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I purchased a Buick last week. I was told by the owner it was a 1921 and he had the registration. After getting it home and started poking around it appears it is a 1923 36 according to tag on the firewall. The frame # is 864333and I am not sure where to find the engine # Also this car has one seat as 3 passanger and suicide doors. Any help Thanks Mike

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PA Mike:

 Let me know where you are at in PA as I am in Chambersburg and would love to help.

 The photos I am posting are of a 1923-36 for sale near me several years ago. As to rarity by having "suicide doors" many open and closed cars of the period had rear mounted hinged doors.(The rear doors of my 1937 Buick are "suicide" type. Rear hinged.

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DSCF4232.thumb.JPG.01cd335404a84865377f9beb5a080843.JPGThis was when it sat out on Route 30 The Lincoln Highway. Only 7 miles from my home. I have photos of the interior which was original and in very good condition. It was in really nice condition outside of not being the correct maroon body color, broken ignition switch and reversed changed over carb. A local person around St Thomas PA. bought it. I believe he is just storing it as he has not responded to my calls to see if he needed any help.

 Send me a Personal Message if needed.

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OK I am back looking to pick some brains.. I have located the fire wall tag 2336. I have located the frame tag 864333 and engine tag 858511. As far as the info I have these would be consistent with the 23-36 except motor id# I believe that falls into the 1922 range? I am only basing this on some sheets i copied from different forums? As long as we are at it what motor oil should I use? I am an old street rodder and purchased this car for exactly that but when I got it home I just could not do it, so solid and complete so I am a long way off on the needed knowledge. Any tips on where to buy parts? I am in the need for plug wire along with other things.  I found a guy making me a new water pump/fan belt? Also I bought a battery today and in the past I have had a couple vehicles that had a positive ground from what I have seen this should be a negative ground? Thanks for any answers and help on this subject

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Your gut is right, it’s way too solid and complete....

 

http://www.rjlautofasteners.com/examples.html has your exact spark plug wires (picture from their catalogue downloaded from the above link)


http://northwesternautosupply.com/

has a LOT of other stuff but you have to call because ‘the catalogue is in their heads’ - I kid you not.

 

https://restorationstuff.com/shop/ has a lot too.

 

I’ll let the experts speak to the electrical stuff.

 

Congratulations 

 

 

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I would agree that the tag looks like a 1922 motor.  Basically no changes between the years, except I think 1923 had little covers in the valve cover to help with adding oil, but I am not the expert there.  

 

Oil change frequency is around 500 miles since you have no oil filter.   Any oil you buy is better than anything from the old days.  Personally, look for what is on sale and keep the oil clean.  Use a multigrade.  10-40.   

 

Negative ground.  

 

Below is a link to multiple links.  

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/272878-pre-war-links/?tab=comments#comment-2099140

 

I always attach this thread on new Buick ownership.  

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/346174-22-buick-needs-someone-to-get-it-running/?tab=comments#comment-2062248

 

There is a lot to sort on these cars, but they are great fun and you can preserve a lot of history.  You do have to address the pot metal issues and you will be amazed at how well these run.  We have lots of technical docs to help so ask if a search on the forum does not bring up what you are looking for.

 

Hugh

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Have dealt with RJL in Penfield NY for supplies, I chose to purchase the wires and ends separately and fit them to my 23-6-48 myself, great guy to deal with and talk with, everyone on the forum is very helpful, there are so few of us with 23's 

Jim Milewski BCA 50735, 23 Buick Opera Coupe 6-48 - am located in Central NY 

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Forgot to mention it in the earlier post, Hugh is correct there are three small ports in the valve cover to add oil to lubricate, lookin at your pic - I cant tell if you need a drivers side window crank, may have one 

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Per the book 70 Years of Buick, your car was $1175 new and weighs 2575#
 

7004 produced

 

Note that very few 1923 6 cylinder Buick parts fit the 4 cylinder models or vice versa.  The parts may look close but it’s like everything on your car is 70% the size of the part on the six.  Body, chassis etc. 

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Those are not the tires that came on your car.  Look for a 23" tire or a 32 x 4 1/2".  I think you have an option for a balloon tire as well which will give you a better ride.  Hugh

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Look into a 33 x 5 as well.  Whatever makes a 23" rim (33- 5X2) .  The added sidewall makes a little softer ride.  I personally prefer the look of a larger sidewall tire.   In 33 x 5 you have more tire options as well.   31 x 4 looks to be an obsolete tire size.    Hugh

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Found a little more info for you in the BCA (Buick Club of America) judging manual.   Another verification that the serial number is 1923 and the motor is 1922.   The tire information gets interesting.  The BCA Judging manual lists your tires as being 31 x 4, while in my earlier post (data from the Large Buick Book of parts) list the tire size for your car as 30 x 3 1/2".  30 x 3 1/2" was discontinued long ago.  You have run into the same thing as I have run into.  My 1925 Buick Standard has 22" rims and lists a tire size with BCA judging as 30 x 4.   These smaller cross section tires are no longer available.  Yours in a 3 1/2" and mine in a 4".  My car has a 22" rim, and this is a 1 year only tire size, and now only available in a 6" cross section.  My tires are 22-6.00 which is a 34 x 6 tire.  So for you to be closest to original, a 31 x 4 is the tire, but larger cross sections will work as well.  31 x 4 does not look to be obsolete.  

 

Here is a link to a 31 x 4 tire.  https://www.universaltire.com/universal-brand-tires/high-pressure-straight-sided/31-x-4-universal-ribbed-blackwall.html

 

Hugh

   

 

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

Mike, 

   Pulling the rear hub is addressed at the end of these 4 pages.  I am going to post all of this information as it will help you with putting the hub back together.   FYI Larry DiBarry just made a batch of 7/8" tab washers for the rear wheel nuts.  I would suggest that you get a few new and a spare while they are available   Hugh

 

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