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Hi All,   Cleaned up around the buildings,  looks much better.


Approaching from the driveway.



View from the street.




View from the house.





As soon as the next day over 50 degrees hits and it is not raining I will seal the floor. 


Thanks for viewing.  Jim


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If a garage door is adjusted properly,  the door can be raised fairly easily by a person..... from the middle or one end. 

With that in mind,   my 16' door has a 1/2 hp opener mounted on the end of the door.    The motor is at the top and 

I made a bracket that attaches to the cross brace of the second section.

I have a 12 ft ceiling because I have a lift and the door must go up about 4 feet above the door opening before it turns.

It has been in place 20 years and works fine.

I could not find a picture of your inside,  but you should be able to use a conventional opener and mount it with the path of the door track and it would work. 

Not great photos of the connection at the door....  I added the gas shock last year and it takes some of the fine adjustment out of the door when it closes

opener III.jpg

opener IV.jpg

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This picture may or may not help...... because detail is hard to see. 

The opener is mounted on the side wall at the end of the door.    The motor is at the top and in the picture the motor cover is off. 

I had to make the bracket that mounts on the door.. the opener attaches to the second section from the bottom (normal attachment would be at the top center)

If I can find time today I will make a sketch that may make more sense. 


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A few pics on the inside.


here is the door with the special track to follow the scissor trusses.  the truss is a 5/12 pitch at the roof,  but a 3/12

pitch at the ceiling.




The conventional door with a automatic opener.




Floor sealer is fully dried.  It takes about 24 hours.  Very happy with the outcome. 





The first electrical outlet will be for the door opener.  The extension cord is a little tacky.


Thanks for viewing.   Jim

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Did some work in the garage these past few days. I convinced Holly it was too nice outside to be doing indoor house projects.


Put up drywall on the far right and one sheet on the back wall to cover the insulation.




And 2 sheets on the front wall again to cover the insulation that is up.   For a total of 10 sheets of drywall.

I used 1/2" ultra light.  It maybe ultra light but a 67 years old I do need help.  And Holly was right there with me.





Started on the shelving.   Made two 12 foot sections.  they are 2 foot wide.  Still need to add the sheeting  and  the center uprights. 




Thanks for viewing.  Will update as I do more.     Jim

Edited by ILIKECARS53 (see edit history)
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I agree with Ben......great job and well planned.  

On your "unconventional" garage door........I think a standard garage door opener will work fine.   Mount it

on the same angle (3/12) as the upper track,  it appears that it will need to be between the ceiling truss, but unless you were going to drywall the ceiling, nothing

more than a 2 x4 for a motor mount will be needed.    

The upper door guide roller is positioned almost identical to your conventional door,  so when it starts to open the pull angle will be even less than a conventional 


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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello all.   Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving.   It has been about 2 weeks from the last update.  Had been working in the house getting it ready for Thanksgiving. Although it was just me and Holly we wanted to eat in the dining room for the holiday.  Needed to finish the moulding, put up a new ceiling light, et etc. , small things that take time.




Finished the insulation and drywall on the back wall.






All the wooden shelving is finished.  Plus all the insulation and drywall on the front wall  and  in between the doors is complete.




A full wall of peg board is planned for the common wall.






Thanks for viewing.  Jim

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Looks great. I always build my own wooden shelving, as most of my Pierce Arrow stuff will crush and collapse 90 percent of the shelving you can buy.......unless it’s a pallet rack. Only thing wrong with this garage is it’s not attached to my place! 👍👍👍

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Thanks Ed.  The shelving will be used for household items. They are overkill for that purpose but wanted them to last.  I will be making more for all the extra auto parts, tools   etc etc.      Plus I do have some store bought units for the lighter stuff.     Thanks  Jim

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I see you have an exposed ceiling in the shelving area. What I have done is "hang" the 2x4 for uprights from the rafters and do not run them to the floor. The shelves are still fastened to the wall but this frees up the floor for sweeping and setting items on the floor with no obstructions.

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Dave,  I still have more shelves to build and will look into your suggestion.   


I put up the peg board on the common wall.  I picked up the peg board at the local KMART when they were closing for a $1.00 each.  They are about 29" x 47" and 1/4" thick.   I bought 20 panels and used 8 on the wall.


Here is a pic of the installed peg board.  I could not resist starting to put some items on it.




Thanks for viewing   Jim

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Hi Lamar,  I am undecided about peg board over the workbench.  I have a workbench in the original garage and plan on moving it over to the addition. It is 36" deep and it is hard to reach the back wall.  If I cut it down to 30" it maybe better, not sure yet.   Thanks  Jim

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  • 2 months later...

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