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Source for interior wood inserts


BulldogDriver
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Started the process of ordering new interior parts for my car with Clarks. While discussing what they needed from me they informed me that they are not able to supply the wood inserts. They sourced these from someone and that has now gone away. They also said that they don't have a source at this time. 
 

I looked at the Owner’s club website and if my memory hasn't completely failed me there use to be sources for the inserts, there are none now.
 

Does anyone know who still makes inserts?
 

Ray

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On 10/3/2020 at 5:23 PM, BulldogDriver said:

Yes, Bob Scanlan‘S last advert was in the Jan/Feb 2020 issue. I’m going to reach out to him but still if someone knows of another source for wood veneers please let me know. 
 

Ray

Hey Bulldog

His phone doesn't work according to others who have tried to reach him.

I did some research and I think I found an obituary for the same name in Dennis Ma, where I believe he lived. Sad to loose him, if that is the case.

 

Brad

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I did this a couple months ago and it was a pain.

Smitty's website has very good points.

https://riviera65.com/portfolio-item/veneer-part-1-published-in-the-riview-march-april-2017/

  1. I used a soldering iron on the tabs when bending them over. I should've done this when removing the panels. The tabs will break off.
  2. Using sheet aluminum is a good idea, easier to position.
  3. I used pre-glued veneer that had to be ironed-on.

I struggled with sourcing aluminum but roof flashing from the same HW Box store I purchased the veneer from was just the ticket. Well almost, They were both in rolls.

The original foil backed veneer was about 40 mils thick. So, the new paper backed veneer was about 25 mils and the roof flashing 11 mils, perfect.

The trick is to cut the aluminum exactly as the old veneer. Then glue the veneer to the aluminum which never goes on perfect. But now, the excess veneer can be trimmed to the aluminum. If it weren't for the pieces wanting to curl, the piece should drop exactly into the steel panels. Use contact cement one side only and only on one end. The remainder of the panel can be glued with contact cement the next day after masking the wood from overspray.

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On 10/7/2020 at 11:09 PM, XframeFX said:

I did this a couple months ago and it was a pain.

Smitty's website has very good points.

https://riviera65.com/portfolio-item/veneer-part-1-published-in-the-riview-march-april-2017/

  1. I used a soldering iron on the tabs when bending them over. I should've done this when removing the panels. The tabs will break off.
  2. Using sheet aluminum is a good idea, easier to position.
  3. I used pre-glued veneer that had to be ironed-on.

I struggled with sourcing aluminum but roof flashing from the same HW Box store I purchased the veneer from was just the ticket. Well almost, They were both in rolls.

The original foil backed veneer was about 40 mils thick. So, the new paper backed veneer was about 25 mils and the roof flashing 11 mils, perfect.

The trick is to cut the aluminum exactly as the old veneer. Then glue the veneer to the aluminum which never goes on perfect. But now, the excess veneer can be trimmed to the aluminum. If it weren't for the pieces wanting to curl, the piece should drop exactly into the steel panels. Use contact cement one side only and only on one end. The remainder of the panel can be glued with contact cement the next day after masking the wood from overspray.

Good info, thanks. I'm eventually wanting to install a quilted or flame maple, putting it on aluminum backing should keep it stable and from cracking.

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On 10/9/2020 at 5:22 PM, BulldogDriver said:

Doing the veneer from scratch is my last resort. Doing that isn’t a problem for me but after everyday of working on this since February, I’m ready to look for shortcuts and get it done. I still have this to restore. 

My thoughts exactly, a need to fast track to make up for previous tasks and to move on to a multitude of tasks still to do. However, re-doing a task that did not turn-out satisfactory is more of a time sink.

Pre-cut veneer - fine. Just make sure the pieces fall into position EXACTLY!

Using an adhesive other than the default contact cement which is unforgiving might be better for pre-cut pieces.

I used contact cement semi-wet on one side and in sections followed with my roller used on earlier DynaMat applications. Then face down with weights from my weight rack for a day before continuing.

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Best thing for spreading weight around so it gets into corners, curves, and any OE ribs, beads, etc. Is a pillow case filled with play ground sand.  Just make sure that you have plenty of sand to put a lot of weight everywhere you want it.  Works especially well for gluing the screen printed disc to the top of an air cleaner.

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