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Car trailer value guide?


Bhigdog
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Suspect a scan of CraigsList would be your best guide. It has a section on "trailers". Locally there is a 2017 "toy hauler for $56k. Also depends on what you want: I have a tow dolly (no license or insurance needed in Florida) and for anything else I go to U-Haul.

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 I could be wrong, but I have owned a transport business for 38 years now & I have never seen one. There are so many small companies building them with so many variables, I can't imagine anyone could keep track of them all. Over the last 15-20 years, I just buy the best available aluminum open & enclosed trailers, because I put so many miles on them. 

 

Racinjunk has a used trailer section you might check out!

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

Edited by Bills Auto Works (see edit history)
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Go to racing junk.com

 

They have a large trailer section

 

bought my last four used trailers there.

 

 

Remember, there are two types of used trailers........unused low miles units......and beat to death.

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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41 minutes ago, 61polara said:

What I've generally found looking at used trailers is that the sellers are asking very high prices, close to new cost, they need all tires replace and the brakes repaired and many times the lights as well.  Shop around.

 

Agreed! Unless you know or knew the owner I would avoid a used one. Most cases they are used up not used.

 

2 hours ago, padgett said:

(no license or insurance needed in Florida)

  

Seems like Florida is the place to be for many people without a drivers license, and insurance for that matter, after all it is a sunny place for shady people.......

 

 

All kidding aside...... FYI the trailer falls under the liability insurance of the tow vehicle (except for theft and contents),and that is in every state. Unless the tow vehicle is not rated for the GVW, then there most likely would be no liability coverage for both. Not having to insure things is not something to be proud of.  As Bobby Bare wrote:

 

"If you ain't got nothin' you ain't got nothin' to lose"  

 

If that is the case, why be concerned

 

Bob, I am not sure what your looking for but new trailers are not that expensive. If you see a used one and there are cracks on the sides around the fasteners there could be bigger problems then just tires and brakes

 

I

 

Edited by John348 (see edit history)
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I have probably towed over 250K miles and never owned  a new trailer.  Just be patient and take your time.  Have your requirements ahead of time and don't compromise.  You can't believe how shoddy some trailer construction is.  I once looked at a trailer where the tie down brackets were attached to the 1/2 inch plywood floor with wood screws.  I for one don't believe the premium for aluminum is worth it unless you tow vehicle is light duty or you plan on towing frequently. On a 24 ft enclosed trailer I doubt you are reducing the weight by 800# or less.  Your diesel tow vehicle with 800 to 1000 pounds of torque doesn't know the difference.  If you buy used plan on rebuilding the brakes, packing the bearings and new tires.  As an example I paid $9000.00 for my 48 ft gooseneck tri axle in 2009.  It was built in 2005.  Also plan on installing a wench and get the 10-12K model.  Remember that a wench only pulls it's stated load on the first row of winding.  My TCW, others will have different experiences.

 

Sorry, I thought you were looking to buy, not sell

Edited by Robert G. Smits
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17 minutes ago, Robert G. Smits said:

I have probably towed over 250K miles and never owned  a new trailer.  Just be patient and take your time.  Have your requirements ahead of time and don't compromise.  You can't believe how shoddy some trailer construction is.  I once looked at a trailer where the tie down brackets were attached to the 1/2 inch plywood floor with wood screws.  I for one don't believe the premium for aluminum is worth it unless you tow vehicle is light duty or you plan on towing frequently. On a 24 ft enclosed trailer I doubt you are reducing the weight by 800# or less.  Your diesel tow vehicle with 800 to 1000 pounds of torque doesn't know the difference.  If you buy used plan on rebuilding the brakes, packing the bearings and new tires.  As an example I paid $9000.00 for my 48 ft gooseneck tri axle in 2009.  It was built in 2005.  Also plan on installing a wench and get the 10-12K model.  Remember that a wench only pulls it's stated load on the first row of winding.  My TCW, others will have different experiences.

 

Sorry, I thought you were looking to buy, not sell

Still good info. Thanks..bob

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22 minutes ago, edinmass said:

It’s easy to value.

 

gvw

wheel size

door height 

extras

year

construction of walls
replacement cost

 

post a photo

 

Off the top of my head......

2005 24' haulmark. 

10k gvw

Dexter axles

72" door height.

15" wheels

2 side doors. Driver side escape. Off side forward door. 

Winch & power hitch.

Extra wheels and spares.

Receiver, hitch, load levelers and anti sway included. 

New brake shoes two tows ago.

Always under roof.

Tires excellent but trailer tires SUCK.

I would say for the year above average.

Certainly not pristine but just as ceraintly not clapped out.

I take care of my stuff.....bob

 

 

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Without photos..........5-6k

 

The 72 inches is a big plus for taller cars. 2005 Haulmark was still good trailer for the era. Better than the cheap junk today you see. If the roof leaks, or other issues would be a deductible. Should sell easy........you need a title or it won’t sell.

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Just now, edinmass said:

Without photos..........5-6k

 

The 72 inches is a big plus for taller cars. 2005 Haulmark was still good trailer for the era. Better than the cheap junk today you see. If the roof leaks, or other issues would be a deductible. Should sell easy........you need a title or it won’t sell.

Never a leak and currently titled and licenced. Question is whats a fair price. Not a fire sale. Not eating anything.

Thanks for that info ed. Not sure what i want to do. Don,t use it much anymore and yet hate to see it go......bob

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23 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:

Off the top of my head......

2005 24' haulmark. 

10k gvw

Dexter axles

72" door height.

15" wheels

2 side doors. Driver side escape. Off side forward door. 

Winch & power hitch.

Extra wheels and spares.

Receiver, hitch, load levelers and anti sway included. 

New brake shoes two tows ago.

Always under roof.

Tires excellent but trailer tires SUCK.

I would say for the year above average.

Certainly not pristine but just as ceraintly not clapped out.

I take care of my stuff.....bob

 

 

Bumper pull or gooseneck? 

I personally don't like bumper pull. A gooseneck pulls so much nicer.

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40 minutes ago, edinmass said:

The 72 inches is a big plus for taller cars. 

 

That's a nominal 6' trailer (actual door openings tend to be a couple of inches less).  I'm not knocking it, but there is nothing exceptional or special order about that.  A Model T needs a minimum 7' door opening to go in with the top up and most horseless carriage types need 8' (or more), so a 72" trailer is pretty much limited to postwar stuff, and even some of those cut it close.  To put it into perspective "shoebox" Ford wagons just barely clear a 70" door opening.  

 

Just food for thought so you (Bob) know who your target audience is -- which you probably already do.

 

 

 

 

Edited by W_Higgins (see edit history)
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I find the last 15 or 20 years that many trailers are bought on the cheap, and the door opening is less than the 72 he has. It won’t take a lot of the HCCA stuff top up, but top down would be fine. Also, it would take most CCCA cars.....but the 15 inch wheels and 10k would be a close call. Lots of people are looking for storage more than hauling ability........and the motorcycle crowd tend to buy older, well built units for the Daytona and Sturgis meets. I order my new trailers taller than standard........and never had a close call loading anything till a few months ago. My opening is 79 inches........and my 1917 White fit with a half in of clearance........with the tires half full of air. Too tall is a big wind load and hard on the tow vehicles.........my tag is a 34 foot box.........and I prefer them over the 5/goose neck which we also have. It takes a bit of time to get comfortable with a huge tag.....but you quickly get over it and it’s no big deal. 

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, W_Higgins said:

 

That's a nominal 6' trailer (actual door openings tend to be a couple of inches less).  I'm not knocking it, but there is nothing exceptional or special order about that.  A Model T needs a minimum 7' door opening to go in with the top up and most horseless carriage types need 8' (or more), so a 72" trailer is pretty much limited to postwar stuff, and even some of those cut it close.  To put it into perspective "shoebox" Ford wagons just barely clear a 70" door opening.  

 

Just food for thought so you (Bob) know who your target audience is -- which you probably already do.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   I was thinking the same thing! 72" seems a bit short to me. My door opening is 80 inches & since I do so many different cars (over 100 per year) I would not go any shorter. There are many "T"s & others from the era I cannot do.  Many of the early 50s' era pickups only have 3-4 inches clearance at  80"

 

  On the other end of the spectrum, since I put so many miles on mine I would not want to go much taller because everything I do is for the best fuel mileage.  Everything in life is a compromise, I just have to be resolved to the fact that there are some I cannot transport.

 

   Having said that, you will have no problem selling it. There are plenty of people who have one or two cars & only put those cars in it, so they will have no problem with the shorter opening.

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

Edited by Bills Auto Works (see edit history)
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Bill........I have a 15 T and it’s no where near as tall as my 17 White...........And while I am sure there are one or two exceptions.........I don’t think anything over 80 inches went down the road as private transportation. I think today the real cheap trailers being built have smaller door openings even at “standard” height. It’s really hard to explain to people how poor some trailers being sold are.........they are that bad. Recently a friend bought a 32 foot camper trailer.......half way home from the factory the frame folded and the thing hit the road surface. Nightmare to deal with.......including the DOT investigation and having to have it picked up and placed on a flat bed to get it off 95. 
 

Here is a shot of my White. My door is 79 inches, but the ramp, roof, and beaver tail make for the ability to drive In a car about 81 or 82 inches. The White only had the tires half full of air and were squatting. I had less than a half inch of clearance to the light. 

1B917CEE-CCA7-418F-9125-64C9FC2CDB5E.jpeg

85DF7CF3-06F8-4875-9F93-E9FA9CAEEB07.png

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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38 minutes ago, edinmass said:

Bill........I have a 15 T and it’s no where near as tall as my 17 White...........And while I am sure there are one or two exceptions.........I don’t think anything over 80 inches went down the road as private transportation.

 

That's peculiar because the '15 T that lives in my barn is 82" from the ground at the rear bow and the next bow ahead of it is a couple of inches higher than that.  There tends to be some variation amongst cars, but nothing like 6" and when this question comes up most T-touring owners of all years report that their car will just barely clear an actual 7' door opening.

 

Haulmark's are good upper-middle class trailers.  They are light years ahead of the stuff that comes out of Georgia.  I've used one quite a bit that describes almost exactly like the one listed here to move my Lincolns.  Finding a new home for it won't be a problem, but I know if it was me I would be reluctant to part with a good used quality trailer as finding an equivalent replacement will be way more difficult than selling this one should you change your mind in the future.  You should be able to snap your fingers and unload it any time you want.

 

 

 

 

P4040204.JPG

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Great! Now I need to take a look at the top on my T. To be honest, it's been down the last five years, and I have not put it in this particular trailer. 

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Back in the day it was common to make a race car hauler by removing the frame from a tandem axle mobile home, dropping the axles about 6" and creating a floor. Towed nice at 70 with a Corvette on back.

 

Used to to move from Indiana to Texas. Household was quite a load and axles bent on first corner. Jacked up and welded flat plate sliders that we greased to maintain camber. Made it to new home outside Austin at 50mph eventually. (I like warm climates in no-income-tax states).

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44 minutes ago, W_Higgins said:

 

That's peculiar because the '15 T that lives in my barn is 82" from the ground at the rear bow and the next bow ahead of it is a couple of inches higher than that.  There tends to be some variation amongst cars, but nothing like 6" and when this question comes up most T-touring owners of all years report that their car will just barely clear an actual 7' door opening.

 

Haulmark's are good upper-middle class trailers.  They are light years ahead of the stuff that comes out of Georgia.  I've used one quite a bit that describes almost exactly like the one listed here to move my Lincolns.  Finding a new home for it won't be a problem, but I know if it was me I would be reluctant to part with a good used quality trailer as finding an equivalent replacement will be way more difficult than selling this one should you change your mind in the future.  You should be able to snap your fingers and unload it any time you want.

 

 

 

 

P4040204.JPG

 

That's my trailer's twin except mine is a dark metallic green. Same doors, ramp, door latches, etc. Yeah, good advice about keeping it. I should take it out just to excercise it..........Bob

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My Pace is six years old........much better than what they build now. I had issues with warranty items. The trailer frame is overbuilt and heavy duty.....the box, not so much, and it’s their mid level line. The problem with the cheap trailers, is they are really cheap. It’s sad, but unless you dump 15-18 grand for a new premium unit, your going to be fixing and sealing with issues today.

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1 hour ago, SC38DLS said:

Ed what do you pull that 34 tag with? 


I have a GMC 3500 Crew Cab Dually, Duramax with the Allison. For 25 years it was a 7.3 Ford Powerstroke. We have smoked two new Duramax motors in the last 24 months. All the 3500 series trucks are having issues hauling heavy. I would prefer a 450 or 550 truck, bot don’t want to deal with the scales.

56C0D93F-253D-4DDE-9560-96B40D730935.png

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, edinmass said:

Great! Now I need to take a look at the top on my T. To be honest, it's been down the last five years, and I have not put it in this particular trailer. 

 

  Ed,

 

   There are several versions of "T"s that are around 84 inches & I have had to turn down many of their requests for transport. One other thing that I have ran into several times is a customer with a T type vehicle that has had the top UP for decades & does not want to take a chance on putting it down. fearing the material will rip.

 

  Sorry to hear you had engine issues! I love both of mine. I would not hit a dog in the &ss with a powerstroke. Back in the early 2000s My buddy had back surgery & couldn't drive. He didn't want to lose his contract hauling NEW Bentleys all over the country, so he asked me to drive his new F350 Lariat & a Featherlite 53 ft tri axle trailer with a lift in the front for smaller cars. I agreed if I could put one of my customers cars in from time to time The truck looked nice & the interior was comfortable, but my Duramaxes pulled harder & get MUCH better fuel mileage. I put probably 100,000 on that combo & it didn't matter empty or full, it got 9.9 mpg. I hated that thing! One time I convinced him to put another friends 02 GMC 3500 under the same trailer, 13.2 mpg to Pahrump, Nv & back. Since I only pull lightweight trailers these days mine get much better than that!

 

W. Higgins is correct also, the OPs trailer is a much higher quality than the junk coming out of Georgia. That stuff is very low end stuff, Tongues brake off, the floors sag & if you use them more than what a hobbyist does, you have to buy a new one every couple years.

 

Robert G. ....My Winches tend to last longer than my Wenches!😁

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

 

 

 

IMG_20181001_195137957 (640x360).jpg

IMG_20170824_122228832 (640x360).jpg

Edited by Bills Auto Works (see edit history)
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I had a 20' Horton Hauler with two 5500 lb Dexter Torqueflex axles,

4  wheel electric brakes, with inside beaver tail floor.  A really strong trailer that towed like a featherlight.  When I offered it for sale a guy drove 350 miles to get it to make a mobile kitchen out of it.  He built them for a living and knew how tough they were.  $3500.

We used it for 10 trips, FL to NC in 2012 to move our household and

barn/shop contents.  Moved 5 collector cars with our open Aluma aluminum car trailer.   I have some regrets of selling the Horton Hauler

because it was an extra garage space too.  If I had kept it, it would

have probably become a wood shop.  (But mountain side parking

space is at a premium.)

 

 

 

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I have a Wells Cargo and very happy with it. Check the difference in things like does it have door seals, aluminum gauge, stud centers, is the loading door going to bend with a heavy car or door heavy weight lift with a high door, exterior hardware going to rust. If it has rear loading jacks or torsion suspension also is a must for me. Is there a good barrier separating the aluminum from the steal. A few things to consider when buying a GOOD trailer.    

Edited by Joe in Canada (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, deaddds said:

Just asking, but is there a specific brand new worth investing in? Is it a weight class thing or a manufacturer that has good quality up and down its product line? 

 

Like Ed said...It is all about the money.

 

If you have the money & want the best, buy what I will be buying if & when I replace my 24 ft enclosed, an ATC. Expect to pay just under a thousand dollars a foot as they are the absolute best these days. Since I put so many miles on them, I cannot use a cheap trailer.

 

God Bless

Bill

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nationwide-single-car-transport-hauling-open-or-enclosed.614419/

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