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1935 Buick For sale on CL - $12,000 Not Mine


B Jake Moran
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https://madison.craigslist.org/cto/d/mount-horeb-1935-buick/7215766154.html

 

Content:

1935 Buick - $12,000
Complete Original Survivor
25,000 Miles - 2-Car Owner with Original Title
Straight Eight 3-Speed on the Floor
Has been in storage approximately 10 years.
I was told it was parked because clutch was slipping in 2nd and 3rd gears.
Call Tom - 608-523-4702

 

00X0X_lTJQIIQfqst_0zu0of_600x450.jpg

 

1935 Buicks are rare, and rarely offered.  

 

 

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Yes me too.  I don't keep my Bugles but I remember articles from Pete that basically, in my mind, all 1931-1935 Buicks are rare, even the smaller series.  So when I see them in my searches I try to post, at least decent ones.  I think I missed one, a 1934 which was posted higher up in the "Not Mine" section that also was in this class of Buick.  Grilles do it for me.  I love the 36-38 grilles but there is real style in the 33-35 grilles as well.  

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7 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:

Yes me too.  I don't keep my Bugles but I remember articles from Pete that basically, in my mind, all 1931-1935 Buicks are rare, even the smaller series.  So when I see them in my searches I try to post, at least decent ones.  I think I missed one, a 1934 which was posted higher up in the "Not Mine" section that also was in this class of Buick.  Grilles do it for me.  I love the 36-38 grilles but there is real style in the 33-35 grilles as well.  

 

The Buick Bugle December 2010 had Pete's coverage of 1934/35 Buicks.  

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8 hours ago, B Jake Moran said:

Yes me too.  I don't keep my Bugles but I remember articles from Pete that basically, in my mind, all 1931-1935 Buicks are rare, even the smaller series.  So when I see them in my searches I try to post, at least decent ones.  I think I missed one, a 1934 which was posted higher up in the "Not Mine" section that also was in this class of Buick.  Grilles do it for me.  I love the 36-38 grilles but there is real style in the 33-35 grilles as well.  

Jake, I’m gonna tell you something here that you probably already know.  First, this car can be yours for $10k or less.  The owner wants it gone, he doesn’t even know the model and he doesn’t want to overwinter it.  Start at $8,500 and work it from there.  But, make sure door wood is solid.
 

Second Jake, your bank interest might be a tenth of a percent.  So, you can own this car for nothing.  Clean it up real good and make it reliable.  Drive it and love it and keep it original.  when you buy something reasonably priced that will hold its value, it costs you almost nothing.  

tell us us all about it after you buy it!  I agree it’s one of the most beautiful Buicks Buick made.

 

Joel

 

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2 hours ago, MrEarl said:

I emailed and asked for interior, mechanical and data plate pictures the first day Jake posted, no response 

 

The seller has added additional interior and engine bay photos to his Craigs list advert.

 

I have to say this is a very original car, original wood grain finish on the Dash, original upholstery, mechanicals all look original. This is not a restoration proposition, this is a survivor. A few days of detailing would see this car the centre of attention at any car show - dents and all!

 

Hoping someone from here gives it a new home.    

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On 10/23/2020 at 12:59 AM, Buick35 said:

Seems like it the clutch were slipping,wouldn't it slipped in first gear also? I hope I never have to replace mine,Greg.

IMG_20191015_150107_hdr.jpg

 

Have experienced clutch slip in top gear but in my case it was a simple adjustment to the linkage. 

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13 hours ago, Morgan Wright said:

 

My '40 clutch was slipping but only above 25 MPH. Never slipped in 1st gear. I can't tell you why, I have to think about it.

 

A rear main crankshaft seal getting oil onto the clutch could be a culprit.

 

A slipping clutch is more likely to slip in higher gears as the engine is "working Harder" just like trying to drive away from a stop in high gear as compared to Low.

Before buying an old beater back in the 1950s, we wold take the car a few blocks away, pull up against a phone pole, rev the engine and try to push while in 3rd gear.

If the car stalled then the clutch was good, but if the engine was more likely to rev some, then a clutch job was probably in your future - not what we wanted in a cheapo beater, or a car bought to clean up, do some minor tune-up, quick cheap repair, and then flip. 

A clutch on a pre-1953 Chevy meant pulling the rear-end with torque tube and then the tranny. A Pontiac or Plymouth was quicker if a clutch was needed. A valve job on a Chevy, or even a Buick was relatively quick and easy if doing your own grinding, and the local machine shop charged $2 or $3 per cylinder if you brought them the head, and a full head gasket set was pretty cheap too.

Edited by Marty Roth
typo (see edit history)
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