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1964 Riviera parts for sale - pre Halloween sale - make an offer!!!


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Some of these have been previously posted, others not.  Make a reasonable offer on anything.  Buyer pays actual shipping costs. 

 

If you're interested in anything, shoot me a PM.

 

If you need something not shown, ask, I may have it on the shelf.

 

1147078313_haloweensale.thumb.jpg.fadb36d7f04b63d57b91cd109cf8873b.jpg

 

Radio crackles through speaker when powered up

 

Courtesy light switch passed continuity test

 

I think the windshield washer switch is missing something that pushes the plunger to activate the washer.

 

Thanks,

David

 

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14 hours ago, RivNut said:

What is the number on the AFB.  $$??

 

See pic's below.  Looks like 1585 or 1586, the last digit is not the best stamp.  There is no stamp on the aluminum tab or under the tab.

 

$45 and buyer pays actual shipping cost.

 

carb4.thumb.jpg.16725de77447508ebc4c8c90a0033ad9.jpg

carb5.jpg.8156822503696b61f9f52ac2ef33d633.jpg

carb1.thumb.jpg.9971718ba0926d1d07ff8461dd4c1786.jpg

carb2.jpg.59b9fa8fcdf23ea5ea8a3bc798e33649.jpg

carb3.jpg.7a54b4ed9d093d197ed8b315e08ae0b5.jpg

 

 

 

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On the front of the carburetor, passenger side, there is a number stamped into the base.  Here's a picture of the location. The picture is for location reference, the code on the pictures carb is not applicable.

 

post-48121-1431425052_thumb.jpg.934152273733bc6efcb1a2ea8558ac6e.jpgthe SA and H2 are not applicable to the identification either, just the four digits.  I think you should be looking for 3665. May have an S following the 3665.

 

Ed

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1 hour ago, telriv said:

The "A" stands for the 1st. revision of that carb. number.  And "B" & so-on.

 

So it looks like my carb is a 1st revision... 

 

carb7.jpg.0f360f339bc450af2182c7f4a67ecb96.jpg

 

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8 hours ago, psychostang said:

Is the power antenna mast broken?

Yes.   The motor spins in both directions but nothing else moves.

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2 hours ago, awk409ak said:

RivCat,

Is the clock already gone?

 

Art

Is your clock missing or just not working?  It's a pretty simple process to get these clocks running again.

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2 hours ago, awk409ak said:

RivCat,

Is the clock already gone?

 

Art

 

Clock is still in the dash.

 

Service manual doesn't really say much about removing the clock.   Any words of advice on how to remove the clock?

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Get a good grip on it and turn it counter clockwise to release from it the spring clip.  Some guys have found it easier to remove by slipping the cap from an aerosol paint can over the clock bezel. It's very difficult to get a grip on. It simply pulls out of the front of the dash.  It will be tight, so don't think its stuck.  It's especially difficult because of the bezels of the speedometer and gauges being so close.  Once it's loose, there will be a 12V wire and a light bulb that will need to be removed before you can remove it completely. 

 

Once you get it out, start a new thread (leave this thread for RivCat to sell his parts) on "getting my clock working again."  It is actually a mechanical clock. The 12V wire is used to wind a main spring. That takes but a fraction of a second. Once the mainspring is wound, the clock works off the spring until the spring winds down, a zip of 12V winds it again, and the cycle repeats itself.

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1 hour ago, RivCat said:

 

Clock is still in the dash.

 

Service manual doesn't really say much about removing the clock.   Any words of advice on how to remove the clock?

There is a lot of information here regarding clock removal and repair:

 

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4 hours ago, awk409ak said:

RivCat,

Is the clock already gone?

 

Art

 

Art,

 

I pulled the dash and got the clock out.  I need to remove the spring holder from the dash yet and cut the wires with the connectors that run to the clock.

 

The bezel has some fine pitting.

 

Let me know if you're interested.

 

David

 

clock1.jpg.7a71dc68a42a3d9bb15dfe8a4c94ab4e.jpgclock2.jpg.a0280acb263973d5387a9728518d0e9b.jpgclock3.jpg.70e6c9605f15d612c559e22d17dd2596.jpgclock4.jpg.93b6ba9c364d081e4eceb4aa9b9e1be5.jpg

 

 

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15 hours ago, RivNut said:

Is your clock missing or just not working?  It's a pretty simple process to get these clocks running again.

Hi RivNut,

My clock works fine, a little fast, but works.  I was looking for the housing only to try install a small tach in the clock housing.

 

Art

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57 minutes ago, awk409ak said:

David,

I think I will keep looking.   Like I said I don't need the clock, just the housing with no guts.  If the clock works, no reason to separate it.

Thanks,

Art

I'll try and bench test it soon and let you know what I find...

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1 hour ago, awk409ak said:

David,

I think I will keep looking.   Like I said I don't need the clock, just the housing with no guts.  If the clock works, no reason to separate it.

Thanks,

Art

Art,

Are you looking for a housing for something other than a clock?  The clock bezel has the hole for the clock stem.  If you're looking for a plain bezel, find one out of a '63 or '64 LeSabre that did not come with a clock.

 

s-l1600.jpg

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Once again, my Evelyn Woods speed reading course made me leave out the details of your previous post.  It says right there that you're looking for a bezel for a tachometer.  I think the blank from a 63 / 64 not equipped with a clock would be a good place to start.  I wouldn't have that bump at the bottom with a hole in it for the clock stem.

 

Ed

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Hi Ed,

Sorry been away from PC for a night.  That a good idea. Don't know how easy that is to fine.  Does that twist out like a clock does?  I can also replace the lense so I don't have the hole if I used a clock.  Don't you think it would be easier to modify a clock?

 

Art

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17 minutes ago, awk409ak said:

Hi Ed,

Sorry been away from PC for a night.  That a good idea. Don't know how easy that is to fine.  Does that twist out like a clock does?  I can also replace the lense so I don't have the hole if I used a clock.  Don't you think it would be easier to modify a clock?

 

Art

My clock does not pass a bench test.  Hooked up juice to it and the second hand does not move.  Let me know if there are any parts from the housing that would help your project.

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Art,

 

!st. off to find the blockoff plate Ed is talking about would be a hard find.

 

    I installed a tach in a customers '64 Wildcat years ago.  I don't know the brand it was or made by whom.. All I know is that it fit perfectly into the hole left by the clock.  Fit tight enough that I didn't have to do anything other to install it. Was a tight fit into the clock hole.  

Measure the opening or the OD of the clock & do a search I'm sure you'll find one that meets the diameter required.  I remember that I used the clock light bulb & wired it into the tach.

 

Tom T.

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2 hours ago, awk409ak said:

Hi Ed,

Sorry been away from PC for a night.  That a good idea. Don't know how easy that is to fine.  Does that twist out like a clock does?  I can also replace the lense so I don't have the hole if I used a clock.  Don't you think it would be easier to modify a clock?

 

Art

I am pretty sure, but not positive.  

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2 hours ago, RivCat said:

My clock does not pass a bench test.  Hooked up juice to it and the second hand does not move.  Let me know if there are any parts from the housing that would help your project.

As previously stated the clock is not electric, it's mechanical. A milli-second jolt of 12V just winds a mainspring.  Take the clock out of the housing and gently spray the works with some compressed air to clean out the dust, or maybe some of that canned air used in computers.  Then try the 12V again. If the main spring winds but the clock won't run, hold the clock in your hand with the face in your palm. Then as vigorously as you can rotate the clock back and forth. You'll be emulating the movement of the clocks internal movements. Hopefully you can get things moving.  If 12V doesn't wind the mainspring, wind it with your finger. Then try the hand rotating.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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Just now, RivNut said:

As said previously, the clock is not electric, it's mechanical.  A milli-second of 12V just causes the main spring to wind. The clock then runs on the mainspring.  Clean the contact points.   Gently spray the works with some compressed air to clean out the dust, or maybe some of that canned air used in computers.  Then try the 12V again. If the main spring winds but the clock won't run, hold the clock in your hand with the face in your palm. Then as vigorously as you can rotate the clock back and forth. You'll be emulating the movement of the clocks internal movements. Hopefully you can get things moving.  If I remember correctly, you can wind the mainspring by moving the contact with your finger. 

Ed

PS you cannot do anything to get the clock working until you take it out of its housing.  Very tiny phillips head screws. Don't lose them.

 

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