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1950 buick torque tube.


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Hello. I own a 1950 Buick super with dyna flow drive and Im replacing the torque tube seals front and back. Removed the tube from torque ball and there is six bolts holding the tube to ball but the gasket that goes around the front only has five holes why is this. That's the only gasket I have seen for it. On the rear I'm also replacing the rear pinion seal. From what I see there is supposed to be a gasket around the flange bolt holes an inner cork gasket and a seal around the dented nut that holds the shaft in place. Not sure where to find the cork gasket but have the pinion seal and most other gaskets to finish the job. Thanks

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Small world. I'm a subscriber to del siegmund so far my car has had most of those problems haha. Already delt with the heat riser, all vacuum lines,new exhaust, radiator redone, new coolant hoses,water pump I'm only 25 but love this old car. It's definitely different.

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I am also working my way through almost all the same issues as Del but on a 1955 Buick Special.  It was really useful seeing him work on the torque tube of his car, made me more confident about when I dive into the torque tube.

 

Mark

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I ordered the plastic torque ball boot, rear pinion oil seal and cork gasket to fix my leaks. I'll also change the rear dif fluid with 80w gear oil I think it has mixed with trans fluid by now. Also have a door jamb switch and extra key blanks coming. I have put 500 miles on the car but stopped since the leak got worse. Anyone have any problems with their heater valve leaking coolant inside the car. The rod with the knob that says warmer in the dash.

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42 minutes ago, Mr. Reed said:

I ordered the plastic torque ball boot, rear pinion oil seal and cork gasket to fix my leaks. I'll also change the rear dif fluid with 80w gear oil I think it has mixed with trans fluid by now. Also have a door jamb switch and extra key blanks coming. I have put 500 miles on the car but stopped since the leak got worse. Anyone have any problems with their heater valve leaking coolant inside the car. The rod with the knob that says warmer in the dash.

Fix the leak at the torque ball to torque tube interface, drill a hole in the bottom of the torque tube (tap and install a machine screw)  at the rear to drain or monitor fluid in the torque tube, change the rear gear oil.  Do not try to replace the pinion seal unless you have a reason to service bearings or gears:  the whole rear needs to be disassembled.  Even with no pinion seal the gear lube will find a level in the torque tube below the driveshaft.  Any external leaks can be addressed with a bead of RTV after cleaning.  The original lube was 90 weight;  I use 85w-140 with good results.

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1 hour ago, Mr. Reed said:

From what I read there is a seal just beside that dented in nut.

Sure, but everything needs to come out the rear...and the driveshaft separated from the pinion.  Fix the tranny leak into the torque tube and any gear oil leakage is easy to fix.

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Does anyone know where to find the gasket that goes on the air cleaner where the oil bowl screws to the main part if the air cleaner. I unscrewed the bowl and there is a gasket that mates it to the metal element. I've looked online but can't seem to find one. Much appreciated.

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When I removed my torque ball there was only a white shim on the back of the inner retainer. I'm not sure how many shims to install that came with the kit. I was going to put the black shim first than the inner retainer than the white one and the outer retainer than torque ball and the boot to secure the ball. Just not sure how many shims to use in what order because my original things only had that white one.

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Mr Reed!   Stop!   

  Have you seen a shop manual?  The directions are therein.   You must, according to BUICK, install shims and measure the pull needed to move the ball. Too tight? Add another. Too loose? Remove one. They are different thickness.  PLEASE obtain and read a Manual, or you will probably be disappointed.

 

  Ben

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My car is unrestored. It has patina but was undercoated from new. No floor or rocker rot. I got it from huntington wva. It also has plaid seat covers dealer installed over the gray cloth. I would like to show you guys what it looks like can you post pics here?

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As M1842 mentioned above, check out the Buick 1950 Buick Roadmaster series Part 21 through 24 You tube videos. They show in perfect detail what to expect when opening up the drivetrain, torque tube affair. The book can be confusing reading unless seen first, for me anyway.

I have a 1951 Buick Super and am sure it is basically similar to the 1950 models. I'm waiting for a leak before I pull mine apart.

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I have seen the videos. They are awesome. I have to watch them a few times and even while I'm doing things too. The car stayed in the same family since new but the grandson of the original owner sent it to the junkyard last year and the guy I bought it froms friend bought it from the auto wreckers. It sat there for two weeks than was purchased. I'm glad it was saved and I put it on the road again.

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Yes. I saw it on marketplace. I drove 5 hours to go look at it. The seller had put new plugs and wires and supposedly rebuilt the fuel pump and had the carb rebuilt. He jumped the car with a 12 vt pack and it wouldn't start after that and he didn't want to mess with it anymore and he said it just wasn't his type of car anyway. I want to know how or if I can post a pic of the car so you guys can see it.

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I simply click and drag a photo from my Photo app on my Mac directly into the reply field here that says "Drag files here..." No other steps needed and it seems to work. For some reason this photo of my rear torque tube's  "tranny fluid inspection screw"  is upside down. I drilled and tapped this today after reading how important it can be. No red or brown fluid ran out. The seals must be working. Yay !

 

IMG_1947.jpeg

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During the coming winter I was thinking of purchasing a wiring harness for the buick. I only need to do the wires under the hood most are fraying. It might be more trouble than its worth😬. I definitely do not want to mess with the dash or remove the headliner to rewire that it is fine. Has anyone else had this dilemma?

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Most of the wiring under the hood suffers from the heat from the engine and radiator.  You can make your own harness by purchasing the correct color coded wire, connectors such as spade lugs, rubber covers to go over the connectors and the correct black tape or loom cover if you are good at soldering.  Even the connector strips for the headlight/park lights are reproduced.  Most likely the splices of the under hood wiring harness is along the inner fender on the drivers side.  I am not sure if you can purchase just the under hood wiring harness. 

The wiring under the instrument panel may be in good condition but you should check. 

Joe

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