6 volt electric fuel pump low preasure wanted

[panelbeater1234]

Would someone have on for sale ie for a 1928 standard dodge  6 cyl  .or where to purchess ....Regards John

[edinmass]

My guess is you are having problems with a vacuum tank. Your carburetor is NOT made to hold back fuel pressure from a pump, it is made for gravity only. An electric pump will push past the float and dump fuel causing a huge fire hazard. Do NOT put an electric pump on any car that came new with a vacuum tank. If you need parts or service for a tank, they are easy to obtain. I just started a 1917 car that sat for 81 years, took the tank apart to clean it, and installed a new gasket on the top, and its working fine with all the original components and springs. Let us know what you need for help.........we will try and point you in the right direction.

[reoinwi]

NAPA sells a low pressure pump 6V rated 2-6 pounds pressure.  I just bought one 2 weeks ago. 

[carbking]

To add to Ed's comments:

 

Most updraft carburetors were originally designed for gravity feed; either gravity from the fuel tank, or gravity from the vacuum tank.

 

The fuel inlet in the carburetor was sized for the vertical distance the fuel traveled. As an example, on a fairly small Stromberg carburetor for a small 6 cylinder engine, Stromberg specified a fuel inlet of 0.125 if the vertical distance was 13 inches, and 0.140 if the vertical drop was 9 inches.

 

Contrast this to a 1971 Pontiac 455 H.O. (with pressure pump) with an orifice of 0.135 inches.

 

If you figure the "pressure" with a vertical drop of 13 inches, it is about 1 psi.

 

So, some are already saying "OK, that is why I also bought a pressure regulator"!

 

Check this link: http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Electric_fuel_pumps_and_old_cars.htm

 

So now, some are thinking "why not simply machine a different size fuel valve"?

 

And this can be done, and it WILL help, MARGINALLY! If one looks at the placement of the float pin in relation to the buoyancy of the float and the distance to the fuel orifice, still the MAXIMUM pressure that most updraft carbs with modifications can withstand would be less than 2 psi.

 

I don't like the word "never" so won't say never use the electric pump; but if you do use it, a pressure gauge at the carburetor when dialing in the pump is a good insurance policy.

 

Understand the problem, not just band-aid the symptom.

 

Jon.

[edinmass]

People just don't understand how dangerous an electric pump is on these early SW Tank cars...........I have watched million dollar cars burn on the side of the road.......and have friends who's garages and one his house burn to the ground.........the tanks work FINE, the only issue is, you need to put time and effort into them. Also, cars with factory pressurized systems should have an emergency relief valve to dump the pressure in the event of a stuck or sunk float.......the 1914 Packard at Amelia this year burned for fifteen minutes because the 7 fire extinguishers couldn't put it out.....it went out when the fire truck showed up. 

[Grimy]

1 hour ago, edinmass said:

Also, cars with factory pressurized systems should have an emergency relief valve to dump the pressure in the event of a stuck or sunk float......

Pierces (and probably others) do indeed have a pressure release valve--otherwise how would you fuel the car at a gas station?  For a Pierce, turn the hand pump knob so the arrow points to 9 o'clock to dump pressure.  (12 o'clock to pump up pressure, 3 o'clock to hold pressure.)  I dump pressure if I'll be stopped for more than 30 minutes or if the car will be out of my sight.  I saw an engine fire in a Pierce 66 on the Modoc Tour about 15 years ago where the owner did not have the presence of mind to immediately dump pressure and roll away from the puddling, burning gas--fortunately, the guy right behind him knew what to do.  The car needed only a hood repaint...