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1914 Studebaker SC-4 Clutch Basket Removal

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Hello All,


I'm going through and refreshing my engine a bit (cleaning years of crud off of it), and working on fixing the crack in the exhaust manifold that makes me feel extra groovy whenever I drive the car (love un-burned hydrocarbons¬†ūüėĀ).


As part of the process, since I have the engine out, I figured I'd reline the leather in the clutch. I have no idea of the age of the leather, but it is extremely hard and could use replacing.


I'm working on removing the clutch basket, and I've hit a bit of a roadblock, and I am hopeful someone who has done this before can provide guidance to light the way. 


The cross section in the manual doesn't exactly match the hardware that is on my car, not surprising, but leaves me a bit in a lurch. I see the large nut which holds the bearing against the spring for reaction when the pedal is depressed.




When I remove the nut, the race and bearing slide back under force from the spring, then the outer bearing race runs into the tabs for the universal joint, which makes sense from the cross section picture.




Where I am a bit stuck is now that the nut is off and the race has released some of the force in the spring, I do not see a way for the basket to come off. I see a pin in a groove through the threaded rod that the nut that held the race threaded onto. There is no clear way that I can see for this pin to be removed:




I have tried pull the pin to the side and it hits the spring and it appears fairly hard and inflexible. I don't necessarily want to cut it before getting some feedback, and I'm no entirely certain this would allow the basket to slide off.


The other difference from the cross section (the first being the pin) is that my clutch does not have the nuts present that would allow the outer can to come off:




I'm not necessarily a big fan of trying this anyways, since it seems to me that the energy of the spring would be released in a less than graceful fashion, and frankly I cannot get a tool in to the other side to remove the bolts.


Any thoughts or guidance from the greater community?


Thanks for reading,


Rusty Berg

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Hi Rusty

My car is an unrestored SD4 built in Walkerville Ontario. understand what 100 years of crud is like. 

When you removed the nut it should have taken the all the spring tension off. On my SD 4 the pin was difficult to remove the first time but did come out. There is just enough room to get the pin out.  The threaded shaft is also  threaded into the back of the crankshaft. If you think there is still some spring tension on it you could try  to compress the collar enough to turn the threaded shaft enough to remove the tension.  It may have been pressurized a bit by pushing in the collar and turning the threaded shaft with the pin installed.

The replacement leather for you clutch should be 3/16 of an inch. I tried 1/4 inch and it pushed the driveshaft back far enough into the transmission cup that the clutch would not fully release. You may be able to soften your leather with neets foot oil.

My care sat for 60 years, I oiled it well and drove a lot for  it for 8 years. I changed it because I was afraid it may leave me stranded, it was still working fine. Someone had cut long cotter keys at the eye and  inserted them between the facing and the cone to make of for wear. the leather was oft and stong when i removed it.  

I also changed my front you joint to a modern type in the existing  hardware. See previous posting 

I also found some square rear trunion in  a 1917 parts car that have the removed all of the play out out my rear driveshaft to transmission connection. see previous posting

have fun


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Hi Pat (Studenut1915)


Thanks to your guidance, I was able to get the clutch basket off! You're right that it is a very tight fit to get the pin out, but with a bit of fighting and swearing (the best lubricant if you will...) it slipped out. I'm not certain what thickness of leather is in there, but I will definitely take your advice into mind. Also, luckily for me, the u-joint bushings and trunnions for my driveshaft are in great shape, but I'll keep it mind that the u-joint can be replaced with a modern equivalent.


Thanks again,





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I would really love to see pictures of the rest of your u-joint parts. I have a 1913 SA-25 with a very similar looking clutch, and a u-joint that is probably bad. I have not yet disassembled to look, but I'll bet it is the same design.

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