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1932 Plymouth PA Pinion


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  • broker-len changed the title to 1932 Plymouth PA Pinion

If it's like most pinions just tighten it until there is no motion sideways or fore-aft in the pinion shaft, then apply a LITTLE more to give it a bit of preload. it should turn freely in the bit of backlash that you can feel, with a slight bit of drag from the preload. When you can't decide if it's too loose or too tight- - it is right.   :) 

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Old RP(Recomended Pratice) is when adjusting preload on used parts it should be some less then when adjusting newly set up fresh parts..This is were an educated feel comes in handy..


32 plymouths are pretty stout..You get it layman close you'll be fine.


Oldtech has a good plan of attack.

Follow through with it.

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Unfortunately torque specifications don’t seem to have been published for any Plymouth until the middle of the 1930s.


A later design by the same engineering staff shows the “Rear Axle Drive Pinion Flange Nut” torqued to 180 ft-lbs. minimum for the late 1940s cars.


I got that nut as tight as I could with a 18 inch breaker bar. If yours is like mine, there is also an almost impossible to install cotter pin that goes through that nut once you get it tightened.

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My BOI describes installing universal joint flange on to pinion splines until it's rear face ,contacts bearings front face . The universal joint flange is then locked rigidly in place by the nut on the front end .

  Since Broker found his finger tight and I found mine loosen, with the weight of my 3/4" breaker bar and socket ,just touching it . It does  not need much more then , firmly , or a touch ,a skoch , finger weight .LOL.

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Thanks for all the  posts      I found some additional info for the 4 cylinder plymouth------there is no preload till 1933--Tom pointed out to me my own manual which states tighten flange nut-----RIGIDLY----I guess  just enough to eliminate any movement ---------------THANKS TOM

ATT163402 (1).jpg

Edited by broker-len (see edit history)
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Just read this, maybe you have it solved?

unlike the modern pinions that use a crush sleeve to 

set preload, these old Chrysler products use a solid

collar between the two bearings. the preload is determined 

by adding or subtracting shims. I think I torqued mine to 125 FTLBS.

(that was some 30 years ago...!) If you have trouble with aligning the

holes for this cotter pin line up,  remove the nut and file some material off

the base. This will change the position of it when tightened.

Nice looking car, by the way!

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