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Removing transmission


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You basically have to detach everything holding the rear axle in place and pull it back to get the torque tube out of the back of the transmission before you can replace the seals on the torque ball.  I had a link to a great procedural checklist that someone else had posted in the past, but when I tried to pull it up just now I got an error message.  This might have something to do with the new reshuffling of the forums on this site.  I will look for it.

 

However, I DO have a link to my thread where I go through the replacement of the torque ball seals.  (Click on the arrow in the top right hand corner.)  I did it with the transmission out of the car, but you could do it without removing the transmission.  However, since you have to pull the rear end back anyway, I think you might just find it easier to go ahead and pull the transmission so you can check the front and rear bearings while you're at it.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

Complicated and simple at the same time.  The entire rear end/torque tube must be moved back or removed. Do you have a shop manual?  

 

  Ben

Ugh I was afraid you were going to say that. Yes I do. I will have to take a look

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1 hour ago, neil morse said:

You basically have to detach everything holding the rear axle in place and pull it back to get the torque tube out of the back of the transmission before you can replace the seals on the torque ball.  I had a link to a great procedural checklist that someone else had posted in the past, but when I tried to pull it up just now I got an error message.  This might have something to do with the new reshuffling of the forums on this site.  I will look for it.

 

However, I DO have a link to my thread where I go through the replacement of the torque ball seals.  (Click on the arrow in the top right hand corner.)  I did it with the transmission out of the car, but you could do it without removing the transmission.  However, since you have to pull the rear end back anyway, I think you might just find it easier to go ahead and pull the transmission so you can check the front and rear bearings while you're at it.

 

 

Awesome. Thank you!

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I plan to go through the entire thing with new gaskets. This thing is 79yrs old and everything is original. She’s still holding on at 58k miles but anything that holds liquids leaks liquid. Lol. If headlights had fluid they would leak too. 

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14 hours ago, Turbosl2 said:

I plan to go through the entire thing with new gaskets. This thing is 79yrs old and everything is original. She’s still holding on at 58k miles but anything that holds liquids leaks liquid. Lol. If headlights had fluid they would leak too. 

 

 Unless leaking so badly you can't keep fluids in, don't panic.  Cars of that era LEAKED.  An old saying " if it is not leaking it is empty" was/is pretty accurate.  You will never stop all the leaks. Believe me, I have tried.

 

  Ben

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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 Unless leaking so badly you can't keep fluids in, don't panic.  Cars of that era LEAKED.  An old saying " if it is not leaking it is empty" was/is pretty accurate.  You will never stop all the leaks. Believe me, I have tried.

 

  Ben

Lol oh I am aware. It’s all pretty significant though. In 4 months everything is empty in the trans and shocks

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I just resealed mine and found it easy to do on the bench.  The most difficult seal to replace with the transmission in the car might be the selector shaft seal.  You have to pull the shaft (I did anyway) to remove the old seal.   All the other work should be accessible from under the car.  I built wide wood blocks to place under the front tires for lift then have the 12 tom HF jack stands under the frame just ahead of the rear axle.  This setup gave me about 30 inches clear space under the car to shuffle around.  I wish I had a lift!

 

If you pull the transmission, you might just attempt to replace the rear engine seal.  But, I've got to tell you that I've been appropriately warned of the slippery slope when going after just one more repair.  

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In my opinion, replacing the rear engine seal, with the engine in the car, is the most difficult job to do on an automobile. Buicks are even worse. A super PITA job, if you can even do it. My advise is to leave that alone unless the engine is out of the car.

Also, it is possible to get the trans so it doesnt leak - I have done it.

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If you do roll the rear end assembly back using a pair of bare rims (without tires) gives you a little more room. You can use a floor jack under the center of the rear end to align things.

Here it is rolling under on bare rims.

013.thumb.JPG.2f19a16ddff23852783ff0f4f4711157.JPG

 

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11 hours ago, kgreen said:

I just resealed mine and found it easy to do on the bench.  The most difficult seal to replace with the transmission in the car might be the selector shaft seal.  You have to pull the shaft (I did anyway) to remove the old seal.   All the other work should be accessible from under the car.  I built wide wood blocks to place under the front tires for lift then have the 12 tom HF jack stands under the frame just ahead of the rear axle.  This setup gave me about 30 inches clear space under the car to shuffle around.  I wish I had a lift!

 

If you pull the transmission, you might just attempt to replace the rear engine seal.  But, I've got to tell you that I've been appropriately warned of the slippery slope when going after just one more repair.  

I do have a lift but if I have to slide the entire rear end back and out it may not prove to be very useful to walk under to work...maybe to go up and down a tad. I had this problem with the gas tank. A transmission jack would had helped there but I don’t have one so I spent most of my time on my back on the concrete anyway

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16 hours ago, DonMicheletti said:

In my opinion, replacing the rear engine seal, with the engine in the car, is the most difficult job to do on an automobile. Buicks are even worse. A super PITA job, if you can even do it. My advise is to leave that alone unless the engine is out of the car.

I'll second that!  I pulled the engine after several attempts at getting a new seal in place with the engine in the car.  Fortunately I enjoyed the work, got to clean up the engine and check internal wear.  

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My picture shows us under the car supported by jack stands. Actually, after the rear end assembly was rolled under the car we put a stack of inflated wheels and tires under the rear bumper as a second support. Fout of them.

 

046a.thumb.jpg.0ee00c5f3ed4b3fb8c386ba68c04e08b.jpg

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On my car, we used a similar idea to what Ken suggests.  We had ramps in front and jack stands under the frame in front of the rear axle.  We lifted the car high enough so the rear tires were just touching the floor, then used a come-along to roll the rear axle back on the tires just enough to get the torque tube out.  You can push the torque tube up above the back of the transmission and more-or-less out of the way after you get it out.

 

trans_job.thumb.jpg.b8b85d635f72f568982029d1d80352bd.jpg

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