to sell and move 1000 miles west. I plan on making the move soon. Upstate Michigan and a condo in Florida.  Both locations will be less than half the cost all in of my current place, and ten percent of the taxes for both. The states are making moving much easier. I didn’t want to move. Now I am looking forward to it. 

We would welcome having you in Michigan....my only complaint with living here is the high auto insurance rates that result from our poorly crafted "No-Fault" insurance laws.  Number one in the nation for costs.

https://www.insure.com/car-insurance/car-insurance-rates.html

 

As for winter....it makes for changing seasons and you appreciate a car with heat (not this one).

20171214_160951.thumb.jpg.b186368fb3269f2aa4e871ddb79d3d2c.jpg

 

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
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6 minutes ago, 1912Staver said:

Those rates are a real eye popper Stude.  And I thought my rates were high. I sure hope that is offset with an otherwise reasonable  cost of living.

Property taxes and overall cost of living is pretty reasonable.  My vintage car rates aren't too bad (~$250 a car per year thru Hagerty) but for your daily driver the rates are just just stupid high.  My 25 year old - no tickets, no accidents and just PLPD over $1200 per year.  It's no wonder there are so many uninsured drivers on the road in this state, especially young ones.

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When I was 30 I bought the car I had wanted since I was 15 years old.

 

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When I was 40 I built the garage I always wanted

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And this afternoon I am going over to the plumping supply to pick up 60" of 3/4" black iron pipe for my new compressed air system.

 

Every decade I have made some major and permanent enhancement to my hobby pursuit. All funded from buying and selling hobby related stuff I was told I was foolish to buy or waste my time on.

 

I don't think unlimited funds would change that much. I'm pretty much set and satisfied. I am sure the next thing I buy will not meet someone's approval, someone with a long list of what they'd buy "if money was no object".

 

An employee of mine once told me he was going to write a book about his experiences on our jobs. He said the title would be "If we ain't having fun we ain't going". It's the journey.

Bernie

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3 hours ago, edinmass said:

The first storm I shot a video of him doing it. He flipped me off and said do something about it. The fine was 2700.00 which he refused to pay, so they attached his house. He ended up moving within a year.

Good for you. I live on and have farm land so I understand where you are coming from. 

We had some people near here that built homes next to farm land. When the owner of the farm  spread manure they went to the commissioners to get him stopped. The commissioners told them to take a hike. If they didn't like the smell go live somewhere else. 👍

Edited by Fossil (see edit history)
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We had a 2800 sq ft house on 5 acres in the Chicago and 20 years ago moved to Lexington KY When we built in IL the taxes were $2800 when we left after 18 years the taxes were $9000. The kids (both lawyers) that bought it just sold it and the taxes are $23000! When we went to KY we moved the decimal point over to the left one position. We built a 3600 sq ft house on 15 acres (we moved to downsize, my wife designed the new place) with taxes at $900. We stayed there 20 years and the taxes were $4000. Now in SC the taxes on a 2500 sq ft 1 acre place are $1200.  So no matter where you go the tax man follows!  It seems the license plate fees and restrictions on antique license plates are going the same way. They are going to get their money no matter where you go.   

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22 minutes ago, Fossil said:

You might want to consider galvanized instead. Black pipe tends to rust on the inside when use for air lines.

 

 

Actually, black pipe is recommended for air lines. Galvanizing is a sacrificial coating to slow the corrosion process but can flake off as it corrodes and ages getting into your tools.  While black pipe will rust over time, the particles are usually very fine. L copper is nice but rather expensive.

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I am using one straight run of 30' at ceiling height, then dropping 6' to a water separator. then back up to ceiling height to a main run with drops tapped off the top and through a second drier at each drop on both sides of the garage. I am using the new Milton V style high flow connections at all locations. I have an 80 gallon 6.5 compressor at one end and a 1 HP 30 gallon at the other. The small compressor maintains the system and the big one is for when we get serious. Kind of like "what would your air system be like if money wasn't an option".

 

When one thinks about the grand ideas this topic could generate the air system seems quite modest, but sometimes those are the most satisfying of your accumulation of treasures.

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 Right now my big compressor is centrally located and has a 50 foot hose reel. Also have a couple of 120vac air inflation devices and electric sockets at least every 8 feet and 4 feet off the ground (one set on a 2x4 above my compressor with a drop light/outlet reel that can reach all four corners.

 

Have twelve 4 foot fluorescent fixtures on three circuits in the big (23x45) garage and a few 4' LEDS for undercar light. Suspect will be converting to LEDs as ballasts fail and I run out of 4" tubes.

 

Current issue is locating the winch to remove hardtops since all of mine are two man lifts and my cats can't help which brings us back to with unlimited money I'd hire either a mechanic or an apprentice.

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Padgett have you looked at lifts for Jeep tops. Back when I owned a YJ and was looking for a Bimini Top it seems like there were some inexpensive lifts out there. There are several videos on you tube like this for DIY lifts.

 

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The guy in the video probably doesn't know the haplogroup he is in. All that hand waving currently has been coming from Joe Namath selling health insurance. Previously, when Joe was selling houses in some gully in Tennessee, Alex Trebek was waving his hands around like that selling death insurance. If you want to have some fun move your head as your eyes follow their hands and see how they react.

 

Each gesture (jester?) has a meaning. The kids say I am easy to entertain.

 

Note: always move your head up and down signaling yes, never side to side.

 

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)
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Interesting he never mentioned or show WHAT electric hoist. Have a 2,000 lb 12v winch that a new one is $65 on line but is not a bottom drop. Have not found anything for 200 or 400 lbs that is under $50. Otherwise am mounting winch on wall and using a 2:1 pulley arrangement. Top is about 60 lbs and rear window (heavy part) does not open. Also need to figure how not to crush the rubber moldings.

 

Are a couple on eBay for $300-$400 but "THE POWER HOIST IS NOT INCLUDED".

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6 hours ago, Fossil said:

You might want to consider galvanized instead. Black pipe tends to rust on the inside when use for air lines.

 

 

 Black pipe is the prefered pipe.

 Galvanized pipe flakes off on the inside and ends up in your air tools.

 

Whatever you do, DON'T use pvc. It shatters if it breaks and sends shards into anyone standing near.

Besides that, if a fire is near it, it melts and released a blast of air that  turns it into a blow torch.

Edited by Roger Walling (see edit history)
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9 hours ago, Stude Light said:

Actually, black pipe is recommended for air lines. Galvanizing is a sacrificial coating to slow the corrosion process but can flake off as it corrodes and ages getting into your tools.  While black pipe will rust over time, the particles are usually very fine. L copper is nice but rather expensive.

 

That's what the "air transformers" are for at every drop. aka, You run the pipe at compressor tank pressure, and have a regulator and filter at every point of use. This way the capacity of the pipe adds to the air storage capacity of the system.

 

I've had three systems (commercial and home) made from galvanized pipe, and had less trouble than all the black iron installations I've used in factories or seen at friends houses. At least the filter on a galvanized system just has to trap zinc. On a back iron system, the filter has to trap iron oxide. Those fine particles of iron oxide are not good on the innards of your tools either!

 

You say "over time" but I see black iron spitting rust in the first year of use around here.

 

Black iron is for "gas" as in LPG or natural, or other DRY gas. Nothing that contains water vapor. Of course if you live in the desert it probably works for compressed air, but not here in the humid east.😲

 

My current home garage system is type L copper..... brazed with silver solder.....  Not sure if it is easier to braze copper than thread galvanized. But there is less chance of fire damage with galvanized.😉

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8 hours ago, padgett said:

Otherwise am mounting winch on wall and using a 2:1 pulley arrangement.

On the wall mounting will keep you out of the attic which is always good.  I see your point about not crushing the weather strip. 

 

 

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For what it's worth, our shop used to be a facility where they would cut granite countertops and those tools used a lot of air and water. We have hundreds of feet of 3-inch galvanized pipe running all through the building with air drops all over the place--part of the reason why I liked the building so much when we were looking. All that pipe keeps the air cool and dry and my 8-horsepower 80-gallon compressor keeps it at 100 PSI without any trouble. We use driers and filters at the critical locations (in the shop where we're using air tools and at the sandblast cabinet) but everywhere else is so far away from the compressor that it's unlikely water will reach the ports. The main 3-inch line is also up on the ceiling so the feed from the compressor goes straight up 20 feet--unlikely that any moisture will make that climb. Mostly we just use the drops for filling tires--nice to not have to drag hoses all over the shop, just one light-duty coil hose from point to point to fill up each car. The other nice thing is that all that large-diameter pipe just about tripled the capacity of the compressor. When I would run the sandblast cabinet at my old shop (home) it would run almost constantly. Now it tops off the system while I'm blasting and stays off about half the time. I can run my die grinder (a notorious air hog) for like 10 minutes before the compressor kicks on. That's A LOT of air!

 

All the pipe is galvanized and I have to assume the guys who installed it knew what they were doing given that the CNC-controlled cutting tables they were using were probably scary expensive. Yes, there's the possibility that the galvanizing can flake off, but it's not guaranteed and I think I'd rather risk possible big flakes rather than guaranteed fine dust in my tools.

 

If it's mission-critical, I'd use stainless tubing with something like Swage-Lok fittings, but that's probably overkill for anything but paint work.

 

Edited by Matt Harwood (see edit history)
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Take a look at the MaxLine semi-flexible piping by RapidAir.  It uses tubing with an inner and outer layer of HDPE plastic and a middle layer of aluminum combined with compression fittings. It can be cut easily and bent around corners. No rust or galvanizing issues, light enough for one guy to install, not too expensive.  I plumbed my 3-bay garage and shop with it (3/4” size) a couple of years ago. 

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/maxline

 

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image.thumb.jpeg.217b8ad78f06c1f7438823a9afd58dea.jpeg

 

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I installed a Rapid Air system last year (not at my house, commercial use) and it was EASY to install! Just like plumbing a house in PEX, except no crimp fittings, tighten with a wrench (OK, two wrenches). Bought it at Summit Racing.

 

If I had not already halfway finished a copper system at my house, I would have started with this!😉

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3 hours ago, Gary_Ash said:

Take a look at the MaxLine semi-flexible piping by RapidAir.  It uses tubing with an inner and outer layer of HDPE plastic and a middle layer of aluminum combined with compression fittings. It can be cut easily and bent around corners. No rust or galvanizing issues, light enough for one guy to install, not too expensive.  I plumbed my 3-bay garage and shop with it (3/4” size) a couple of years ago. 

https://www.rapidairproducts.com/maxline

 

image.thumb.jpeg.d9c7cbe015cdf4dc395ec6460a505d2d.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.217b8ad78f06c1f7438823a9afd58dea.jpeg

 

image.thumb.jpeg.f99d756312c8c1de46a1746b8e3dab9f.jpeg

 

That product looks familiar, and it was sold as 'Kitec' here:  https://www.reco.on.ca/wp-content/uploads/NS-REC-kitec.pdf

 

In pluming & heating (or 'wet') applications, there were issues with it.

 

Craig

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