WTB Complete Power Steering set up from '52 Buick Roadmaster

[roadmaster_56]

Hello:

I'm looking for a complete power steering set up from a '52 Buick Roadmaster (1st year it was available). 

Must be able to ship to central California.

 

All of the items below are needed:

 

-Steering column with Dynaflow shift lever (don't need the steering wheel)

-Steering gear w/power cylinder

-pump with pulley

-crankshaft double pulley

-pitman arm

-reservoir

-all piping

[MrEarl]

@roadmaster_56 you might want to broaden your search to power steering units of large series 53 thru 55 as they will interchange fairly easily. Do you still have the straight 8? If so, that complicates things but there are work-arounds.

[MrEarl]

This should help                            
 

 

BUICK POWER STEERING CONVERSION

By Bill Bicknell BCA # 738

aka Professor Nailhead

Part # 1

Driving any of the big Buicks is an enjoyable experience but can be more enjoyable if the car has power steering instead of manual steering. Buick introduced power steering in 1952. Many ’52 Roadmasters came with power steering, but the Buick literature also references this option as being available on ’52 Super models.

This article is intended to give enough information to help understand the process of converting a car with manual steering to power steering and to give enough encouragement to someone interested in tackling the job – it can be done. The operation is done easily when the car is apart for restoration, but can be done with the front clip in place and even the front seat left in the car (although removal of the front seat is recommended).

The information herein applies to 1950 thru 1955 Buicks, but the process may work on earlier models too. This author has made this conversion for a 1950 Buick and several times on 1954 and 1955 Buicks and has compared dimensions on several steering boxes for these years. While there may be some differences, I believe the procedure will apply to all of these years. The 1956 and newer is different and easier since in 1956 the steering shaft was split and there is a rubber coupling between the shaft and the steering box. But for 1955 and earlier, the steering shaft is one piece and goes into a very complicated power steering box. The good news is that the power steering box assembly does not have to be taken apart to make the conversion from manual to power steering.

The geometry of the steering box, pitman arm, shaft and mounting to the frame is essentially the same for all models and therefore allows this conversion. The difference is the length of the steering shaft depending on the year and whether it is a large body (Roadmaster/Super) or small body (Century/Special) car. The steering shaft length may have to be lengthened or shortened depending on which car the power steering box is coming out of and which model it is going into. 

First, the steering wheel must be removed. Special care is needed to prevent damage to the horn wire contact. This is a spring-loaded fiber washer and brass contact on the end of the horn wire. A special tool or provision must be made so as not to damage this contact. The puller for the 1955 is a standard 2-bolt puller. However, for 1954 and earlier, a special 3-bolt puller is required with special step diameter bolts or rods.

The steering column has the shifter mechanism and the turn signal wiring in a housing that slides over the steering shaft. It is easiest if the front seat is removed, but can be done with the seat in place by putting protective blankets on the seat material. This column may be removed, or just tilted down after removing the under-dash bracket and when the steering box is loose from the frame. The column is attached to the steering box by a clamp where the column slides over the steering box (engine side of firewall). Once this is loose, and the turn signal wires disconnected from the fuse panel, the column assembly can be slid off the steering box. Just above the clamp is the electrical contact for the horn. Unsnap the connector and remove the spring-loaded contact from the column that is attached with two screws. Where the column assembly goes through the firewall, there is a rubber pad. This requires removal of the pad from inside the car and also on some models a steel bar on the engine side of the firewall needs to be removed to allow movement of the whole assembly.

At this point, the pitman arm should be removed from the steering box or disconnected from the lateral steering rod by removing the spring-loaded tensioner in the end of the rod.

The steering box is attached to the frame with four bolts and using U-shaped supports that are split to allow assembly. The steering box can be detached from the frame by removing the four bolts and U-shaped brackets/clamps. 

WARNING: The steering boxes, manual and power are heavy and it is difficult to lift and maneuver them. Be careful when lifting these heavy items!

Once everything is loose, the entire assembly needs to be tilted to allow the column assembly inside the car to lie on the seat (if the seat is not removed entirely), and the steering box lifted out through the engine compartment. This is the most difficult part, but it can be done.

Once the steering box assembly has been removed, lay the manual box next to the power steering box and compare the measurements of the length from the box to the end of the steering shaft. In order for the assembly to fit, this dimension must be the same for proper fit of the steering wheel when re-assembled.

If the units are the same length, then re-assembly is next. If the shafts are not the same length, then cutting and welding is needed. Again, this can be done without disassembling the steering box. But first – remove the horn wire by un-soldering the wire at the lower end where it comes out of the shaft and is attached to a brass sleeve. The brass sleeve is insulated from the shaft with an internal rubber sleeve, so do not let the soldering iron get the brass sleeve any hotter than necessary to remove the wire. (Same on re-assembly, solder as quickly as possible.)

When cutting and welding the shaft to modify the length, the cut should be made near the top, about 10-12” from the upper end. There are three things to watch for carefully – 1) a good quality weld for strength; 2) good shaft alignment so the steering wheel will not wobble or side load the upper bearing; and 3) that there is still a hole in the center of the shaft after welding for the horn wire. The last item is generally not a problem, but the closer the weld to the top of the shaft, the easier it is to correct. An extended drill can be used to open up the center if weld slag has blocked the wire passage.

Part 2

Next is re-assembly, which is just the opposite of the disassembly described above. Yes, there are a lot of parts and a lot of work, but the reward is worth it.

Once the power steering box is in place and all re assembly done, the next step is the power steering pump. This will be divided into comments for 1953-56 V8 engines and 1953 and earlier Straight-8 engines.

V8 Engines: The crankshaft pulley needs to be changed to the double groove type. On some engines this is a single piece cast pulley that has to be changed completely. On some engines this was changed to a damper type hub that has bolted on individual pulleys. If this is the case, just the extra pulley can be bolted to the hub.

Next is the power steering pump. Any pump from 1953-56 can be made to work, but each year is different as follows:

1. 1953 – Reservoir is taller than 54-56 and cannot be used on newer one due to hood clearance. Lid is stamped steel. Bracket has two slots for adjusting the belt tension.

2. 1954 – Reservoir height is shorter like 55-56, OK to use on 1953. Lid is same stamped steel as 1953. Bracket is same.

3. 1955 – Lid is cast aluminum with raised lettering. Bracket has one hole and one slot that allows pump to be tilted to tension belt. Note: this is a much easier adjustment than the two-slot design.

4. 1956 – Lid and bracket are all the same as 55, but the pump and reservoir are different than 53-55. The difference is in the fluid return line. On 53-55 the return hose looks like the high pressure hose and has the same type fittings that attach to the rear of the pump. On the 56, there is only one fitting for the high pressure hose on the rear of the pump. The return line is a smaller hose that returns to a tube on the side if the reservoir with just a hose clamp. (It’s low pressure anyway, so no problem.)

Note 1: The color of the power steering bracket is engine green, not black. There is also an angle brace about 7-8” long that goes from the pump bracket to the left cylinder head. This is needed to stabilize the pump and it is also painted engine green.

Note 2: When the bolts from the water manifold are removed to install the pump bracket, water will run out the bolt holes. You can either drain the water level down or change the bolts and install the bracket quickly without losing too much water.

Straight-8 Engines: The 2-groove pulley for the Straight-8 engine is almost impossible to find. Also, the pump mounts with a special bracket to the front of the block and water pump with a separate reservoir mounted to the cylinder head. If these parts are not available, there are a couple of options. 

1. Use a 53-56 V8 pump and make a special bracket that mounts it above the generator. Get a 2-groove pulley for the generator and use the extra groove to drive the pump from the generator. The 2-groove pulleys were used on the Buick generators for cars with air conditioning.

2. Use a combination generator/power steering pump unit from a 57-58 Chevrolet with power steering. Some adapters will be required for the hose connections. Chrysler also offered a generator/power steering pump combination unit in about 1951-54(??). However, it was an Auto-Lite generator, not a Delco.

Bill Bicknell, BCA #738

[roadmaster_56]

Thank you MrEarl for the excellent power steering conversion write up....it contains exactly the info I'm seeking.  Do you recommend a rebuild of the steering gear and pump.... if I find one..... or are they (generally) in good shape at their advanced age?  I plan to keep the Super's straight 8 (great motor) and eventually add the dual carb setup from a 41 (which I already have).  Will that present any clearance problems with the steering box or pump?

 

I'd like this to be my winter project, so I'd better start scouring the parts yards and Craigslist now.  The crankshaft double pulley sounds like the hardest item to find....wonder if a good machine shop could duplicate one? 

If anyone has leads to parts on my list please let me know.

Thanks.

David in Santa Cruz

[roadmaster_56]

...Just got the response below to my WTB for "complete power steering set up from a '52 Buick Roadmaster ' post. 

I checked the respondent's email and several people have complained of being scammed by him/her/it....you can check for yourself by googling "jamieretmag@gmail.com"....seems to have 100 or so different emails with which to scam. 

 

Save yourself the aggravation, always check first before responding.

 

Merry Christmas to you too jamieretmag ......

 

"Hi and Merry Christmas,

 We are dealers in Complete Power Steering set . We are located in Oakland CA and can arrange delivery. Please email me on jamieretmag@gmail.com or (747) 204-3620"

[2carb40]

I sent you a private massage, as I have a few of those parts. 

[oldironfarmer]

I see this is an old post but wondering if you found these parts and were able to successfully convert your car?