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Posted (edited)

When I first dropped the oil pan and found this piece of metal....my heart sank.  Then I discovered it was a piece of the oil pump casing!  Culprit of low oil pressure found. 20210313_122151.thumb.jpg.37619e0301c82b76e943f1d8db7732c9.jpg

Drilled and tapped a new hole for the new oil pump, bolted on a GS rear sump pickup, and capped the old vacuum line port.

I did pull one main cap while I was in there just to see....  Looks like 40k more miles to me!20210313_122938.thumb.jpg.2e38a7db60ff935b157c4538d454ecdc.jpg

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

After last week's brake issue I ordered the m/c rebuild kit.  Pulled the m/c (holy pain in the @$$) and it is too pitted. Instead of waiting for resleeve I've ordered a rebuilt unit.  Hoping to have it all together for a show April 10th. For now she waits....

20210321_181912.thumb.jpg.7274b972efaa08c6e5bfe86675129b9f.jpg

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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16 minutes ago, Smartin said:

So what was your method of removing the nut from hell on the interior side of the firewall?😀

Well for everyone that said channel locks...  mine are not rubber so I have no clue how to get them in there.  I got a long chisel and tapped the nut around until it was loose enough to turn by hand (my hand cramped a couple times mind you).  Dreading reassembly, especially getting the pin back in the pedal connection!

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  • 2 weeks later...

If it ain't broke....don't fix it.  My car is down for another week now.  I figures with the condition of the radiator hoses and thermostat housing surely I needed a new water pump.  Ordered a new one, mailed a core I had.  Broke two bolts off in the timing cover...fixed that.  New pump and new radiator hoses on only to find a bolt hole in the pulley flange stripped on the pump

  !#;$&$:$!!!😠😡. Take pump off. Send it back..ugh!

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On 4/9/2021 at 9:15 AM, NC-car-guy said:

If it ain't broke....don't fix it.  My car is down for another week now.  I figures with the condition of the radiator hoses and thermostat housing surely I needed a new water pump.  Ordered a new one, mailed a core I had.  Broke two bolts off in the timing cover...fixed that.  New pump and new radiator hoses on only to find a bolt hole in the pulley flange stripped on the pump

  !#;$&$:$!!!😠😡. Take pump off. Send it back..ugh!

Sent the pump back... it returned a week later unrepaired so I've sent it back again. 😡😡infuriating!!Last night I glued a used pump on with RTV.  We'll see if it holds for good guys this weekend!  

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On 4/21/2021 at 9:20 AM, NC-car-guy said:

Sent the pump back... it returned a week later unrepaired so I've sent it back again. 😡😡infuriating!!Last night I glued a used pump on with RTV.  We'll see if it holds for good guys this weekend!  

 

Wow!  That truly bites!  How did the old pump work?  

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Posted (edited)

As in 25 years I've never been a victim of vapor lock.... I got my turn yesterday. That's what I get for being lazy. When I installed the EFI I left the mechanical pump as my "scavenger" and put the electric pump after it on the fender.  I've now ordered hard line to replumb the fuel system, and I'll move the electric fuel pump back near the tank and delete the mechanical one. 😒

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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Oh boy. Have you insulated the fuel line from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump? Especially alongside the exhaust manifold?

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On 4/29/2021 at 8:38 AM, NC-car-guy said:

As in 25 years I've never been a victim of vapor lock.... I got my turn yesterday. That's what I get for being lazy. When I installed the EFI I left the mechanical pump as my "scavenger" and put the electric pump after it on the fender.  I've now ordered hard line to replumb the fuel system, and I'll move the electric fuel pump back near the tank and delete the mechanical one. 😒

 

 Yep.  The electric pump needs to be as close to the tank as possible and lower than tank. Mine is mounted on the frame just in front of the kick up for the rear axle.  I mounted mine, after tiring if the noise, using an exhaust clamp. The one with a metal strap with bolt holes, a piece of "belting" between it and the clamp, which is holding the pump.  Absolutely no sound.

 

  Ben

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1 hour ago, Smartin said:

Those pumps don't like to "pull" fuel...so you're on the right track by getting it as close to the tank as possible.

Which is why I left the mechanical pump in to do the pulling, but clearly not sufficient

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Put 400 miles on this weekend.  By the time I got home I have an exhaust leak and a stumble....  Ugh.  Hoping the stumble is just the primary fuel filter (was on the car when I got it).  I'll replace it when I do the fuel lines and move the pump in the coming weeks. *fingers crossed*

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  • 2 weeks later...

Primary fuel filter replaced.  Cut the old one open, cruddy inside so definitely needed replacing.  The exhaust leak was where a nut fell off the flange at the donut gasket.  Of course this was on the side with the o2 sensor, so may have been the reason for stumbling?   Car has a photo shoot tomorrow.  This weekend I'll start moving the fuel pump.

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Posted (edited)

For good or bad...Ive been driving my car daily this week as I sold my F150.  I'm enjoying the low stress commute. Aside from wondering when it might break down, there's no giant Fob in my pocket to accidentally activate the alarm, no display fussing about various items, no fly by wire delay, no automatically locked doors, etc...  Just lower stress cruisin' to the radio.

Edited by NC-car-guy (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

While I'm loving driving my old buick and I can live without a/c... the old girl is not handling it very well I live about 10 miles from downtown and in city traffic by the time I get downtown she's at 220 even with the heat running full blast cooking me. Water pump is fine. 160 thermostat... She'll do 75mph all day but not city driving. I am having a three core aluminum radiator made by champion hopefully that will help.

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3 minutes ago, Caballero2 said:

Here is what I did to a '57.

The thermal lock-up helps at stop lights, keeps the engine below 200 for greater periods and on hard runs in 100 degree temps.

Fan Clutch Thermal.jpg

What car did you order that fan for or just found a generic on with similar measurement?

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On 7/9/2021 at 6:09 AM, NC-car-guy said:

What car did you order that fan for or just found a generic on with similar measurement?

This is a quote from a '57 guy with factory AC. It was from a '63 LeSabre with factory Air and is an after market clutch from Napa.

 

I noticed the fan was essentially free-wheeling yesterday after I shut the engine off, so I took your good advice and upgraded the clutch from a 1963 Lesabre. The new clutch moves a lot more air at idle. One small difference is that the old clutch has four fine thread studs to mount the fan. The new clutch takes four coarse thread bolts with lock washers. 

 

Pull up this AACA Forum page #7, and thumb through.  I think it may be helpful.  Dan

 

Edited by Caballero2 (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...
11 hours ago, EmTee said:

Aw, c' mon -- OPEN it!!!  :rolleyes:

It'll be next weekend before I get to it.  Replace radiator, water pump, and fan and fix the dang horn button  Then back to cruising.  AC is the winter project.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The first generation Rivieras (63-65) had a radiator mount that bolted to the core support. No bolts or flanges on or around the radiator. The top mount had rubber insulators that over the top of the tank to hold the radiator in place.  The same mount had the mount for the shroud.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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