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"Unbadging" a clone GS?

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I saw this car the other day online which I really like (other than the fact that it seems to be overpriced).




My biggest problem (other than the price) is that it is not a GS.  Is there any real way to remove the GS markings or is the damage already done to the sheetmetal and no great way to repair?


I believe this maybe the same car that was looked at prior when kReed was looking for a 68 GS.  I love the color, bucket seats, factory AC, etc.  Just not the faux GS.



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Most likely holes were drilled in the fenders for the emblems unless someone ground the studs off and used adhesive to attach them. In the one pic it almost looks like thats what was done but can't be sure. The ones on the fenders look good so I'd just leave them if holes were drilled. Most people who see it have no clue what a GS is anyway. The GS emblem on the grill just doesn't belong and looks odd. That should be an easy removal. 

FYI the vinyl top should not have a seam down the middle. I'm sure you saw it but very poorly done door seals. These are available with molded ends and not a bad job to do right. You'd definitely want to see this car in person. Looks pretty nice in pics and could be a decent car but......

Edited by JZRIV (see edit history)
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Definitely a poser.


Paint overspray in the wheel house. Trunk paint out of the can nilly willy all over the place. Crooked GS badges.


The console wood appears to have two layers of wood? I'll sell ya mine.


What a flipper. 


You can look in the fender wells for the drill burrs with a borescope. 


Run Luke, run!



Edited by PWB (see edit history)
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I bought my 63 long distance from dealer. Had the car inspected by an inspection company which was a waste of money. Having done deferred maintenance upgrades and ongoing maintenance on my 63 you can spend money, maybe a lot to some a little to others. 
The little things can drive you crazy unless you don’t care. I don’t care the lighter doesn’t work, but all the lights in the cabin do work. Speedo had to be fixed for accurate mph. All suspension items replaced including lower ball joints and axle seals replaced. Shocks, sway bars, rebuilt steering box, period correct complete upholstery, carpet, and all new weather stripping, radiator, regulator, alternator, battery, a tiny bit of rust repair, decals, starter rebuild, new HD Selinoid, brake lines, brake cylinders, dual master brake cylinder. Radio tuned, new trunk kit, ALL NEW AC COMPONENTS. Engine rebuilt because the engine is old and I want a reliable engine I can drive where I want. Think long and hard about your vision for you and the car. I do as much work as I can on my car, but somethings I leave to the real pros to do. If you take anything away from these comments GO LOOK AT THE CAR yourself. Use your own inspection check list. With a list if items you want the way you want them puts you in a good negotiation position. Go in with an offer, when it is time to make offer after your inspection. Even if he laughs at your offer you can respond with a laugh at his asking price. Go in at a price good enough he can pull you up a bit.,Let him pull you up on your price instead of you pulling him down. Yeah, the grind can be easier when you are armed with real information about how much the car needs to be repaired. You’ll be doing yourself a favor.


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Here's hoping we were a postive experience for you.   I wouldn't just dis-regard it I would make a resonable offer & see what they say.  

Who knows afer 6 months to a year you may get a call out of the blue & ask if the offer still stands. Have had it happen before.

Also IF you see something advertised try calling 6 months to a year later to see IF it may still be available as you never know. They may have gotten tired of it sitting & more willing to let it go.


Tom T.

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