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Fuel guage working proper now.. did not have good ground until inst. cluster bolt holes got cleaned out.. when I painted dash, threads got painted too... Oil pressure working. 30 psi on block guage.. Off a little on dash guage, but now I know where 'normal' should be... Checked temp guage on stove top with meat probe in hot water.... 175 was at center mark... Seems accurate...

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While checking wires and function of each, realized I need to glue weather strip on trunk lid... Problem is, forget which way it goes on trunk.. need photo of someones trunk lid showing placement. See photo attached.... Not sure if im on the right edge... Its been 6 years since I removed it, and now that its painted, I dont remember where it goes... Thanks.. John

IMG_20201003_124938555_HDR.jpg

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On 10/3/2020 at 12:07 PM, john hess said:

While checking wires and function of each, realized I need to glue weather strip on trunk lid... Problem is, forget which way it goes on trunk.. need photo of someones trunk lid showing placement. See photo attached.... Not sure if im on the right edge... Its been 6 years since I removed it, and now that its painted, I dont remember where it goes... Thanks.. John

IMG_20201003_124938555_HDR.jpg

 

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Ok, I finally got brake lights working proper. I cleaned the spade fittings with a wire brush and applied dielectric grease... Seems that 60 year old wiring gets an oxidation film on every joint possible when it hasnt been run for years.  Im finding switches work better, lights are brighter too when sockets and bulb ends are polished... Still having issues with turn signals though.... Think I have a bad flasher...... Getting very close to being able to go for ice cream, as this was the goal when I started this project oh so long ago..... John

 

 

 

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Im sure its been brought up before, but have any of you upgraded to led taillights and marker lights.? If so, are they just plug and play or do we need some type of relay ?

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Thanks Gary... guess I will hold off for now.... Still have some issues with grounds I believe.... Brake lights did not activate on first try tonight.. then a few cycles of marker/tail lights they are woking again every time. !!!... Got new headlights.... Installed, working fine.... Waiting for turn signal flasher.... Old one gets hot.... signals dont work......

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I have come to the conclusion that my t/s switch may be the problem. Pricey for a new one, but may remove and try to repair... I stripped back the wires on right side at socket since I have a new pigtail. Wires were discolored as in a short.. If I recall, prior to 1956 they were not required anyway... Gettysburg show only 3 weeks away and Im not quite road ready yet. Got reverse lghts installed and working with temporary ground. Too much paint. Just hate to grind new paint for a grounding point.. 

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Ok... Wiring experts needed.... Took apart my t/s switch... Cleaned contacts...reassembled..  Signals work fine on left, no markers on.. turn markers on, still ok... But.... I am getting feed back through right signal and it operates as a marker light (t/s filament is dim, no flash) Looking at the switch, Am I missing an insulator between front two (short) contacts ?  Looks like that is where my bleed over is happening.... Any thoughts ? I am unwravelling harness slowly,checking for shorts, but maybe this is my problem ??

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Once again I believe its all from a bad ground... New paint and oxidized connections.... Grounded sockets direct to battery, seems to work as intended... Polished brake light switch poles and connectors. Brake lights work better, and brighter....                                              one BIG discovery also... while trying to adjust a new (used) carb wcd719sa, I just could not get engine to run proper.. seems like not all cylinders firing always.... Very inconsistant.... Pulled plugs, some wet, some black sooty, some brown and dry.... Cleaned all plugs, reinstalled, same issue... Old plug wires, solid core, some rusty ends, some oxidized...... Trip to wire wheel, polished all tips and installed wires...... Runs better than it ever has !!! Smooth idle .. instant start of cold engine last 2 days.... Whooda thunk... ?...  2 weeks to Gettysburg !

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2 hours ago, john hess said:

Once again I believe its all from a bad ground... New paint and oxidized connections.... Grounded sockets direct to battery, seems to work as intended... Polished brake light switch poles and connectors. Brake lights work better, and brighter....                                              one BIG discovery also... while trying to adjust a new (used) carb wcd719sa, I just could not get engine to run proper.. seems like not all cylinders firing always.... Very inconsistant.... Pulled plugs, some wet, some black sooty, some brown and dry.... Cleaned all plugs, reinstalled, same issue... Old plug wires, solid core, some rusty ends, some oxidized...... Trip to wire wheel, polished all tips and installed wires...... Runs better than it ever has !!! Smooth idle .. instant start of cold engine last 2 days.... Whooda thunk... ?...  2 weeks to Gettysburg !

chasing down those electrical demons.

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Yes, one at a time.... Learning as you go... Tightened up steering box, greased all joints.. went for test drive on 1/2 mile private rd. Handles like new !!....  Left my helper try it out (wife)... Ran out of gas.. now I know where guage is at when that happens !!!.. She did not find this amusing.... Got 10 gallons in, guage shows 3/4... Once again,now I know where "normal" is...  On to next issue,... Hold my beer. I got this . .

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Still cant sort out t/s issue.. got new napa 535 6v 32cp-max4 flasher... nowhere on box does it say neg or pos ground.. would a pos ground flasher work at all or do I have other issues ?..... One thing tonight happened that puzzles me... Turned on marker lights and pulled right socket out from tail light bezel.... Light stayed on....not grounded... Left side pulled out and goes out.. not grounded, this makes sense... Changed sockets, left to right, no change.. right side still lights, ungrounded..... ??????...... Since turn signals were added at some point after factory built, there is no wiring diagram in shop manual to check.. Is this 535 flasher the wrong one ? What are you guys using ?

 

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Looking good John!

I'm using a Napa 535 6 volt flasher with no issues. A while back Bloo had me do the following and I've had strong signals ever since. Don't know if this would help....I'm weak on electrical. 

 

"If that is what you have, you may need to pop the third terminal out of the flasher socket and ground it instead (ground the wire terminal, not the flasher pin).

 

You may find that the dash indicators are backwards after you do that. You might have to switch the sockets in their holes in the dash."

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Hi Mark.. Im getting closer to the fix. What has surfaced now is this... I recently bought a cheap multi-meter to check continuity..... Well, last night as I was finishing up for the evening, I pulled the ground off the battery as normal lately.... Then, one last check on the wire junction block by the battery, I found that I have VOLTAGE to the junction block !!!! Remember the ground is disconnected.... So, I am sure I have a wire rubbed through on the harness... Will be unwrapping harness tomorrow.... Last thing I wanted to do, but...... Will post results tomorrow.....

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On 10/16/2020 at 6:10 PM, john hess said:

Still cant sort out t/s issue.. got new napa 535 6v 32cp-max4

 

3 hours ago, Summershandy said:

I'm using a Napa 535 6 volt flasher with no issues. A while back Bloo had me do the following and I've had strong signals ever since. Don't know if this would help....I'm weak on electrical. 

 

"If that is what you have, you may need to pop the third terminal out of the flasher socket and ground it instead (ground the wire terminal, not the flasher pin).

 

You may find that the dash indicators are backwards after you do that. You might have to switch the sockets in their holes in the dash."

 

This may be a separate issue (or not, I am having trouble getting my head around it). Originally the indicators on the dash were wired in a screwy way. I believe it was PROBABLY set up so the dash indicators would somehow indicate when a bulb on the outside of the car is bad. It did not work with Summershandy's flasher. If you have the same one, and it sounds like you do, you may have to do the same thing.

 

The symptom (IIRC) is the dash indicators both flash with a signal on. The dash indicators are wired from the front signal circuits (one each, right and left) to a common "ground" through the third pin on the flasher. On any "normal" signal circuit, that wire would go to body/chassis ground, not to the third pin on the flasher. If you are using the same flasher Summershandy is you will need to ground that wire (but not the flasher terminal itself) to get the dash indicators working normally. You will also probably have to switch their positions in the dash. It would probably make sense to go ahead and do this.

 

Usually if you pull a front or rear socket out with something on, both filaments will glow dimly as there is no ground, and the filament that was on has to find a ground somehow through the other filament. I wouldn't be too concerned about that now.

 

I see you rebuilt your switch. Nice! :)  I can't guess if those are supposed to touch without seeing what wires go there. It may be normal.

 

Here is how it works NORMALLY, hopefully to take a little of the mystery out.

 

---6v from the car's electrical system goes to the flasher power terminal. It comes out another terminal and heads to the turn signal switch.

 

At this point I should point out that the third flasher terminal's normal reason to exist is to flash a dash indicator on cars that have only one, not a separate right and left. It will be unused once you disconnect and ground the wire that goes to the dash indicator bulb grounds.

 

---6v also goes from the cars electrical system to to the brake light switch. Switched voltage from the brake light switch then also goes to the turn signal switch. When the signals are off, the signal switch connects both rear turn signals (the bright halves of the dual-filament rear bulbs) to the brake light switch. For now, the brake lights work just as you would expect.

 

---When you turn on a signal, the left signal in this example two things happen:

 

    1) The turn signal switch connects the left front signal bulb and the left dash indicator bulb to the flasher, causing them to flash.

 

    2) The turn signal switch disconnects the left rear signal bulb from the brake lights, and connects it to the flasher, causing it also to flash. This is how the bulb is shared for both functions.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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Thanks Bloo for your explanation... Yes, it all makes sense... However, I believe I have an issue with a short. As mentioned earlier, I clipped the old right front t/s wire. It was discolored as on a shorted,overheated situation at some point... Now with new t/s-marker harness installed both sides, I can make signals work, occasionally... Now, blew fuse on brake light side of harness.. (twice) Unwrapped harness from junction block back to brake switch split connection and that joint looks over heated also.. frustrating..... Somewhere I will find a wire rubbed through or hooked backwards... I will eventually find it..... Signals never worked properly as I remember...                Thanks for all input. I am working through this one issue at a time...... John

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